If you only saw 1 photo, you'd think Balos Beach was in the Caribbean. But this turquoise paradise belongs to Crete, the largest Greek island.
The beauty of its lagoons is, quite simply, unique.
Want to discover them? Keep reading.
Balos Beach
As you approach the viewpoint, two turquoise water lagoons will appear in front of you, straight out of a Caribbean postcard. Both are separated by a stretch of fine sand, the only link connecting the islet of Tigani to the Gramvousa peninsula.
And when you head down to the shore, you'll realize that the famous Elafonisi isn't the only pink beach in Crete.
To spend the day, you can rent one of the loungers (umbrella + 2 sunbeds for €6 in September 2103), or spread out your towel wherever you like. In case you're interested, the far ends are the quietest spots.
Whatever you decide, don't limit yourself to exploring just one area. Every single corner of Balos is worth discovering.
My advice?
Bring few valuables and a dry bag that fits them all. That way, you can leave the rest (clothes, towels, food…) at your 'base camp' and explore the area without worrying about losing your belongings.
The left side of the beach has barely a hand's depth of water, making it a great spot for swimming with little kids, playing beach paddle ball, or striking a beached mermaid pose (I'm quite fond of you, I'm not going to torture you with those pictures, don't worry). 😉
The right lagoon, however, is a bit deeper, which lets you swim and enjoy its 'Caribbean' waters.
Right there was where the little fish you see in the photo earned the nickname Psycho fish. If you stand still for more than 30 seconds and have one of these circling around, get ready to feel a nip on your legs as it tries to 'clean' off your impurities.
I had no idea removing 'dead skin' hurt so much…
Little Psycho was so focused on his job that he spent most of the day chasing us while we swam, waiting for any distraction to get right down to 'nibbling' business. 🙂
How to get there
Access by road
There is an unpaved road, made of reddish dirt and gravel, that leads from near Kaliviani and the port of Kissamos to Balos Beach (or almost).
At the start, you have to pay the nature park entrance fee (€1 per person in 2013).
Even though the drive is only 7.8 km, the terrain conditions mean it will take you about 30 minutes to complete.
But if you love wildlife, speed won't be an issue. Dozens of goats dot the landscape and will even walk up to your window if you call them over. They're used to tourists feeding them.
At the end of the route is the parking area, where spots fill up quickly during peak season. So, you might see a line of cars parked on the "shoulder" as you approach your destination.
From the parking lot, you have 1.2 km on foot to Balos Beach and, while it's possible to walk that distance in flip-flops, your best bet is sneakers.
The first stretch is easy and barely steep. Shortly after, you reach a viewpoint with one of Crete's most beautiful scenes: the Balos lagoons.
From there, the trail gets a bit demanding, rocky and steep downhill (or uphill on the way back). Nothing that a pair of shoes with decent ankle support can't handle. 😉
Boat trip
From the port of Kissamos, one or several boats depart daily (depending on the season) towards the Gramvousa peninsula.
If you join one of these tours, you'll have the chance to visit Imeri Gramvousa Island and the ruins of its Venetian castle, in addition to spending about 3 hours at Balos Beach.
In late September 2013, this boat arrived at the lagoons around 2:00 PM and departed again at 5:00 PM.
Where to sleep
Among all the accommodations near Balos (Kissamos), we stayed at 2 of them for several days:
- At Anavaloussa Apartments (Viglia Kalyvianis), we got a small 2-level studio for €33/night, 2 people. It had a terrace and a pool, plus a small beach right in front of the hotel. The only downside was that the bathroom floor got way too wet when you showered. The breakfast was very simple and cost €1.5 extra. But what more could you ask for at that price?
- At Balos Beach Hotel we got huge rooms overlooking the pool for €35/night, 2 people. It also has a pool and is on the way to Balos Beach, literally. You couldn't be any closer. The downside is that breakfast cost €7 and, while it was more complete than the previous one, it wasn't anything to write home about either (the selection improved if you arrived first thing in the morning).
When I go back (because I will go back…), I'll most likely choose the Balos Beach Hotel again, both for its location and for the comfort and spaciousness of the room itself.
Where to Eat
If there is one restaurant you need to try once in your life (yes, need is the right verb here, no exaggeration), it's this one:
Gramvousa (or Gramboussa) Restaurant
Well, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit, alright… But just remembering it makes my mouth water.
It's located in Kalyviani, 1 km (a 2-minute drive) from the Balos Beach Hotel, and rather than by its sign (which you won't understand unless you know Greek), you'll recognize it by its back garden with views dotted with trees and tables.
It has very affordable prices. Dinner for 2 people never cost us more than €28. And we were there for a total of 6 nights!
Why so many? Because the flavor of their dishes was OUTSTANDING.
I recommend trying the boureki (baked vegetables with a blend of local cheeses), the moussaka, the suckling pig, the rabbit in wine, and above all, the baked honey lamb.
On the tables, you'll find a complimentary bottle of tap water (it's totally safe to drink) and a small bottle of raki, the Greek grape-based digestif produced right in Crete. I recommend saving it for the end of dinner. 😉
For dessert, you can pick whichever piece you fancy from a table with a wide variety of seasonal fruits or ask for something sweet (off-menu). On one of the nights we spent there, we tried some delicious fried milk rolls with honey.
When to go
In high season (July and August), parking spots fill up quickly, so it is best to arrive first thing in the morning to get a spot close to the trail.
We visited Crete in late September/early October 2013, when there were hardly any tourists left, so there was no need to wake up super early.
Useful links
- Boat tours from the port of Kissamos.
- Anavaloussa Apartments.
- Balos Beach hotel.
- Other hotel deals near Balos.
- Flights to Crete: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
And here you can check out the rest of my trip to Crete:
- The truth about Elafonisi: Crete's most famous pink beach.
- E4 route between Paleochora and Sougia: a coastal trek.
- Trekking through the Samaria Gorge.
What else do you need to know about Crete and Balos Beach?
Leave your questions in the comments and I will be happy to help you with whatever I can. 🙂