Positano looks like a colorful mosaic spilled over an Amalfi Coast mountain when you see it appear from afar.
But when you step inside…
The mosaic comes to life, wrapping around you in the form of ancient palazzos looking out over the sea from the heights.
You've read (or are about to read) a lot about Positano.
You'll find all kinds of photos, panoramas, and details online.
But once you set foot in it yourself, see it with your own eyes, smell it, hear it, taste it, and feel it with all your senses…
Then, you'll understand an open secret:
Everything they told you didn't even scratch the surface.
So I'm just going to tell you how to make the absolute most of your visit to Positano. And, as a bonus, I'll give you a little taste to whet your appetite.
The rest—the magic—you'll have to discover for yourself. Ready?
Things to do in Positano
Swim at its beaches
… And admire the collage of colorful houses from the water.
Picture this…
You're floating in the water. You close your eyes to relax and let yourself be gently rocked by the waves created by passing boats.
You open your eyes, and there they are.
Hundreds of tiny buildings, shouting out to the horizon with their doorways and terraces, watching you through their windows as they cling tooth and nail to a mountainous landscape that tries to throw them into the sea without mercy.
I dare you to look away…
Depending on what you're after, you have two options:
- Enjoy the best views of Positano: Choose the main large beach, right by the port. To prevent accidents, they've marked off an area with floating buoys just for swimmers. Even so, you'll see that space to lay down your towel for free is very limited. Alternatively, the minimum price for 2 sun loungers + an umbrella in the private area is €25 (third row).
- Relax by the sea (as much as possible): Opt for the small beach, which gets fewer tourists compared to the main one (remember, true solitude doesn't exist in Positano). There's more free public shore and fewer motorboats around you when you swim.
Keep an eye on the views
… And on the little details.
Along the main road that crosses through the town, there are several scenic spots that offer the classic postcard-perfect views of Positano. I've marked a couple of them on the map at the bottom of this page.
But keep your eyes peeled.
Around every corner, there's a little scene waiting to awaken your senses:
- A wall covered in ceramic decorations.
- The passage of time etched across the facades.
- Doormen in tuxedos.
- Beach umbrellas lined up in neat geometric patterns.
- A bride dressed in white on the terrace of an old pink palazzo.
- Neapolitans wearing suspenders.
Take a boat ride
… Even if it's just for 5 minutes.
While seeing the Amalfi Coast from the water is already well worth it, admiring Positano from that perspective is truly the icing on the cake.
Stroll through its narrow alleys
… At dusk.
Keep an open mind: It's a very touristy town.
Because of that, Positano is packed with shops trying to sell you something. Every doorway, every window is a new boutique for clothes, accessories, art, food… Basically, pure consumerism.
It's hard to get some time all to yourself, but if you stroll through Positano at nightfall, you're going to enjoy this great experience much more.
- A string quartet playing Pachelbel's 'Canon' on a private terrace.
- A charming inner courtyard, covered in ivy and adorned with small fairy lights.
- Stairs and alleys crossing each other like a labyrinth.
- Hundreds of cats by the square of the church of Santa Maria Assunta.
- A secret staircase to the sea.
- The feeling of cold sand under your bare feet.
- The smell of tomato, oregano, and mozzarella fresh out of the oven.
(Sigh...)
Where to Eat
As you can imagine:
- Restaurants in Positano tend to have very high prices.
- It's impossible to make a fair comparison in just 24 hours. 🙂
So I'll tell you about what I tried:
La Brezza Net Art Café
If you feel like changing up the style of food, this bar/restaurant offers delicious fish and seafood tapas right by the beach. Perfect for a high-quality light dinner by the sea. We spent 48€ on 3 tapas, 1 dessert (delicious homemade truffles, and I'm not even that into truffles), and two glasses of white wine.
La Pergola
Do you know what sounds great when you're lying on a third-row sunbed on Positano's main beach in the middle of the day?
Yes, you guessed it. A pizza with authentic buffalo mozzarella. Mmmmm... If you order it for takeaway, they cost 8-9€ each.
Where to sleep
Forget about finding bargains to spend the night in Positano. And if, on top of that, you arrive by car, you'd better get your wallet ready. 🙂
Among the crowd of options we found on Booking, we opted for Casa Maresca.
Why?
Casa Maresca
- It gets a score of 9.2 on the search engine.
- It offers sea views and a terrace in front of the room to enjoy them.
- We didn't take the car all the way to Positano, but left it at the B&B A due Passi degli Dei.
- It was one of the cheapest options we found.
And when we got there, it did not disappoint.
Thanks to its orientation toward the small beach, it occupies a somewhat secluded location, meaning less touristy (if that exists in Positano...). And the panoramic view from its terrace transports you straight to the authentic spirit of the Amalfi Coast and southern Italy: typical Neapolitan chaos and a mosaic of colorful houses stacked on the hillside. You'll feel like a true local.
The room is very simple, with old construction. So, above all, don't expect any kind of luxury. That said, they provide a water heater, a desk fridge, and basic tableware so you can eat prepared meals on the terrace.
We, for example, had tea and cookies with a view for breakfast. But our neighbors prepared a delicious dinner of tomato and authentic fresh buffalo mozzarella... By the way, don't leave this area of Italy without trying it.
Budget
This is what we spent in 2 half-days and 1 night in Positano. Keep in mind that we arrived on foot after hiking the Path of the Gods, and the next day we left for Bomerano via Amalfi to spend the night, just as I tell you in this post.
- Accommodation: 120€ (60€/person).
- Food: 80€ breakfast + dinner + lunch (40€/person).
- Transport:6 € boat + bus (9.8€/person).
- Beach: 25€ (12.5€/person).
In total, 24 hours in Positano cost us 134.6€, 67.3€ per person.
When to go
In high season (July, August, and much of June and September), both prices and the influx of tourists are very high. That said, to take a dip in Positano's beaches, it's the best time.
If this is your case, try to choose June or September, as we did when we visited the Amalfi Coast in early June 2017.
In low season, you'll find fewer crowds, although the days are short and the weather can spoil some days. However, if swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea doesn't appeal to you that much, this is a great time to wander around this area of Italy in peace.
How to get there
Road
If you travel by car to Positano, keep the cost of a parking garage in your budget (I've marked some of the ones I saw on the map at the end of this post) or look for accommodation that includes parking.
The road along the Amalfi Coast is very narrow and busy, so arm yourself with patience, drive slowly, and keep all your spidey senses active. (It just hit me: a Spider-Man suit would be the perfect method of transportation in this part of Italy... :O)
For instance, if you approach a curve and hear a horn, hit the brakes. What's coming toward you is a massive bus that needs both lanes to get through.
Boat
There are several companies and routes connecting the main towns along the Amalfi Coast. What's more, if you prefer, it's possible to sail directly to Positano from Salerno or Capri.
You'll also find water taxis to take you to small villages, coves inaccessible by land, or exclusive seaside restaurants.
Bus
Without a doubt, this is the most budget-friendly way to travel along the Amalfi Coast.
The company serving the region is called SITA bus, and in general, their vehicles are comfortable and pretty well maintained.
The Amalfi Coast PDF Guide
Want a PDF with all the travel tips from this blog on how to plan your own DIY trip to the Amalfi Coast?
Save it to your tablet or phone and check it whenever you need it.
- Choose when, where, and how.
- Tailor your budget to suit your wallet.
- Live your own adventure.
Sounds good? Then click here to grab it for just €1.95.
Useful links
- Amalfi-Positano bus timetable.
- Amalfi to Positano ferry schedule.
- Accommodation at Casa Maresca.
- Flight deal search engines: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.
Traveling along the Amalfi Coast? You'll want to check this out:
- A 7-day road trip along the Amalfi Coast.
- The Path of the Gods, descending into Positano from the heights.
- The Tre Calli loop, an alternative route above the Amalfi Coast.
- Amalfi (and Atrani) in 24 hours.
- Ravello and the villas with the best views on the Amalfi Coast.
Want to ask me something or share your Positano experience with me? Leave me a comment below. I'd love to read about your adventures or help you make them happen. 🙂