Waimea Canyon: The Grand Canyon of the Pacific in the heart of Hawaii

Also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon on Kauai is one of those natural wonders you can't miss.

We all have some wish waiting to come true, some list of things to do or places to visit before it's too late.

It is time for you to review it.

The Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon, in Kauai, should not be missing in your selection of must-see destinations.

Close your eyes and imagine: volcanic earth, in a thousand reddish tones, opening up under your feet, like a scar on an old and weather-beaten complexion.

Uncover their most secret story, for your eyes only. There are people around you, lots of cameras, cell phones, tripods...

Although you feel, for some reason, that they don't see exactly the same thing, that a photo doesn't capture their essence.

Only you can fix your pupil in every corner of this infinite scenery, in every wrinkle of this old woman. So many details that escape before your eyes, like the water of the waterfalls that outline their cliffs, sliding hopelessly towards the Pacific.

Undoubtedly, you will be overwhelmed by its immensity.

Waimea Canyon, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and the Napali Coast, are located on Kauai, the oldest (visitable) island of Hawaii. Many hundreds of years ago its volcanic activity died out, leaving its orography at the mercy of wind and water. Little by little, with the passage of time, it will sink into the sea until only an atoll of sand and reef remains. We will not be here to see it. On the contrary, we are fortunate to live in its time of splendor.

Here I am going to tell you how to access Waimea Canyon and part of the Napali Coast in the most economical and flexible way of all: the Kokee Road, its viewpoints and trails.

Kokee Road

Highway 550 or Kokee Road runs through Waimea and Kokee State Parks. This is the kind of road where the automobile advertisement that read. do you like to drive?makes sense.

Smooth asphalt curves cut through a reddish, almost Martian terrain. And after every angle, the possibility of a new unforgettable view opens up along the shoulder.

The best option to explore its corners is to rent a car. In the guide to organize a trip to Kauai on your own, I describe how to save money doing it.

There is also the possibility of hiring a guide, but I do not recommend it at all.

Taking an organized tour decreases the time you spend at each viewpoint; limits your freedom of choice on where you want to stop more or less to admire the scenery; increases the number of people you will share each place with; and, above all, will eliminate the qualification of 'cheapest option' to discover this area of the island.

It's not worth it. Rest assured that you will want to be the one, and only you, who takes the reins.

Now I will tell you about the two non-exclusive options to enjoy these parks.

Viewpoints

These are, in order of arrival, the main viewpoints along the road. I have marked them on the map at the bottom of this page.

You will also find other alternative places to stop and enjoy the scenery, not signposted. Each of them will be magical and will tell you something different.

Would you choose your favorite? I had a hard time deciding.

If you want to enjoy them with clear skies, the best time to visit them is before 11 or 12 am.

After that time, the fog is likely to increase, limiting visibility. But keep in mind that the weather on this island, and especially in these natural parks, is highly variable. There are never any guarantees.

Waimea Canyon Lookout

This is the first official stop, at mile 10. However, I'm sure you've already stopped a couple of times to watch the valley winding its way between rock walls, or to photograph a creek that is shaping the shoulder of the road as it flows by.

A detour to the right leads you to a large parking lot, with restrooms (all the viewpoints have them, although they receive little maintenance) and a stand where they offer drinks, fruits and other simple food.

Get ready, after climbing a small hill, you will enjoy the most complete panoramic view of Waimea Canyon.

Your eyes will get lost in the details, making it impossible to remember the whole. Your mind will try to create a picture out of scraps. The waterfalls called Waipo'o Falls on the left, hundreds of shades of green in the valleys that separate each canyon wall, the streaks of rock and sediment, one on top of the other, testament to the millions of years that formed this wonder.

And wind, lots of wind, isolating your ears from the rest of the visitors; leaving space only for you: you and the canyon at your feet.

Keep an eye out for wildlife. It is very likely that you will see mountain goats at the foot of the viewpoint. Maybe some of them are looking at infinity, like you. It seems that the canyon also produces that effect on them.

There are beautiful birds, flying around. A small gray specimen with a red head, always in pairs and quite cheeky, stole our hearts.

What you are sure to find, especially around the parking lot, are Hawaii's wild chickens: Moa. The vivid colors of the male attract a lot of attention. And, if you're lucky, you'll come across little chicks, running without much direction or distinction after their mothers, tourists or cars.

Although there is plenty of space in it, it is usually crowded (not to be outdone). In any case, in November 2016, when we visited, the influx of tourists was low, by no means overwhelming.

Puu Ka Pele Lookout

The panoramic view is somewhat more limited from this balcony, but it offers the closest perspective to Waipo'o Falls. Its parking lot is located at mile 13, on the left side of the road, forcing you to cross the road to access it.

Puu Hinahina Lookout

This lookout is the third and final lookout to Waimea Canyon. It is located between miles 13 and 14 of the trail, with plenty of parking area and less crowded than Waimea Canyon Lookout.

The scenery is equally beautiful, although less panoramic.

Kalalau Lookout

It is located at mile 18, to the left. It is the first of these to offer views of the Napali coast, specifically the so-called Kalalau Valley. However, it is not the most spectacular scene in this valley.

I recommend that you continue to the next and last viewpoint.

Puu O Kila Lookout

At mile 19 the road ends. Here you will find the best perspective of the Kalalau Valley.

Don't go just to the fence of the viewpoint itself, as the view is somewhat cut off from there. I recommend going a few meters into the rugged dirt trail, which is the start of the Pihea Trail.

Be careful. The terrain is very slippery if it is wet, and it probably will be. Approach the edge with caution, not too much.

And, inclement weather permitting:

Enjoy one of the most beautiful views you have ever seen.

A green valley cut between unreal mountains, stretching from your feet to an infinite sea, transporting you with it.

This is the point in the park where it is worth arriving the earliest, even though it is the farthest of all.

In the middle of the day, the valley is usually filled with mist, making it impossible to see anything.

Anyway, don't leave right away. The wind will move the clouds and change the hues. Enjoy a bit, you are in one of the most beautiful (and humid!) places in the world.

Here is a video compilation of all the views that will take your breath away from many of these viewpoints. If you find them beautiful on video, imagine what they could make you feel live and direct...

Trekking Trails

Both parks are full of trails with different levels of difficulty and length. After a lot of reading, I selected the following trails according to our experience as mountaineers, with moderate or high difficulty and length no more than 12 kilometers round trip.

Although we visited the park on three separate occasions during our stay, we only managed to hike one of them: the Awaawapuhi Trail. This was largely due to inclement weather in November.

If you want to know other possibilities, you can have a look at this page or this one. I also recommend you to visit the official website of the state of Hawaii about hiking. There you can check if the trail you are interested in is still open or not.

However, the most up-to-date and useful information can be found right there, at the Kokee Natural History Museum, between miles 15 and 16, where they will tell you which route is open and the weather forecast for those days. Next to it you will find the only bar/restaurant in the park.

Cliff and Canyon Trail

• The easiest way to access them is to park on the side of the road opposite Halemanu Road at mile 14 (I have marked the position on the map at the bottom of this page).
• From there, you must walk down the path (only suitable for 4×4 cars). Shortly after starting the trail, you will find an intersection where they separate.
• The Cliff Trail is the shortest option, and veers off to the right. In total, it is 1.8 miles i/v (3 kms), and 1 hour is enough time to cover it.
• The so-called Canyon Trail turns off to the left and consists, in total, of 4 miles i/v (6.5 kms). Set aside about 2 to 3 hours to do it. Although it reaches the top of the Waipo'o falls, these are not seen, they are hidden under the mountain at your feet.

Both offer spectacular views, from different angles, of the same canyon you see from the first three viewpoints.

Alternatively, you can access them from the parking lot of Puu O Kila Lookout. This trail is harder, especially on the way back, as it starts from a higher altitude. Despite this, however, it is said to be more beautiful.

Nualolo trail

• This trail departs from the parking lot just before the entrance to the Kokee Natural History Museum, between miles 15 and 16.
• It runs 7.6 miles i/v (12 kms), descending 435 meters to the balcony called Lolo Vista n.2. It offers unforgettable views of the Nualolo valley, on the Napali coast.
• Approximately half of it takes place under the shade of the trees.
• It is considered of high difficulty and you should reserve 5 hours to do it.

Awaawapuhi Trail

• You will find a parking lot near mile 17 from which this trail starts.
• It is 6.2 miles i/v (10 kms) descending a total of 360 m to the Nualolo Valley. Nualolo Valley.
• It has a medium-high level of difficulty and you should set aside about 4 hours to do it.

This, due to lack of time and opportunities, was the only trekking we were able to do. If you want to know how it went and more practical details about it, take a look at the blog post where I tell you about our adventure on the Awaawapuhi Trail..

Pihea-Alakai Swap Trail

• The trail starts at the last viewpoint on the road, Puu O Kila Lookout. Here you can find a detailed map of the route.
• It is a combination of the beginning of the Pihea (first two miles) and the end of the Alakai Swap Trail (last two miles).
• It consists of a total of 8 miles i/v (13 kms) and passes through two scenic areas:
  • Pihea ViewPihea Vista: Reputedly one of the best views in the Kalalua Valley.
  • Kilohana LookoutKilohana Lookout: From here you can even see the beautiful Hanaley Bay in the distance.

Practical advice

What to bring

Here is a list of basic items that should always accompany you during your visit to Waimea Canyon & Napali Coast:

• Rain coat and/or rain jacket. Kauai is the second wettest spot on the planet, Mount Waialeale. Therefore, it will be very rare that you pass through here and you don't get caught in a downpour. A waterproof jacket will come in handy to cut the wind, keep you warm and protect you from the rain. However, when the big downpours start (temporary, don't panic), the cape will be very useful, as it will not only cover you, but also your backpack and your precious photographic equipment. We made good use of both.
• Appropriate footwear for mountaineering. I saw many people trekking in flip-flops, and I assure you, they didn't look like they were having a good time. I recommend hiking boots with goretex or similar waterproof technology. This will be very useful when you have to get all the mud stuck to them without getting them wet inside... I tell you from experience. I also saw some tourists wearing a type of footwear with soles suitable for walking in those places, but open to some extent, like these. They are much easier to wash, lightweight and suitable for warm environments like Hawaii. If I were to go there again right now (I wish!), I would get a pair of these shoes without hesitation.
• Lightweight clothing. If possible, wear something that dries quickly. In my opinion, shorts will be more comfortable, as they will not get as dirty in the mud as long pants.
• Food and drink. If you are going on a hike, bring enough water (1-1.5 liters per person minimum) and food. You will not find drinking water in the restrooms. Also, the only places nearby to buy food and drink are a small stand at the Waimea Canyon Lookout and the restaurant next to the museum, where prices will be high and options limited. It is best to bring everything from home. Honey cereal bars and dried fruit are great easy-to-carry energy pills. Add a couple of snacks and some fruit and you're ready for adventure.

What not to wear

In Hawaii, as almost everywhere else in the world, car break-ins are common. Kokee Road is a good example of this. Here are the steps you should take into account to avoid losing your personal belongings:

• Never leave your luggage or valuables inside a parked car. Take everything with you.
• Don't leave any item, no matter how insignificant, out of sight. You will be tempting fate.
• Don't park in parking lots where there is already broken glass on the ground. The world is giving you a sign.
• If, for some strange reason, you need to leave something of value in the trunk (I do not recommend it at all), do not open it in the parking lot. Leave everything well stored in it before leaving your accommodation and do not open it again. On the road, behave as if you are not carrying anything. This may work if you are only stopping at viewpoints for a few minutes. However, it is high risk if you are going to leave the car parked while on a long hiking route.

For us, following the first three tips listed above, we did not have our car opened. But again, it's a matter of luck.

Useful Links

• Booking offers in Kauai.
• ESTA application.
• International flight deals to Hawaii: Trabber, eDreams, andMomondo.
• Get 5% off your IATI travel insurance.

If you want more information about Kauai, here are the rest of the articles about our adventure on the island:

• 9 days on the road in Kauai, step by step. 
• A practical guide to organizing a trip to Kauai on your own.
• Discover the Napali Coast on a luxury boat.
• Kalalau Trail, Kauai's most challenging hike.
• Kauai's most beautiful beaches: what would you like to do today?
• Awaawapuhi Trail, the Napali Coast at your feet.
• Fly over Kauai in a helicopter... without doors!
• Queen's Bath, forbidden beauty in the Garden of Eden.
• Mahaulepu Trail, hiking, temples, and pristine beaches on Kauai.

Do you want to know another island of Hawaii? Take a look at our experience in Maui:

• 7 day tour of Maui.
• Guide to organizing a trip to Maui on your own.
• The best snorkeling beaches in southern Maui.
• Sighting of humpback whales off the coast of Maui.
• Nightmare before dawn at Haleakala.
• The full description of our experience at O'hoe Gulch and Pipiway Trail.
• 3 days and 2 nights discovering the Road to Hana.

And remember, if you need more information about Hawaii, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll be happy to help you in any way I can.

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