If you saw just one photo, you'd think Balos Beach was in the Caribbean. But this turquoise paradise is actually part of Crete, the largest Greek island.
The beauty of its lagoons is, quite simply, unique.
Want to find out more? Keep reading.
Balos Beach
As you approach the lookout point, two turquoise lagoons will appear before you, as if taken from a Caribbean postcard. The two are separated by a strip of fine sand, the only link between the islet of Tigani and the Gramvousa Peninsula.
And when you make your way down to the shore, you'll realize that the famous Elafonisi isn't the only pink beach in Crete.
To spend the day, you can rent one of the lounge chairs (one umbrella and two lounge chairs for €6 in September 2103), or spread out your towel wherever you like. In case you're interested, the far ends are the quietest spots.
Whatever you decide, don't limit yourself to exploring just one area. It's worth discovering every corner of Balos.
My advice?
Bring only a few valuables and a waterproof bag big enough to hold them all. That way, you can leave the rest (clothes, towels, food, etc.) at your “base camp” and explore the area without worrying about losing your belongings.
The left side of the beach has water that’s barely a span deep, making it a great spot for swimming with small children, playing with sand shovels, or posing like a beached mermaid ( I care about you a lot, so I won’t torture you with those pictures—don’t worry). 😉
The right lagoon, however, is somewhat deeper, which makes it possible to swim and enjoy its “Caribbean-like” waters .
That’s exactly where the little fish you see in the photo earned the nickname “Psycho Fish.” If you stay still for more than 30 seconds and one of these fish is swimming around you, get ready to feel a pinch on your legs as it tries to “clean” away your impurities.
I didn't know that removing 'dead skin' would hurt so much…
Little Psico was so focused on his work that he spent most of the day chasing us while we swam, waiting to take advantage of any moment when we weren't paying attention to sneak in a few "snacks. " 🙂
How to get there
Access by Road
There is an unpaved road—made of reddish dirt and gravel—that runs from the area near Kaliviani and the port of Kissamos to Balos Beach (or almost there).
When you arrive, you must pay the entrance fee to the nature park (€1 per person in 2013).
Although the drive is only 7.8 km long, the terrain will make it take you about 30 minutes to complete.
But if you like animals in the wild, speed won't be a problem. Dozens of goats dot the landscape and will even come right up to your window if you call them. They're used to tourists feeding them.
At the end of the route is the parking area, where spaces fill up quickly during peak season. Therefore, you may see a line of cars parked on the “shoulder” as you approach your destination.
From the parking lot, it's a 1.2-km walk to Balos Beach, and although it's possible to walk that distance in flip-flops, your best bet is to wear sneakers.
The first section is easy and almost flat. Shortly after, you'll reach a lookout point offering one of the most beautiful views in Crete: the Balos lagoons.
From there, the trail gets a bit challenging— rocky and steep going downhill (or uphill on the way back). Nothing that any ankle-supporting footwear can't handle. 😉
Boat Tour
One or more boats (depending on the season) depart daily from the port of Kissamos for the Gramvousa Peninsula.
If you sign up for one of these excursions, you'll have the chance to visit the island of Imeri Gramvousa and the ruins of its Venetian castle, as well as spend about 3 hours at Balos Beach.
In late September 2013, this boat arrived at the lagoons around 2:00 p.m. and departed again at 5:00 p.m.
Where to sleep
Of all the accommodations near Balos (Kissamos), we stayed at two of them for several days:
- At Anavaloussa Apartments (Viglia Kalyvianis), we were given a small two-level studio for €33/night for two people. It had a terrace and a pool, plus a small beach right in front of the hotel. The only downside was that the bathroom floor got too wet when you took a shower. Breakfast was very simple and cost an extra €1.50. But what more could you ask for at that price?
- At the Balos Beach Hotel we were given very large rooms with pool views for €35/night for two people. It also has a pool and is literally on the way to Balos Beach. It couldn’t be any closer. Thedownside is that breakfast cost €7, and although it was more substantial than the previous one, it wasn’t anything to write home about either (the selection was better if you arrived first thing in the morning).
When I come back (because I will come back…), I’ll most likely choose the Balos Beach Hotelagain, both for its location and for the comfort and spaciousness of the room itself.
Where to Eat
If there's one restaurant you need to try at least once in your life (yes, "need" is the right word here—I'm not exaggerating), it's this one:
Gramvousa (or Gramboussa) Restaurant
Well, maybe I'm exaggerating a little, okay... But just thinking about it makes my mouth water.
It's located in Kalyviani, 1 km (a 2-minute drive) from the Balos Beach Hotel, and you'll recognize it not so much by its sign (which you won't understand unless you know Greek) but by its backyard with views, dotted with trees and tables.
The prices are very affordable. Dinner for two never cost us more than €28. And we were there for a total of 6 nights!
Why so many? Because the food there was SPECTACULAR.
I recommend trying boureki (baked vegetables with a blend of local cheeses), moussaka, suckling pig, rabbit in wine, and, above all, honey-roasted lamb.
On the tables, you’ll find a complimentary bottle of tap water (which is perfectly safe to drink) and a small bottle of raki, the Greek grape-based digestif produced right here in Crete. I recommend saving it for the end of dinner. 😉
For dessert, you can choose whatever you like from a table filled with a wide variety of seasonal fruits, or order something sweet (not on the menu). One night during our stay, we tried some delicious fried milk rolls with honey.
When to go
During peak season (July and August), parking spots fill up quickly, so you'll want to arrive first thing in the morning to get a spot near the trail.
We visited Crete in late September/early October 2013, when there were hardly any tourists left, so we didn't have to get up too early.
Useful links
- Boat tours from the port of Kissamos.
- Anavaloussa Apartments.
- Balos Beach Hotel.
- Other hotel deals near Balos.
- Flights to Crete: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
And here you can check out the rest of my trip to Crete:
- The truth about Elafonisi: Crete's most famous pink beach.
- E4 route between Paleochora and Sougia: a coastal trek.
- Trekking through the Samaria Gorge.
What else do you need to know about Crete and Balos Beach?
Leave your questions in the comments, and I'll be happy to help you in any way I can. 🙂