Waimea Canyon: The Grand Canyon of the Pacific in the heart of Hawaii

Also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon in Kauai is one of those natural wonders you simply cannot miss.

We all have some wish waiting to come true, a bucket list of things to do or places to visit before it's too late.

It's time to check it over.

The Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, in Kauai, should not be missing from your list of must-see destinations.

Close your eyes and imagine: volcanic earth, with a thousand reddish shades, opening up beneath your feet like a scar on an old, weathered face marked by the passing years.

It reveals its most secret history, just for your eyes. There are people all around you, lots of cameras, phones, tripods…

Although you feel, for some reason, that they aren't seeing quite the same thing, that a photo doesn't capture its essence.

Only you can set your gaze on every corner of this endless stage, on every wrinkle of this ancient land. So many details that slip past your eyes, like the water from the falls framing its cliffs, sliding inevitably toward the Pacific.

Without a doubt, its sheer immensity will overwhelm you.

Waimea Canyon, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and the Napali Coast are located on Kauai, Hawaii's oldest (visitable) island. Hundreds of years ago its volcanic activity ceased, leaving its topography at the mercy of wind and water. Little by little, over time, it will sink into the sea until nothing is left of it but a sand and reef atoll. We won't be here to see it. Quite the opposite, we're lucky enough to experience its era of splendor.

Next, I'm going to tell you how to access Waimea Canyon and part of the Napali Coast in the most budget-friendly and flexible way of all: Kokee Road, its viewpoints, and its trails.

Kokee Road

Highway 550 or Kokee Road crosses Waimea and Kokee State Parks. This is the kind of road where that car commercial saying do you love driving? actually makes sense.

Gentle asphalt curves cut through reddish, almost Martian terrain. And after every bend, the chance of a new, unforgettable view opens up right by the roadside.

The best option to explore its corners is to rent a car. In the guide to planning a trip to Kauai on your own, I'll show you how to save money doing it.

There's also the option of hiring a guide, but I don't recommend it at all.

Taking an organized tour reduces the time you spend at each viewpoint; limits your freedom to choose where you want to stop more or less to take in the scenery; increases the crowd you'll share each spot with; and, above all, completely strips it of the 'most budget-friendly option' title for exploring this part of the island.

It's just not worth it. Rest assured that you'll want to be the one, and only one, in the driver's seat.

Now, let me share the two non-exclusive options for enjoying these parks.

Viewpoints

These are, in order of arrival, the main viewpoints along the road. I've marked them on the map at the bottom of this page.

You'll also find other alternative spots to pull over and take in the view that aren't signposted. Each one will be magical and will have its own story to tell you.

Would you know how to pick your favorite? I had a hard time deciding.

If you want to enjoy them under clear skies, the best time to visit is before 11 or 12 in the morning.

After that time, the fog is likely to roll in, limiting visibility. But keep in mind that the weather on this island, and especially in these natural parks, is very unpredictable. There are never any guarantees.

Waimea Canyon Lookout

This is the first official stop, right at mile 10. However, I'm sure you'll have already pulled over a couple of times to see the valley carving its path between rock walls, or to photograph a stream shaping the road shoulder along the way.

A right turn leads you to a large parking lot, with restrooms (every viewpoint has them, though they don't get much maintenance) and a stall selling drinks, fruit, and other simple snacks.

Get ready: after a short uphill walk, you're going to enjoy the most complete panoramic view of Waimea Canyon.

Your eyes will get lost in the details, making it impossible to take in the whole picture at once. Your mind will try to piece it together like a collage. The cascades called Waipo’o Falls on the left, hundreds of shades of green in the valleys separating each canyon wall, the layers of rock and sediment stacked upon one another, a testament to the millions of years that shaped this wonder.

And wind—lots of wind—blocking out the sound of the other visitors; leaving room just for you two: you and the canyon at your feet.

Keep an eye out for local wildlife. You're very likely to spot mountain goats at the base of the lookout. Maybe one of them will be staring off into the distance, just like you. It seems the canyon has that effect on them, too.

There are beautiful birds flying around. A little gray bird with a red head, always seen in pairs and quite bold, completely stole our hearts.

What you'll definitely come across, especially around the parking lot, are Hawaii's wild chickens: Moa. The male's bright colors really catch your eye. And, if you're lucky, you'll spot tiny chicks scurrying aimlessly after their mothers, tourists, or cars.

Even though there's plenty of space, it tends to be packed with people (and rightfully so). Either way, in November 2016, when we visited, the tourist crowds were low, not overwhelming at all.

Puu Ka Pele Lookout

The panorama is a bit more limited from this overlook, but it offers the closest view of Waipo’o Falls. Its parking lot is at mile 13, on the left side of the road, meaning you have to cross over to access it.

Puu Hinahina Lookout

This is the third and final viewpoint facing Waimea Canyon. It sits between miles 13 and 14 along the road, with a fairly large parking area and fewer crowds than the Waimea Canyon Lookout.

The scenery is just as gorgeous, though a little less panoramic.

Kalalau Lookout

It's located at mile 18, to the left.  It's the very first one to offer views of the Napali coast, specifically, the famous Kalalau Valley. However, it's not the most spectacular view of this valley.

I recommend keeping going until the next and final lookout.

Puu O Kila Lookout

The road ends at mile 19. Here you'll find the best perspective of Kalalau Valley.

Don't just walk up to the railing of the lookout itself, as the view is slightly blocked from there. I recommend venturing a few meters along the rugged dirt path, which marks the start of the Pihea Trail.

Be careful. The ground gets very slippery when wet, and it most likely will be.  Approach the edge cautiously, but don't get too close.

And, if the weather cooperates:

Enjoy one of the most stunning sights you will ever see.

A lush green valley carved between dreamlike mountains, stretching from your feet all the way to an endless sea, sweeping you right along with it.

This is the spot in the park where it really pays to arrive early, even though it's the furthest of them all.

By midday, the valley usually fills with fog, making it impossible to see a thing.

Either way, don't leave right away. The wind will shift the clouds and change the colors and light. Soak it in for a bit—you're in one of the most beautiful (and wettest!) places in the world.

Here’s a video compilation of all the breathtaking views from many of these lookouts. If they look gorgeous on video, imagine how they'll make you feel in person…

Hiking Trails

Both parks are packed with trails of varying difficulty levels and lengths. After reading a lot, I selected the ones below based on our experience as hikers, with moderate to high difficulty and a distance of no more than 12 kilometers round-trip.

Even though we visited the park three separate times during our stay, we only managed to hike one of them: the Awaawapuhi Trail. This was largely due to the rough weather in November.

If you want to check out other options, you can take a look at this page or this one, both in English. I also recommend checking out the State of Hawaii official hiking website. There you can check whether the trail you're interested in is currently open.

However, the most up-to-date and useful information can be found right on-site at the Kokee Natural History Museum, between miles 15 and 16. They'll let you know which trails are open and share the local weather forecast. Right next door, you'll also find the only bar/restaurant in the park.

Cliff and Canyon Trail

• The easiest way to reach them is by parking along the road, across from Halemanu Road, at mile 14 (I've marked the spot on the map at the bottom of this page).
• From there, you need to hike down that road (4x4 vehicles only). Shortly after starting the trail, you'll hit an intersection where they split.
• The Cliff Trail is the shorter option, branching off to the right. In total, it's 1.8 miles round-trip (3 km), and 1 hour will be plenty of time to hike it.
• The so-called Canyon Trail branches off to the left and is 4 miles round-trip (6.5 km) in total. Set aside about 2 to 3 hours to complete it. Although it leads to the top of Waipo’o Falls, you can't actually see the falls themselves—they remain hidden beneath the mountain right under your feet.

Both offer spectacular views, from different angles, of the very same canyon you see from the first three lookouts.

Alternatively, you can access them from the Puu O Kila Lookout parking lot. This route is tougher, especially on the way back, since it starts at a higher elevation. That said, they say it's even more scenic.

Nualolo Trail

• This trail starts at the parking area right before the entrance to the Kokee Natural History Museum, between miles 15 and 16.
• It covers 7.6 miles round-trip (12 km), descending 435 meters down to the viewpoint known as Lolo Vista n.2. It offers unforgettable views of Nualolo Valley along the Napali Coast.
• About half of the trail winds through shaded forest.
• It is considered strenuous, and you should set aside 5 hours to complete it.

Awaawapuhi Trail

• You'll find a parking area near mile 17 where this trail begins.
• It's 6.2 miles round-trip (10 km) descending a total of 360 m down towards the Nualolo Valley.
• It has a moderate-to-high difficulty level, and you should plan on about 4 hours to do it.

Due to limited time and opportunities, this was the only trek we were able to complete. If you want to know how it went and get more practical tips about it, check out the blog post where I share our adventure on the Awaawapuhi Trail.

Pihea-Alakai Swamp Trail

• The trail begins at the last lookout on the road, Puu O Kila Lookout. You can find a detailed map of the route here.
• It combines the start of the Pihea Trail (the first two miles) and the end of the Alakai Swamp Trail (the last two miles).
• It spans a total of 8 miles round-trip (13 km) and takes you past two scenic viewpoints:
  • Pihea Vista: Said to be one of the finest views of Kalalau Valley.
  • Kilohana Lookout: From where you can even spot beautiful Hanalei Bay far in the distance.

Practical Tips

What to bring

Here is a list of essential gear that should always accompany you during your visit to Waimea Canyon & Napali Coast:

• Rain poncho and/or waterproof jacket. Kauai is home to the second wettest spot on Earth, Mount Waialeale. So, it would be quite rare to visit without getting caught in a downpour or two. A waterproof jacket is great for cutting the wind, keeping you warm, and shielding you from light rain. However, when heavy downpours hit (they're brief, don't worry), a poncho comes in super handy, as it protects not just you, but also your backpack and precious camera gear. We made great use of both.
• Proper hiking footwear. I saw plenty of people hiking in flip-flops, and trust me, they didn't look like they were having much fun. I recommend hiking boots with Gore-Tex or similar waterproof technology. This will be a lifesaver when you need to scrape off all the caked-on mud without getting the inside soaked… Speaking from experience here. I also noticed some travelers wearing shoes with sturdy hiking soles that were somewhat open, like these. They are much easier to rinse clean, lightweight, and ideal for warm climates like Hawaii. If I were going back right now (I wish!), I'd grab a pair of shoes like that without a second thought.
• Lightweight clothing. If possible, wear quick-drying fabrics. In my opinion, shorts are much more comfortable since they won't get as muddy as long pants.
• Food and drinks. If you're going hiking, pack plenty of water (at least 1-1.5 liters per person) and snacks. You won't find drinking water in the restrooms. Also, the only nearby spots to buy food and drinks are a small stand at Waimea Canyon Lookout and the restaurant next to the museum, where prices will be steep and options limited. It's much better to pack everything ahead of time. Honey cereal bars and nuts are awesome, easy-to-carry energy boosts. Add a couple of sandwiches and some fresh fruit, and you'll be set for adventure.

What Not to Bring

In Hawaii, just like almost anywhere else in the world, car break-ins happen. Kokee Road is a prime example. Here are the precautions you should keep in mind to keep your belongings safe:

• Never leave your luggage or valuables inside a parked car. Take everything with you.
• Don't leave a single item in plain sight, no matter how insignificant it seems. You'd just be tempting fate.
• Don't park in lots where you see broken glass on the ground. That's the universe giving you a clear sign.
• If, for some strange reason, you need to leave something valuable in the trunk (which I strongly advise against), don't open it in the parking lot. Stash everything securely before leaving your accommodation and don't open it again. While on the road, act as if you're carrying nothing at all. This might work if you're only stopping at viewpoints for a few minutes. However, it's high risk if you're leaving the car parked while heading out on a long hike.

For us, following the first three tips listed above kept our car safe from break-ins. But then again, it's always a matter of luck.

Useful links

• Booking deals in Kauai.
• ESTA application.
• International flight deals to Hawaii: Trabber, eDreams and Momondo.
• 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

If you want more info on Kauai, here are the rest of the articles covering our adventure across the island:

• 9-day Kauai road trip, step by step.
• Practical guide to organizing your own trip to Kauai.
• Discover the Napali Coast on a luxury boat.
• Kalalau Trail, Kauai's most demanding trek.
• Kauai's most beautiful beaches: what are you in the mood for today?
• Awaawapuhi Trail, the Napali Coast at your feet.
• Fly over Kauai in a helicopter… with no doors!
• Queen’s Bath, forbidden beauty in the Garden of Eden.
• Mahaulepu Trail, hiking, temples, and pristine beaches in Kauai.

Want to explore another Hawaiian island? Check out our experience in Maui:

• 7-day Maui road trip.
• Guide to planning a DIY trip to Maui.
• The best snorkeling beaches in South Maui.
• Humpback whale watching off the coast of Maui.
• A nightmare before dawn at Haleakala.
• The full description of our experience at O’hoe Gulch and Pipiway Trail.
• 3 days and 2 nights exploring the Road to Hana.

And remember, if you need any extra tips on Hawaii, feel free to drop a comment below. I'd love to help you out however I can.

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