Close your eyes and imagine a medieval village surrounded by ancient forests and dormant volcanoes.
Chances are you've pictured something very similar to Santa Pau, in the heart of La Garrotxa.
Fancy a trip back in time?
Santa Pau's Old Town
Although the original village has grown a bit over time, Santa Pau's historic centre (the Old Town) remains intact within its walls.
I'd say almost frozen in time. Or at least that's the feeling you get when you look at it from the viewpoint and wander into its quiet grey stone streets.
The medieval route is short, but I'm sure you'll stop at every corner to admire:
- The views of the village from the Mirador square.
- The flower-filled arcades of the Plaza Mayor.
- The castle dominating the hill.
- The small metal sculptures scattered where you least expect them.
Every step is a delight.
My recommendation?
Drop by the information office and ask. There, they can tell you how to enjoy Santa Pau and its surroundings at your own pace.
That's exactly what I did. 👇
9 hiking routes from Santa Pau
If you love hiking, you're going to be amazed the second you step into the information office.
Behind the counter, you'll see a piece of furniture reminiscent of the open mail sorting racks in a post office. The only difference is that instead of letters or parcels, the slots are packed with hiking trail maps.
Some are short, others longer. Some start from (and loop back to) Santa Pau, while others connect villages across La Garrotxa.
Right then and there, you'll wish you'd booked a whole week instead of just two days for your getaway here. 😉
At the tourist info desk, they'll hand you the map and all the details for the ones you fancy most, but here are some of the main trails around Santa Pau:
- R1 – La Fageda and the volcanoes:
- The most popular one, starting from the Joan Maragall trail in the Fageda d'en Jordà towards the Santa Margarida volcano and Croscat (10 km, 4 hours).
- R3 – The 2 Castles route, from Santa Pau to Colltort
- Reaches what is considered the best viewpoint in La Garrotxa (12.5 km, 4.5 hours).
- R4 – From Santa Pau to Rocanegra Volcano
- The youngest volcano in La Garrotxa (1.77 km, 30 min).
- R5 – Ancient monks' paths
- A scenic and challenging itinerary (15.2 km, 5 hours).
- R7 – Natural pools route
- Besides visiting the pools near Santa Pau, it mostly overlaps with the springs route (R6) (8.1 km, 2.5 hours).
- R8 – Trail through the Fageda Fosca.
- Access to the least-known and most fascinating beech forest in La Garrotxa (6.1 km, 2 hours).
- R9 – Lands of the Barons.
- Reaches the breathtaking views of Finestres (12 km, 4.5 hours).
Now the hard part is choosing. 😉
How to get there
By car
You can't drive into Santa Pau's Old Town, but you'll find parking at the entrance and exit of the village (or at your accommodation if you're lucky enough to spend the night in Santa Pau).
By bus
With the Teisa bus company, you can reach Santa Pau and the surrounding area from cities like Barcelona, Girona, or Figueres.
I've included the direct link to the bus company at the end of this post in case you want to plan your route.
When to go
If you want to go hiking, the best time to visit the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park is spring (April, May, and June).
Autumn tends to get very crowded, and in the height of summer, high temperatures restrict hiking hours to early mornings.
Winter is also a great time to visit: fewer hikers and no sweltering heat. However, you'll be more dependent on the weather.
Where to sleep
Santa Pau
You'll find several charming places to stay in Santa Pau and the surrounding area.
We stayed on the outskirts of Santa Pau, in a villa with a gorgeous private garden that we found on Airbnb. And we loved it! But it's no longer available for rent.
What I can definitely recommend is staying overnight in the surroundings of Santa Pau to enjoy the absolute peace that settles in there at sunset.
Though I can also recommend other options in La Garrotxa
Vall de Bianya
In 2019, we stayed at La Masía del Puig.
To get there, I recommend taking the road heading towards Castellar de la Muntanya from Sant Joan les Fonts.
Fair warning: if Google Maps tries to take you down a different route, resist! That other track is strictly for 4x4s.
Even following these directions, there comes a point where the tarmac ends and turns into a gravel and dirt track where you'll need to drive slowly so you don't ruin your tyres.
Is such a tricky drive worth it?
Absolutely, yes. 😉
And if you don't believe me, see for yourself:
Why did I love La Masía del Puig so much?
- It's nestled in Vall de Bianya with sunrise views that will take your breath away.
- They serve delicious breakfasts and dinners made with local ingredients, some straight from their own organic veggie patch.
- Its setting and design have been meticulously crafted so you can relax and leave all your worries behind the moment you set eyes on it.
The only downside is that it comes with a hefty price tag (no surprise there—this place is pure bliss for the senses).
A weekend night with breakfast costs €154, and a 2-course dinner + dessert and drinks is €32.50 per person. That came to a total of €219 (€109.50/person).
Would I go back? As soon as I can. 😉
Southern Garrotxa
B&B La Rectoria de Sant Miquel de Pineda is tucked away in a grove in the south of La Garrotxa.
This hidden gem of a rural hotel goes completely unnoticed as you drive along the road linking Sant Esteve d’en Bas with Sant Feliu de Pallerols. In fact, you'll probably miss the entrance if you don't pay close attention.
Why did I love it so much?
- They serve mouthwatering dinners, lunches, and breakfasts using seasonal local produce. Raw milk cheeses, tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes, homemade cured meats... even artisanal ice cream!
- They provide organic shower gel and shampoo that smell so amazing I felt like taking several showers in a row (which I didn't do, of course, to respect the accommodation's eco-friendly energy-saving spirit).
- It's small, charming, and peaceful at night. Combine that with a bed that was pure heaven to sleep in, and all it needed was a roaring fire to be sheer perfection... Wait a minute, they had one of those too! 😉
- The couple running it are wonderful. They reminded me so much of the owners of a farmhouse we used to escape to all the time years ago... The kind of people who make you feel right at home.
We didn't have time to cycle the greenway trail right outside their door or take a dip in the garden's outdoor pool (despite the gorgeous weather we had back in March 2019).
So now we have a couple of excuses to go back. 😉
One night on half board (breakfast and dinner included) cost us €158. And seeing how incredible the food was, next time I'm booking full board.
Useful links
- Teisa Buses.
- Accommodations in Santa Pau.
- Flights to Girona and Barcelona: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
If you're exploring La Garrotxa and the rest of Catalonia, here are some other routes and destinations you might like:
- La Fageda d'en Jordà and the Joan Maragall trail.
- Hike up the Santa Margarida volcano.
- Castellfollit de la Roca: the best viewpoint overlooking its cliffs.
- Rupit – Salt de Sallent circular trail.
- Follow the smugglers' trail: Beget – Rocabruna.
- Montserrat trail: funicular-Santa Magdalena-Sant Miquel-monastery.
- Montserrat circular route: from the monastery to the summit of Sant Jeroni.
- Family-friendly hiking to the Font de la Pola.
- Challenge your perspective at the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Map
I'll be posting more guides soon on hiking routes and visiting the villages of La Garrotxa. If you want to be the first to know, sign up for the newsletter.
Any fun stories or questions about your Santa Pau trip? Tell me all about it in the comments.