Tackle Hawaii's most demanding trek: The Kalalau Trail.

The most famous, paradise-like, tough, and inaccessible trekking route in Hawaii. It won't be easy, but it will change your life forever. Are you up for the Kalalau challenge?

The Napali Coast is one of those natural wonders that leave a lasting mark on your memory. It's located on Kauai, the Garden Isle of the Hawaiian archipelago.

Even if you haven't visited this part of the world, you've likely seen it in wallpapers or blockbusters like Jurassic Park.

Maybe you've even wondered: where are those mountains located? Is it all computer-generated?

Well, yes, the dinosaurs were CGI, but the island wasn't. 🙂

Those razor-sharp peaks pointing toward the sky were real. The valleys, the vegetation, the endless waterfalls... they exist. And they're within your reach, and above all, right under your feet, thanks to the Kalalau Trail.

Due to its geography, it's impossible to access the Napali Coast by road. So, the only ways to see it are:

• By air: flying in a helicopter.
• By sea: taking a boat.
• By land: on foot, hiking the Kalalau Trail.

Today, I'm going to focus on the most budget-friendly option of all: the Kalalau Trail

Want to know how to discover the most inaccessible secrets of the Napali Coast without breaking the bank too much? Keep reading.

Why hike the Kalalau Trail?

It would be a real shame to visit Kauai and not set foot in this little slice of heaven, isolated from the rest of the world.

Surrounded by lush vegetation, you'll cross small waterfalls and cascades that cut across the path.

You'll marvel at the views of the Napali Coast unfolding right before your eyes, getting closer and sharper with every step. An almost untouched land, free of asphalt and buildings, standing defenseless before the ocean. Pure wilderness, just as the first navigators found it when they settled on the island. It will take you back in time.

Not physically ready to hike the entire trail? Don't worry, the first part of the trek is fairly easy and offers gorgeous, unforgettable views. The only downside is that many people hike this section every day, so you won't have it all to yourself.

Are you an experienced hiker? Well, here's your next challenge. The scenery is unmatched, the reward is priceless. You'll encounter so few people along the way that... you'll actually be happy to see someone! An experience that will leave its mark on your life.

Now that you're convinced, let's talk practicalities.

Kalalau Trail

General technical details

• The Kalalau Trail runs along the Napali Coast from its northern end all the way to the paradise-like Kalalau Beach.
• Along the way, it crosses 3 valleys: Hanakapiai, Hanakoa, and Kalalau Valley, in that order.
• In total, it has a length of 22 miles round-trip (35.4 km).
• You'll need to carry all the water and food you'll need.
• You'll need a camping permit if you want to hike past Hanakapiai Valley.

Intimidating, right? Don't worry! You don't have to hike the whole thing.

Below, I'll show you how to make the most of it, whether you just want to take in the views for a few hours or you're a hardcore adventurer.

Ready? Let's dive in.

Starting point: Kee Beach

The trail begins next to Kee Beach, perfect for cooling off after one or several days of hiking. Plus, it offers one of the best sunsets on the island.

If the surf allows, it's also a great spot for snorkeling or spending the day enjoying the ocean. Keep in mind, you'll need to bring your own snorkel gear, as there are no shops in the area. Make sure to ask the lifeguards about currents before jumping into the water.

Next to the beach, you'll find restrooms, cold-water showers, and a drinking fountain to refill your water bottles.

Before reaching it, you'll cross a small stream that runs across the only road. Its flow depends on rainfall. Therefore, if it's pouring rain and you're not driving a 4x4, go with Plan B. It's for the best.

Along the way, you'll find well-marked single-lane stretches where only one car fits at a time. If traffic is light, the vehicle closest to or already on the bridge has the right of way. If there's a queue on both ends, each side should yield to 6-8 cars from the opposite direction before taking their turn.

Parking spots near Kee Beach are limited, so I recommend arriving quite early.

First section: Hanakapiai Valley

Most visitors only do this first part, making it the most popular stretch.

• The trek between Kee and Hanakapiai Beach is 4 miles round-trip (6.5 km) long.
• About 4 hours will be enough to go and come back while enjoying the scenery.
• To reach Hanakapiai Beach, you'll have to cross the river once, right at the end. And when I say cross, I mean getting your feet wet, shoes and all. How? Yes! Once I'm done with the practical details, I'll tell you all about our waterlogged adventure, photos included. Keep reading!
• This section is of moderate difficulty. I saw kids doing it, though they didn't make it to the beach because of the river.
• Swimming is not allowed at Hanakapiai Beach, due to the heavy surf and strong currents.
• You can extend this route by heading from the beach to Hanakapiai Falls. In this case, the trail stretches to a total of 6 miles round-trip (12 km), becomes high difficulty, and will take you about 8 hours to complete.
• You don't need a camping permit if you stay in this valley, whether you only make it to the beach or continue to the falls.

Second section: Hanakoa Valley

Located between Hanakapiai and Kalalau, this valley welcomes hikers who run out of steam or get caught by nightfall halfway through.

• The trail to this point covers a total of 12 miles round-trip (19.3 km).
• It becomes a high-difficulty trek, reaching 250 meters in altitude, the highest point of the Kalalau Trail.
• There is a camping area set up on ancient agricultural terraces on both sides of the Hanakoa River.
• Generally, everyone prefers to keep going to Kalalau to camp, since the permit is valid for a maximum of 5 days, regardless of whether you spend the night in Kalalau or Hanakoa.
• In Hanakoa, to prevent overcrowding, you're only allowed to stay for one consecutive night.

Third section: Kalalau Valley

The lost paradise is waiting for you at the finish line.

• In total, reaching Kalalau beach and camping area takes a total of 22 miles round-trip (35.4 km).
• Remember, you need a camping permit to go beyond Hanakapiai. You can apply for it in person at state park district offices, or online.
• It costs $20 per night for non-residents, plus a 10% administrative fee.
• The permit to spend the night in Kalalau is also valid for Hanakoa.

Our soggy adventure

Much to my regret, I wasn't physically ready to take on the entire Kalalau Trail, as much as I would've loved to! Plus, I didn't have enough time to enjoy it the way it deserved; though that's just a cheap excuse I tell myself. Ouch!

So, we limited ourselves to the first section of the trail: Hanakapiai Valley.

Every website I read recommended NOT doing this hike if it had just rained. But during our trip in November 2016, there wasn't a single dry day! We had no choice but to muster our courage… and our rain ponchos.

We got lucky. When we arrived at the trailhead, we found out it had been closed the day before due to torrential rain. It had just reopened, yay!

As you can see in the summary video below, the ground had turned into a soft layer of slippery mud. Watch out!

Along the way, we found plenty of waterfalls and small streams crossing the path, which were easy to jump over. Mind you, the concentration of mosquitoes around them was huge, so whenever you see running water… run, too! They seem immune to bug spray! And they leave nasty welts… I'm speaking from experience.

We took our time, soaking in every panoramic view. In under two hours (photo shoots included), we reached the river that separated us from Hanakapiai Beach. Once again, beside it, a swarm of mosquitoes was feasting on all the hesitant tourists (myself and my legs included, of course!) trying to figure out the best way to cross over.

So, after watching a few people wade knee-deep and cross without any trouble, we didn't think twice. Hiking boots and all, we stepped into the riverbed and, little by little, leaning on each other, we reached Hanakapiai Beach unscathed.

The beach is gorgeous, featuring a small cave carved into the rock and massive black boulders. Swimming isn't allowed, but we did take the chance to dip our feet in the water… Yep, boots on—since they were already soaked anyway…!

After a well-deserved sandwich, some mandarins, and nuts, we considered heading up to Hanakapiai Falls. However, the day was way too rainy for that, and we would have had to cross the river three more times to get there. So, feeling a bit downcast, we called it a day with the hike we had done and started the journey back.

I felt more relaxed now. I'd eaten, strolled along the beach, and decided that for that day, my adventure ended there. All that was left was heading back.

So, before crossing, I stopped to read the information signs. Imagine my surprise when I saw a huge picture of the torrent, looking just as swollen as it did right then, warning:

Never cross the river under these conditions! Do not risk your life!

What? Excuse me? And right next to it, a small picture showing the exact same stream, but with way less water. It was almost unrecognizable. Underneath, it read:

River flow under normal conditions.

Well… if I wanted to get back, I had no choice but to cross it again.

Personal note: Celi, read first next time.

Following the same routine as an hour earlier, we waded in knee-deep and slowly made our way to the opposite bank. We didn't run into any trouble, as you probably saw in the video, but I wouldn't recommend taking the risk! And if you do (at your own risk), keep your shoes on. The rocks at the bottom get pretty slippery without them.

On the way back, we crossed paths with very few people, so we enjoyed it even more than the hike in. And finally, a swim at Kee Beach was the perfect grand finale to wrap up the day. It had all been completely worth it.

Other people's adventure

We bumped into several hikers returning from the Kalalau Valley. They were brave souls who had conquered the adventure. We asked them what they thought, and they said…

Long, exhausting…

It wasn't until I pressed a bit further that they admitted it had been an unforgettable experience.

I remember a local boat captain telling us that he had hiked that entire trail 5 or 6 times in his life. He said that every time he finished, he promised himself he would never do that crazy thing again. The route was just too tough.

And it makes me wonder: then why did he keep going back so many times?

What to bring

Here is a list of the essentials to pack for a day hike through Hanakapiai Valley.

If you're one of those adventurous souls planning to tackle the entire Kalalau Trail, you'll need a much longer list: tent, sleeping bag, headlamp, plenty of food and water…

• Rain poncho and/or rain jacket. Keeping those mountains so lush and green takes gallons upon gallons of water. Because of that, chances are you'll run into a downpour or two. A waterproof jacket will come in handy to cut the wind, keep you warm, and shield you from the rain. However, when heavy downpours hit (they're temporary, don't panic), a poncho will be a lifesaver, covering not only you, but your backpack and precious camera gear too.
• Proper hiking footwear. I saw a few people trekking in flip-flops, and believe me, they didn't look like they were having a good time. I personally recommend hiking boots with Gore-Tex technology or similar that are waterproof. They'll definitely come in handy when you have to clean off all the caked mud without getting the inside wet. On the other hand, I noticed some tourists wearing different shoes with the same type of grip on the soles, but open-toed, like these. They are much lighter and easier to wash. Perfect for wading through the river!
• Lightweight clothing. If possible, wear quick-drying clothes. In my opinion, shorts are more comfortable since they won't get as muddy or soaked when crossing the river.
• Food and drinks. Pack enough water (at least 1-1.5 liters per person) and snacks. Drinking water is only available from a fountain next to the restrooms at Kee Beach. Honey cereal bars and mixed nuts are fantastic, portable energy boosts. Throw in a couple of sandwiches and some fresh fruit, and you'll be all set for the adventure.

Today I shared how to hike along the Napali Coast. But did you know you can also take in the views from high above? And I'm not just talking about taking a helicopter tour—which is awesome too!—but hiking the dozens of trails that wind across its mountain ridges. If you'd like to experience even more of this natural wonder, explore Kokee Road and the Awaawapuhi Trail with me.

And if you want all the guides and tips I've written about Kauai, here you go:

• 9-day Kauai road trip, step by step.
• Practical guide to organizing your own trip to Kauai.
• Waimea Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
• Discover the Napali Coast on a luxury boat.
• Kauai's most beautiful beaches: what are you in the mood for today?
• Awaawapuhi Trail, the Napali Coast at your feet.
• Fly over Kauai in a helicopter… with no doors!
• Queen’s Bath, forbidden beauty in the Garden of Eden.
• Mahaulepu Trail, hiking, temples, and pristine beaches in Kauai.

Want to explore another Hawaiian island? Check out our experience in Maui:

• 7-day Maui road trip.
• Guide to planning a DIY trip to Maui.
• The best snorkeling beaches in South Maui.
• Humpback whale watching off the coast of Maui.
• A nightmare before dawn at Haleakala.
• The full description of our experience at O’hoe Gulch and Pipiway Trail.
• 3 days and 2 nights exploring the Road to Hana.

And remember, if you need more information about Hawaii, don't hesitate to leave a comment down below. I'll gladly help you out with whatever you need.

Useful links (in English)

• Hawaiian government official page on the Kalalau Trail.
• Details of the hike to Hanakapiai Falls.
• Website to apply for a camping permit.
• Map of the Kalalau Trail.
• Booking deals in Kauai.
• ESTA application.
• International flight deals to Hawaii: Trabber, eDreams and Momondo.
• 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

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