Take on Hawaii's most challenging trek: the Kalalau Trail.

The most famous, paradisiacal, hard and inaccessible trekking route in Hawaii. It won't be easy, but it will change your life forever. Do you dare with the Kalalau?

The Napali Coast is one of those wonders of nature that leave a mark on the retinas. It is located on Kauai, the garden island of the Hawaiian archipelago.

Even if you haven't visited this part of the world, chances are you've already seen it in wallpapers or blockbusters of the calibre of Jurassic Park.

You may even have wondered: where will these mountains be located? Will it all be computer-designed?

Well, yes, the dinosaurs were graphical animations, but the island, no. 🙂 🙂

Those blade-shaped peaks, pointing skyward, were real. The valleys, the vegetation, the endless waterfalls... they exist. And they are within reach of your hand and, above all, your feet, thanks to the Kalalau Trail.

Due to its geography, it is impossible to access the Napali coast using road transport. Thus, the only ways to see it are:

• By air: flying by helicopter.
• By sea: by taking a boat.
• By land: on foot, along the Kalalau Trail.

Today I am going to focus on the most economical option of all: the Kalalau Trail.

Want to know how to discover the most inaccessible secrets of the Napali coast without breaking the bank? Then read on.

Why go all the way to the Kalalau Trail?

It would be a real shame if you were on Kauai and didn't set foot in this little piece of heaven isolated from the world.

Surrounded by lush vegetation, you will cross small waterfalls and waterfalls that cross the trail.

You will be delighted with the views of the Napali coastline cut out in front of you, closer and more defined with each step. An almost virgin land, without asphalt or constructions, defenseless in front of the sea. A wild nature, just as the first sailors who settled on the island found it. It will transport you back in time.

Not physically prepared to do the whole thing? Don't worry, the first part of the hike is quite easy and offers beautiful and unforgettable views. The only negative point is that many people do this part of the route every day, so you won't enjoy it alone.

Are you an experienced mountaineer? Well, here's your next challenge. The scenery is unparalleled, the prize is priceless. You will meet so few people along the way that... you will be glad to see them! An experience that will mark your life.

Now that you're convinced, let's talk about practical things.

Kalalau Trail

General technical details

• The Kalalau Trail runs along the Napali coast from its northern end to the paradisiacal Kalalau Beach.
• On its way, it crosses 3 valleys: Hanakapiai, Hanakoa and Kalalau Valley, in that order.
• In total, it has a length of 22 miles i/v (35.4 km).
• You should bring with you all the water and food you need.
• You will need a camping permit if you want to go beyond the Hanakapiai Valley.

It's scary, huh? Take it easy! You don't have to go all the way around.

Here's how to get the most out of it, whether you want to enjoy the show for just a few hours or you're an extreme adventurer.

Ready? Here we go.

Starting point: Kee Beach

The trail starts next to Kee Beach, perfect for cooling off after one or more days of trekking. It also offers one of the best sunsets on the island.

If the waves allow it, it is also a good place to snorkel or spend the day enjoying the sea. Of course, you will have to bring diving equipment with you, as there is no diving store in the area. Be sure to ask the coast guard about the currents before jumping into the water.

Next to the beach you will find restrooms, cold water showers and a drinking water fountain where you can refuel.

Before reaching it, you will cross a small watercourse that crosses the only available road. Its flow depends on rainfall. Therefore, if it is pouring down and you are not driving a 4×4, opt for a plan B. It will be the best.

Along the way you will find well-marked areas where only one car can fit. If there is not much traffic, the vehicle closest to or over the bridge has the right of way. If there is a queue at both ends, each direction must allow 6-8 cars on the opposite side to pass before resuming traffic.

Parking spaces next to Kee Beach are limited, so I recommend arriving quite early.

First leg: Hanakapiai Valley

Most visitors only do this first part, which is why it is the busiest.

• The route from Kee y Hanakapiai Beach has a length of 4 miles i/v (6.5 km).
• With 4 hours you will have enough time to go and come back enjoying the road.
• To get to Hanakapiai Beach, you must cross the river once, right at the end. And when I say cross, I mean get your feet wet, shoes included. How? Yes! When I finish with the practical information, I will tell you, with graphic documents included, about our water adventure. Keep reading!
• This route has a moderate difficulty. I saw children doing it, although they did not reach the beach because of the river.
• Swimming is not allowed at Hanakapiai Beach, due to waves and strong currents.
• You can extend this route by going from the beach to Hanakapiai Falls. In this case, the trail is extended to a total of 6 miles i/v (12 km), becomes of high difficulty and will take you about 8 hours to complete.
• You do not need a camping permit if you stay in this valley, whether you go only as far as the beach, or continue on to the falls.

Second leg: Hanakoa Valley

Located between Hanakapiai and Kalalau, this valley welcomes those mountaineers whose strength fails or who are caught in the middle of the night.

• The trail up to here runs for a total of 12 miles i/v (19.3 km).
• It becomes a trekking of high difficulty, since it reaches 250 meters of altitude, the highest point of the Kalalau Trail.
• There is a camping area located on former agricultural terraces on both sides of the Hanakoa River.
• Generally, everyone prefers to continue on to Kalalau for camping, as the permit is for a maximum of 5 days, regardless of whether you stay overnight in Kalalau or Hanakoa.
• In Hanakoa, to avoid crowds, only one consecutive night is allowed.

Third leg: Kalalau Valley

Paradise lost is waiting for you at the finish line.

• In total, getting to Kalalau beach and camping area takes a total of 22 miles i/v (35.4 km).
• Remember, you need a camping permit to continue beyond Hanakapiai. You can apply in person, at state park district offices, or online.
• It costs $20 per night for non-residents, plus a 10% administration fee.
• Permission to stay overnight in Kalalau is also valid in Hanakoa.

Our adventure under water

Much to my regret, I was not physically prepared to do the entire Kalalau Trail, I wish I was! Besides, I lacked the time to enjoy it as it deserved; although this is a cheap excuse I tell myself. Ouch!

Therefore, we limit ourselves to the first section of the trail: the Hanakapiai Valley.

All the pages I read about it, recommended NOT to do this excursion if it had just rained. But during our trip, in November 2016, there was no dry day! We had no choice but to gather our courage... and rain capes.

We were lucky. Arriving at the trailhead, we found that it had been closed the day before due to torrential rains. It was just opened, yay!

As you can see in the summary video below, the ground had turned into a soft layer of slippery mud. Watch out!

Along the way we found a multitude of waterfalls and streams crossing the pass, easy to jump. Of course, the concentration of mosquitoes on them was very high, so when you see water running... run too! They seem immune to repellent! And they leave quite a few welts... I speak from experience.

We walked leisurely, enjoying every panoramic view. In less than two hours (photo sessions included), we reached the river that separated us from Hanakapiai beach. Again, next to it, a horde of mosquitoes was preying on all the undecided tourists (me and my legs included, of course!), who were assessing the best way to get to the other side.

So, after observing how some people got knee-deep in it and crossed it without any problems, we didn't think twice. Hiking boots and all, we waded into the riverbed and, little by little, leaning on each other, we made it unscathed to Hanakapiai Beach.

The beach is beautiful, with a small cave carved into the rock and huge black boulders. Swimming is not allowed, but we took the opportunity to put our feet in the water... Yes, with our boots on, since we were there...!

After a well-deserved snack, tangerines and dried fruit, we decided to climb up to the Hanakapiai Falls. Hanakapiai Falls. However, the day was too rainy for that, and we had to cross the river three more times to reach them. Therefore, somewhat crestfallen, we were satisfied with the trip and started our way back.

Now I was calmer. I had eaten, walked along the beach and decided that, that day, my adventure ended there. The only thing left to do was to go back.

So, before crossing, I stopped to read the information signs. And what would be my surprise to see a huge picture of the torrent, exactly as fast-flowing as at that moment, which read:

Never cross the river in these conditions! Don't risk your life!

And next to it, a small image with the same stream, but much less water. You could hardly recognize the place. And under it it said:

River current under normal conditions.

Well... if I wanted to go back, I had no choice but to go through it again.

Personal note: Celi, next time, read first.

Following the same procedure as an hour before, we got in up to our knees and, little by little, we advanced towards the opposite shore. We had no problems, as you will have seen in the video, but I don't advise you to take any risks! And, if you do (at your own risk), keep your shoes on. The rocks at the bottom are quite slippery without them.

On the way back we met few people, so we enjoyed it even more than on the way out. And finally, a swim at Kee Beach was the perfect way to end the day. It had all been worth it.

The adventure of others

We came across several hikers returning from the Kalalau Valley. They were brave enough to have completed the adventure. We asked them what they thought of it, and they replied....

Long, tired...

It wasn't until I insisted a little more that they admitted to me that it had been an unforgettable experience.

I remember that a ship captain, a native of the island, told us that he had walked the entire trail 5 or 6 times in his life. He said that every time he finished, he promised himself that he would never do that crazy thing again. It was too hard a route.

And I ask myself: then, why did he come back so many times?

What to bring

Here is a list of basic items to bring during a day trip in the Hanakapiai Valley.

If you are one of the adventurers who are going to complete the entire Kalalau Trail, you will need a much longer list: tent, sleeping bag, headlamp, enough food and water...

• Rain coat and/or rain jacket. To maintain the intense green of these mountains you need liters and liters of water. Therefore, it will be rare that you don't get caught in a downpour. A waterproof jacket will come in handy to cut the wind, maintain the temperature and protect you from the rain. However, when the big downpours start (temporary, don't panic), the cape will be very useful, as it will not only cover you, but also your backpack and your precious photographic equipment.
• Appropriate footwear for mountaineering. I saw several people trekking in flip-flops, and I assure you, they didn't look like they were having a good time. I recommend hiking boots with goretex or similar waterproof technology. You will find it useful when you have to get all the mud stuck to them without getting them wet inside. On the other hand, I saw some tourists wearing different footwear, with the same type of traction on the soles, but open, like these. They are much easier to wash and lightweight - perfect for getting in the river!
• Lightweight clothing. If possible, wear something that dries quickly. In my opinion, shorts will be more comfortable, as they won't get as dirty in the mud, nor will they get wet crossing the river.
• Food and drink. Provide yourself with enough water (1-1.5 liters per person minimum) and food. Drinking water is only available from a fountain next to the toilets at Kee Beach. Honey cereal bars and dried fruit are excellent energy pills that are easy to carry. Add a couple of snacks and some fruit and you are ready for adventure.

Today I have told you how to walk along the Napali coast. But did you know that you can also see it from the heights? And I'm not talking about flying in a helicopter, which is also possible, but walking the dozens of trails that cross the tops of its mountains. If you want to enjoy a little more of this wonder of nature, walk along the Kokee Road and the Awaawapuhi Trail with me.

And if you want all the information I've written about Kauai, here you go:

• 9 days on the road in Kauai, step by step. 
• A practical guide to organizing a trip to Kauai on your own.
• Waimea Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
• Discover the Napali Coast on a luxury boat.
• Kauai's most beautiful beaches: what would you like to do today?
• Awaawapuhi Trail, the Napali Coast at your feet.
• Fly over Kauai in a helicopter... without doors!
• Queen's Bath, forbidden beauty in the Garden of Eden.
• Mahaulepu Trail, hiking, temples, and pristine beaches on Kauai.

Do you want to know another island of Hawaii? Take a look at our experience in Maui:

• 7 day tour of Maui.
• Guide to organizing a trip to Maui on your own.
• The best snorkeling beaches in southern Maui.
• Sighting of humpback whales off the coast of Maui.
• Nightmare before dawn at Haleakala.
• The full description of our experience at O'hoe Gulch and Pipiway Trail.
• 3 days and 2 nights discovering the Road to Hana.

And remember, if you need more information about Hawaii, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll be happy to help you in any way I can.

Useful links

• Official Hawaiian government page on the Kalalau Trail.
• Detail of the route to Hanakapiai Falls.
• Online site to apply for a camping permit.
• Map of the Kalalau Trail.
• Booking offers in Kauai.
• ESTA application.
• International flight deals to Hawaii: Trabber, eDreams, andMomondo.
• Get 5% off your IATI travel insurance.

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