Positano looks like a mosaic of colors spilled across a mountain on the Amalfi Coast when you see it appear in the distance.
But when you walk into it…
The mosaic comes to life and envelops you in the form of ancient palaces that overlook the sea from on high.
You've read (or are going to read) a lot about Positano.
You'll find all kinds of photos, panoramic shots, and close-ups online.
But when you set foot on it, see it with your own eyes, smell it, hear it, taste it, and feel it with all your other senses…
Then you'll understand a secret that's an open secret:
Everything they told you was an understatement.
So I'm just going to tell you how to make the most of your visit to Positano. And, as a bonus, I'm offering you a little appetizer to whet your appetite.
As for the rest—the magic—you'll have to discover it for yourself. Ready?
Things to Do in Positano
Swimming at its beaches
… And admire the collage of colorful houses from the sea.
Just imagine…
You're floating in the water. You close your eyes to relax and let yourself be rocked by the waves created by the boats.
You open your eyes, and there they are.
Hundreds of tiny buildings, reaching toward the horizon with their doorways and terraces, watching you through their windows, while clinging with all their might to a mountainous terrain that tries to cast them into the sea without mercy.
I dare you to look away…
Depending on your goals, you have two options:
- Enjoy the best views of Positano: Choose the main, large beach next to the harbor. To prevent accidents, they’ve marked off an area with floating buoys reserved for swimmers. Even so, you’ll find that there’s very little space to lay out your towel for free. As an alternative, the minimum price for 2 beach chairs and a umbrella in the private area is €25 (third row).
- Relax by the sea (as much as possible): Choose the smaller beach, which tends to attract fewer tourists than the other one (remember, there’s no such thing as solitude in Positano). There’s more open beachfront and fewer motorboats around you when you swim.
Stay alert during the hearings
… And the details.
Along the main road that runs through the town, there are several scenic overlooks offering the classic postcard views of Positano. I've marked a couple of them on the map at the bottom of this page.
But keep your eyes wide open.
In every corner, there's a moment waiting to awaken your senses:
- A wall covered with ceramic ornaments.
- The passage of time etched on the facades.
- Goalkeepers in tuxedos.
- Beach umbrellas forming geometric shapes.
- A bride dressed in white on the terrace of an old pink palace.
- Neapolitan cookies on a string.
Take a boat
… Even if it's only 5 minutes.
If seeing the Amalfi Coast from the sea is already worth it, we could say that admiring Positano from that perspective is the icing on the cake.
Stroll through its narrow streets
… At dusk.
Keep an open mind: It's a very touristy town.
As a result, Positano is full of shops trying to sell you something. Every doorway, every window, is a new store selling clothes, accessories, art, food… In short, consumerism in its purest form.
It's hard to be alone, but if you take a stroll through Positano at nightfall, you'll enjoy this wonderful experience even more.
- A string quartet playing Pachelbel's "Canon" on a private terrace.
- A charming inner courtyard, covered in ivy and adorned with small light bulbs.
- Stairways and alleys that crisscross like a maze.
- Hundreds of cats near the plaza by the Santa Maria Assunta Church.
- A secret staircase leading to the sea.
- The feeling of cold sand beneath your bare feet.
- The smell of tomatoes, oregano, and mozzarella fresh out of the oven.
(Oh, man…)
Where to Eat
As you can probably imagine:
- Restaurants in Positano tend to be very expensive.
- It's impossible to make a fair comparison in just 24 hours. 🙂
So I'll tell you about what I tried:
La Brezza Net Art Café
If you're in the mood for a change of pace when it comes to food, this bar/restaurant offers delicious fish and seafood tapas right on the beach. It's perfect for a light, high-quality dinner by the sea. We spent 48€ on 3 tapas, 1 dessert (delicious homemade truffles—and I'm not even a big fan of truffles), and two glasses of white wine.
La Pergola
Do you know what you feel like doing when you're lying in a third-row hammock on Positano's main beach at midday?
Yes, you guessed it. A pizza with authentic buffalo mozzarella. Mmmmm… If you order it to go, they're 8–9€ each.
Where to sleep
Forget about finding bargains on a place to stay overnight in Positano. And if you're driving there, you'd better get your wallet ready. 🙂
Among the many options we found on Booking, we decided on Casa Maresca.
Why?
Casa Maresca
- It has a rating of 9.2 on the search engine.
- It offers ocean views and a terrace right outside the room where you can enjoy them.
- We didn't drive all the way to Positano; instead, we left the car at the B&B A due Passi degli Dei.
- It was one of the cheapest options we found.
And when we got there, it didn't disappoint.
Thanks to its location facing the small beach, it’s in a somewhat secluded spot—that is, less touristy (if such a thing even exists in Positano…). And the panoramic view from its terrace transports you to the true spirit of the Amalfi Coast and southern Italy: the typical Neapolitan chaos and a mosaic of colorful houses stacked on the hillside. You’ll feel like a true local.
The room is very simple and quite old. So, above all, don't expect any kind of luxury. That said, they do provide a hot water heater, a countertop refrigerator, and basic tableware so you can eat ready-made meals on the terrace.
We, for example, had tea and cookies for breakfast while enjoying the view. But our neighbors made themselves a delicious dinner featuring tomatoes and authentic fresh buffalo mozzarella…By the way, don’t leave this part of Italy without trying it.
Budget
Here's how much we spent during our 2 half-days and 1 night in Positano. Keep in mind that we arrived on foot, after hiking the " Circuit of the Gods," and the next day we left for Bomerano, via Amalfi, to spend the night, just as I mentioned in this post.
- Lodging: 120€ (60€ per person).
- Meals: 80€ for breakfast, dinner, and lunch (40€ per person).
- Transportation:6 € by boat + bus (9.8 € per person).
- Beach: 25€ (12.5€ per person).
In total, our 24 hours in Positano cost us 134.6€, or 67.3€ per person.
When to go
Duringpeak season (July, August, and most of June and September), both prices and tourist numbers are very high. That said, it’s the best time of year to go for a swim on the beaches of Positano.
If that's the case for you, try to go in June or September, just like we did—we visited the Amalfi Coast in early June 2017.
Duringthe off-season, you'll find fewer crowds, although the days are short and the weather might put a damper on some of your outings. However, if swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea doesn't really appeal to you, this is a good time to explore this part of Italy at a leisurely pace.
How to get there
Highway
If you're driving to Positano, be sure to factor parking costs into your budget (I've marked some of the parking lots I saw on the map at the end of this post) or look for accommodations that include parking.
The road that winds along the Amalfi Coast is very narrow and busy, so be patient, drive slowly, and keep all your spider-senses on high alert. (It just occurred to me: a Spider-Man suit would be the perfect way to get around this part of Italy… :O)
For example, if you're approaching a curve and hear a horn, slow down. What's coming toward you is a huge bus that needs both lanes to continue on its way.
Boat
There are several companies and routes connecting the major cities along the Amalfi Coast. In fact, if you prefer, you can sail to Positano directly from Salerno or Capri.
You'll also find taxi boats that will take you to small towns, coves that are inaccessible by land, or exclusive seaside restaurants.
Bus
Without a doubt, this is the most economical way to travel along the Amalfi Coast.
The company that serves the region is called SITA Bus, and, in general, its vehicles are comfortable and in fairly good condition.
The Amalfi Coast PDF Guide
Want a PDF with all the travel tips from this blog on how to plan your own DIY trip to the Amalfi Coast?
Save it to your tablet or phone and check it whenever you need it.
- Choose when, where, and how.
- Tailor your budget to suit your wallet.
- Live your own adventure.
Sounds good? Then click here to grab it for just €1.95.
Useful links
- Amalfi-Positano bus timetable.
- Amalfi to Positano ferry schedule.
- Accommodations atCasa Maresca.
- Flight deal search engines: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.
Traveling along the Amalfi Coast? You'll want to check this out:
- A 7-day road trip along the Amalfi Coast.
- The Path of the Godsdescends from the heights to Positano.
- The Tre Calli Circuit, an alternative route along the Amalfi Coast.
- Amalfi (and Atrani) in 24 hours.
- Ravello and the villas with the best views on the Amalfi Coast.
Would you like to ask me something or share your experience in Positano with me? Leave me a comment below. I'd love to read about your adventures or help you make them happen. 🙂