Thanks to its environmental conservation policy and the allocation of dozens of national parks and protected areas within its small territory, Costa Rica is a true paradise for any nature and adventure lover.
Plus, its location between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, along with its compact size, makes it possible to enjoy many of this country's wonders without having to travel long distances.
Costa Rica is a country totally geared towards tourism and very safe for foreign visitors.
If you're a Spanish speaker and don't speak a second language, this is a perfect option to explore another country—gorgeous and very different from your own (as long as you're not Costa Rican!)—without the barrier of not mastering English. Prices are neither high nor low.
Actually, we didn't notice any difference compared to those in Spain (in 2009).
When to go
Costa Rica's climate is tropical, with pleasant temperatures all year round (21º-27ºC on average), except in the mountain ranges where it's a bit cooler.
It has a dry season, from December to April, and a rainy season or "green season" from May to November. If you want to get around the country in your own vehicle or by public transport, I'd recommend avoiding the rainy season, as some roads might get cut off due to heavy downpours.
There are certain areas, like Tortuguero National Park, where rain is common throughout the whole year. In any case, no matter when you go, come prepared with good waterproof footwear, like hiking boots, and a strong mosquito repellent to protect you from bugs.
You might also want to keep Costa Rica's wildlife calendar in mind. For example, on the Caribbean coast, leatherback turtle nesting runs from March to June, while green turtles nest from July to October. On the Pacific coast, however, leatherback nesting happens from November to mid-February.
We visited Costa Rica in December 2009, during the dry season, and the weather was perfect. It rained on a few days, but not enough to ruin the experience.
It's possible that some of the accommodations or services I mention below have changed owners or simply disappeared. So, it's best to check updated prices, the latest traveler reviews, etc., using the links I've left for you on this page.
In any case, the route we took and the national parks we visited are still right there, even more beautiful than ever, if that's possible. We can't wait to go back.
Getting Around
In general, you'll be able to travel around almost all of Costa Rica by car, even better if it's a 4×4. That's how we did almost the entire trip, and I think it was a fantastic choice.
I recommend that, in addition to getting a 4×4, you rent it with full comprehensive insurance. Many roads aren't paved, and during rainy periods, you could end up half-stuck in a puddle of mud and water. Having great coverage through your insurance will save you unexpected expenses during the trip.
We rented a Daihatsu Terios 4×4 for 15 days with full comprehensive insurance from the company Wild Rider in San José. The car—small but perfectly sized for two people—was in good shape, and the info and service we received were great. Almost all rental companies block an amount on your credit card (in our case, 900$) as a security deposit until you return the vehicle.
Our route
San José
Arriving in San José on a direct flight from Madrid, we bought our taxi voucher (26$/2 people) to our San José hotel at an official desk right at the airport. The taxi was actually a van that we shared with four other tourists. We were the last ones to reach our destination, an hour and a half, a thousand honks, and a few near-misses later. The traffic in San José was genuinely crazy.
We had booked one night at hotel Villa Tournón for 47 euros. The room was clean, although you could hear quite a bit of street noise and the food was very pricey. Breakfast was okay, and they kindly held onto most of our luggage for two days in their storage room while we visited Tortuguero.
Tortuguero
Tortuguero is a national park on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast that can only be reached by boat or plane. So, we decided to check out this area first and rent the 4x4 after this initial visit. To do this, we booked a 2-night/3-day tour with the Laguna Lodge complex, which includes a guide, tours through the park, lodging, and meals throughout the whole trip.
The van picked us up early in the morning at the hotel. Our guide, Yuri, told us all about the country's environmental policy, the "pura vida" battle cry, and Costa Rican coffee, among other things. He also took us to see the banana plantations and the harvesting and packaging facilities. They fed us breakfast along the way (gallo pinto, mmm… absolutely delicious!).
At midday, we arrived at the dock, where we caught a boat to the Laguna Lodge hotel. The boat ride takes an hour and a half and cruises along the spectacular Tortuguero park canals winding through the jungle.
The hotel is fantastic. They gave us a gorgeous wooden cabin with its own bathroom and a couple of rocking chairs on the front porch. It has a perfect pool right in the middle of the jungle garden, a frog breeding area, and the food at the restaurant (included in the tour price) was delicious. Highly recommended.
That afternoon, after lunch, they took us to visit the town of Tortuguero (by boat, always with the same group and guide). On the way back, however, we walked along the Caribbean beach. The sky was gray and rainy, and the sea quite rough, as you can see in the photos, but the temperature felt like summer, and it was pretty humid. Turtle season had already ended, so we didn't get to see any nesting or hatchlings.
That night, after a heavy downpour, we went on a guided night walk looking for toads and frogs, with pretty good luck.
On the second day, we did two boat tours—one before breakfast and another after—through various types of canals. During these rides, we saw hundreds of birds, like white, black, gray, green, and blue herons, the occasional kingfisher, "piano" ducks, etc. Plus, we spotted several groups of howler monkeys, spider monkey families, iguanas, very photogenic basilisks, and… 3 caimans! All in a single morning. It was simply spectacular.
After lunch, following a dip in the pool, we met up with our guide again for a stroll through the botanical garden. Yuri gave us all kinds of info about the local flora and fauna. To be honest, we were super lucky with our guide—he was an absolute delight. Just make sure to keep your bug spray handy; clothes won't be enough to keep them away at dusk.
On the third and final day, after breakfast, we started making our way back through the canals towards San José. Despite the nearly constant rain during our visit to Tortuguero, we loved this park. And the tour, guide, and services offered by the hotel Laguna Lodge were top quality, in my opinion.
Alajuela
The van dropped us back off at hotel Villa Tournón, where we had arranged to meet the Wild Rider rep. We picked up our bags and headed to the agency with him on Paseo Colón. Everything went smoothly, the car was in great shape even though it wasn't new, and the guy gave us heaps of maps and useful info.
Our goal was not to spend a single extra second in San José, which had insane traffic, so as soon as we left the agency, we headed towards Alajuela, a much calmer town just outside the capital. This was where the real adventure began, since we had nothing else booked and the only things we had to guide us through the country were the maps provided with the 4x4 and the Lonely Planet Costa Rica guide.
We looked for a room at Hotel 1915, but it was fully booked. We had better luck with our second choice, the B&B Pacande, and it was a total hit (50$/couple/night). The facilities at this inn are great and the delicious breakfast is served in a charming indoor courtyard garden.
In my opinion, the best part is how the owner treats you—super attentive and always ready to share valuable tips for your trip. We liked it so much that we booked a room for our last day in the country, before catching our flight. Following his advice, we had dinner that night at the restaurant Jalapeños Central, which was super tasty and affordable.
Arenal Volcano
The next day, we headed towards Arenal Volcano, crossing the fog-filled fields near Ciudad Quesada
As we approached Arenal, watching it emerge against the sky was magical. In 2009, the volcano was active. We saw smoke rising from its crater during our stay in the area, though no eruptions occurred. Sometimes, the cone was completely covered in clouds; other times, we were luckier and got to see it almost clear. However, no more explosions have been sighted since the end of 2010. It seems that, since then, the volcano has entered a resting phase, and only occasional gas vents can be seen.
We stayed at Las Cabinitas del Castillo Dorado, which, as we've been told, has changed owners and is now called Hotel El Castillo.
In any case, we loved this place. The facilities are very simple and unpretentious, not particularly new or renovated, but its location is priceless. Each cabin has a large window facing the volcano that takes up almost the entire wall, so you can enjoy stunning views right from your bed.
That afternoon we took the opportunity to visit La Fortuna waterfall, gorgeous, though you'd better be prepared to go up and down 300 very steep steps.
And to top off the day, we paid a visit to the Tabacón hot springs. It's a 4-star spa hotel. Although we didn't stay there, we were able to buy 2-day passes at the entrance of the hot springs for $45/person. I promise you, it was totally worth it.
Inside the property, right in the heart of the jungle under the open sky, you'll find plenty of pools of various sizes, some artificial, others natural. They sit layered one above the other, following the descent, through small waterfalls, of a thermal spring that comes boiling out of the earth.
Depending on the pool, the water could be so hot that you couldn't last more than 2 minutes inside. In other cases, the temperature was milder. There was something for every taste and mood, with no crowds at all. And all of this surrounded by lush vegetation and aerial roots creating patterns in the air. I have to say that “Tabacón, Tabacón, Tabacón!” became our synonym for “Pura Vida,” and even today, it brings a smile to my face every time I say it.
The next day, instead of entering Arenal Volcano National Park, we decided to visit the Observatory (you can see its location on the map at the bottom of this page) and do the hike up Cerro Chato inside it, an extinct volcano featuring a lake inside its crater (where you can swim).
To do this somewhat demanding trek, which takes about 4 hours in total, you can follow the signs you'll find as you make your way through a beautiful, though dense, rainforest. Make sure to bring enough water for the hike up this volcano.
We also visited the waterfalls located inside the park. Along the trail, we spotted plenty of wildlife: coatis, howler monkeys, frogs, toucans, huge butterflies and caterpillars, hummingbirds, and the jewel in the crown: an ocelot! This is a wild cat similar to a jaguar, but much smaller. It was an adult female that had grown up roaming free in the natural park thanks to the care of the park rangers.
As we were told, she had left a while ago; however, she had just returned with a couple of cubs, most likely seeking the safety offered by the park and its rangers. She even let us pet her (at this point we took a bit of a risk, I must admit, since they are wild animals!). We were so lucky to cross paths with her, one of those experiences that stays etched in your memory forever.
We ended the day with a well-deserved rest at the Tabacón hot springs. It started raining quite heavily, which allowed us to experience a lovely contrast in temperature, with our bodies soaked in hot water while the rain cooled down our faces. The perfect treatment to unwind before going to sleep.
Monteverde
Our next goal was to see the Monteverde forest just like the country's monkeys do, swinging from tree to tree. So we set off for Santa Elena along the road that circles Lake Arenal, which is gorgeous. On the way, we stopped for a delicious breakfast at the German Bakery.
We stayed at the B&B Mariposa, some lovely and very peaceful wooden cabins surrounded by nature. A special mention goes to the place's amazing breakfast, which includes gallo pinto, fruit, eggs, and freshly made homemade pancakes.
In Costa Rica, it's a tradition for the cleaners to fold clean towels into shapes on the bed and decorate their works of art with flowers. It's customary to leave them a tip for these little touches. And at this B&B, I assure you they earned that tip big time—what dedication! It was a true pleasure to walk into the room after they had been there.
In Santa Elena, we decided on our adventure for the next day: canopy (or zipline) + hanging bridges with the company Selvatura. We booked it at the Santa Elena hostel, where they were really nice to us.
The next day, the Selvatura van picked us up at 7:30 in the morning and took us to the cloud forest. There, they gear you up with harnesses, helmets, brake gloves, and… off to glide from tree to tree!
It was super fun and beautiful, as well as suitable for everyone. It's not difficult at all and you always feel safe; they are very professional. The walk along the hanging bridges was really lovely, but we hardly saw any animals due to the noise made by the ziplines.
That night we went on a night tour through the Children's Eternal Rainforest. We didn't see many animals, except for 2 tarantulas… As someone who isn't a big fan of arachnids, I didn't enjoy it all that much. However, the guide shared interesting information, and the entrance fee goes towards the park's conservation. It wasn't the highlight of the trip.
To eat in Santa Elena, I recommend the restaurant De Lucía and Stella’s Bakery, featuring a very diverse bird population in its backyard, each one more beautiful than the last.
Manuel Antonio Park
The next day, on our way to Manuel Antonio, we stopped over the Tárcoles River to look down from the bridge at the huge crocodiles that inhabit the area. There were dozens of them, sunbathing on the riverbanks. They looked like they were posing.
You can park just before it, in a designated area (you can see it on the map at the bottom of this post), and walk toward the bridge to see them. The crocodiles themselves aren't dangerous, unless you decide to jump (I don't recommend it!). But we had been warned that break-ins and theft from cars parked there are common.
Just as advised, we parked and took turns heading to the river one by one, while the other stayed inside the car the entire time. That way, we enjoyed the views without any unwanted incidents.
In Manuel Antonio, we stayed at the budget-friendly hostel Vista Serena, which boasts some breathtaking sunsets. Just be prepared to run from the army of mosquitoes that emerges when the sun goes down.
It's quite a noisy hostel, popular among young people looking to party at night. So, if you value a quiet night's sleep, I wouldn't recommend it. We only stayed for 2 nights instead of 3 for this reason. If you want to enjoy the sunset, you can also head to Ronny’s Place.
You can reach Manuel Antonio Park by car. There's a parking lot at the entrance with good daily rates. And if that one is full, just before the entrance you'll find plenty of others, closer to the beach, which are also reasonably priced (I've marked a few on the map at the end of this post).
Along the road leading up to the park, you might run into people trying to stop you, telling you to park right there on the roadside because there are no spots further ahead. Don't believe them, they'll just rip you off for a few extra dollars. Keep driving to the park entrance, and if you can't find a spot there, head back slowly toward the beach.
We visited Manuel Antonio Park for 2 days, and it was totally worth it. On the first afternoon, we explored on our own and spotted howler and capuchin monkeys, a young deer, and raccoons, among others.
Manuel Antonio beach is spectacular—a true natural paradise with warm, clean, and crystal-clear water. Just keep an eye out so the capuchin monkeys and raccoons don't steal anything from your bag when you go into the water. They are professional thieves! But very fun to watch, that's for sure.
On the second day, we hired a guide at the park entrance who took us along the same trail we had previously walked, revealing many more of the park's secrets. He had a trained eye and a great spotting scope you could hold your camera lens up to for photos (this was one of our early trips, we didn't have that much zoom yet!).
This way, on this walk we saw crabs, grasshoppers, lizards, an eyelash viper, woodpeckers, more monkeys, raccoons, and three-toed and two-toed sloths! All thanks to the scope and the guide's sharp eyes.
Afterwards, we wandered off on our own toward less crowded beaches in the park. Not quite as pretty as the main one, although we did see iguanas and another (green) snake along the way.
The main beach, Manuel Antonio, topped off a wonderful day once again—what a beauty!
Rafting in Turrialba
After 2 nights in Manuel Antonio, a place I definitely have to return to!, we set off for Turrialba to go rafting on the river of the same name. We drove past the Talamanca mountain range along the Inter-American Highway… watch out for reckless truck drivers!
Turrialba isn't a particularly pleasant or appealing town, in my opinion. The hotels are much more expensive and/or of lower quality than those we had found throughout the rest of the trip.
We decided to stay for a couple of nights at Hotel Wagelia, a bit pricier though less 'noisy' than others we considered in the same town. At the hotel itself, we booked our rafting for the next day with the company Ticos River.
The tour included round-trip van transportation to the river and a really good meal halfway through the trip. I had never been rafting before, so I was a bit apprehensive about this activity.
But it was super fun and not dangerous at all.
As soon as we got onto the raft, our guide, Giovani, made us jump into the water one by one to practice how to rescue a teammate and avoid panicking if you fell in later on. Luckily, that didn't happen—that was the only time we swam in the river during the entire run.
By the way, wear shoes that dry easily afterwards, because you'll go into the water with them! Plus, on the way down, the rapid water splashes you (to put it mildly) the whole time. You end up completely soaked, but super happy!
Besides being fun, the route is gorgeous. One of the most scenic rafting trips in the world, according to the company. And I wouldn't dare disagree with them. However, this is the only reason to visit Turrialba. If you aren't planning to go rafting, I don't recommend stopping here.
As for food, I can only tell you where not to eat: Bar La Garza. They served us meat or fish (I couldn't really tell which) that had gone bad.
Cahuita and Manzanillo: Costa Rica's Caribbean
After 2 days in Turrialba, we set off for Cahuita and Manzanillo, where we would spend 5 nights.
The first two were at Playa Chiquita Lodge, which is pretty good and well priced ($50/night/2 people). It has a private beach, but at least when we were there, it wasn't very appealing. The sea in that area had a lot of rocks and shallow reefs, and the sand was full of sharp coral fragments. We didn't really like it.
On the second day, we found Cabinas Punta Uva, right next to a much nicer beach with fine sand and a nice, wide stretch of sea that made swimming easier and safer, without so many rocks. The accommodation is great, surrounded by nature, and the manager at the time, Lola, treated us wonderfully. If you visit this area, I recommend staying in these cabins ($45/night/2 people).
One day we visited Cahuita National Park, which was an absolute hit. As soon as we arrived at the entrance, we saw a female basilisk burying her eggs in the beach sand. Later, along the park trail, we ran into several sloths that were quite active in the lower tree branches, along with lots of howler monkeys, squirrels, and coatis. The best beach in the park is Playa Blanca—gorgeous, pristine, and perfect for swimming.
We spent the rest of our days relaxing on the local beaches, especially the one in front of Cabinas Punta Uva, and snorkeling in Manzanillo. Snorkeling at the southern end of the beach (I've marked it on the map at the end of this post) is amazing. You can rent snorkel gear at a small shop near Maxi’s.
You'll swim among thousands of blue, red, and yellow fish, pilot fish, angel fish, polka-dot fish, sunfish, manta rays, lobsters... and every color of coral you could ever imagine. Wonderful.
For food, I highly recommend trying the Caribbean coconut chicken and the red snapper at Maxi’s. Delicious! The food at Selvin’s, just steps away from Cabinas Punta Uva, is also very good, as is Amimodo restaurant.
If you want to celebrate a special occasion with a romantic dinner in an exclusive setting, you can check out the restaurant at Shawandha Lodge—a bit pricier, but charming.
Last day in Alajuela and the La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Much to our regret, after five nights in this little slice of the Caribbean, we headed toward Alajuela. That last night, we stayed again at B&B Pacande, and this time we left the car in their private parking lot.
The next morning, before heading to the airport, we visited the La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This private park left us with mixed feelings. It was the moment in our lives when we decided never to visit any kind of zoo again. It had monkeys, toucans, sloths, and even tigers locked in cages, looking sad and lifeless. Seeing that right after watching most of them in the wild was deeply disappointing.
The thrill you feel when you see a wild animal is a thousand times better and more exciting than seeing them in a cage, where they can barely move, run, hide, chase, hunt, or interact...
There is nothing natural about it, and you can tell from the animals' behavior—no longer curious, fierce, playful, or elusive. They are depressed.
However, we also experienced one of the most special moments of the trip inside the gardens. They have an area with hanging sugar-water feeders where hundreds and hundreds of hummingbirds flutter around freely, each one more beautiful than the last.
They even give you flower-shaped hand feeders so you can feed them yourself. And it actually works! A picture is worth a thousand words... it was awesome.
Some would stare right into your eyes to make sure they could trust you. Others darted around your hands with quick, energetic movements. We loved this part.
And from there, off to the airport, where the Wild Rider staff member picked up the car right on time. A wonderful, memorable trip that sparked my love for nature travel.
Our next trip
Costa Rica is an amazing country for animal and nature lovers; it's safe for travelers, easy to get around, and both Spanish and English are spoken.
In particular, we heard wonderful things about the Osa Peninsula, home to Corcovado National Park—a place we didn't have time to visit, but which will definitely be stop number one on a future trip. Think about it: if I'm so sure I'll be back, are you really going to miss it?
Travel insurance
Even though Costa Rica is very safe for tourists, accidents can happen to anyone:
- Maybe some food won't sit well with you, or you'll discover an allergy you didn't know you had.
- You could get a fever or catch a bug that keeps you stuck in bed for a week.
- You might slip and hurt yourself while hiking or climbing stairs.
- Or they might simply lose your luggage at the airport.
You don't want a minor mishap like that—which could easily happen at home—to ruin your amazing trip, the one you've been dreaming about and planning for so long, do you?
In general, whenever you travel abroad, it's always a good idea to have an insurance policy that covers medical expenses and other unexpected events.
My advice:
Get travel insurance with IATI
I always travel with them. But you might wonder, why IATI and not another company?
- They offer several insurance plans: Basic, Standard, Star, Backpacker, and Family. Their comparison tables will help you review all the options and decide which one fits your trip best (destination type, planned activities, etc.).
- IATI covers medical and rescue costs directly. You won't have to pay anything upfront out of pocket or file for a reimbursement later.
- Their prices are very competitive. Specifically, my road trip through Costa Rica cost less than €60 per person. In my opinion, traveling insured and worry-free for nearly three weeks at that price is a steal! What do you think?
- Need another reason? Well, here you go: a 5% discount on any policy you buy through this link.
Can I give you a piece of advice?
Don't take any chances: travel insured, enjoy your adventure, and… come back eager for more!
Still haven't booked your flights to Costa Rica?
I like starting my search on Trabber because the price shown is the final cost (it includes credit card fees and other taxes). That said, I always check deals on eDreams and Momondo as well.
You never know who will have the best deals.😉
When to buy your flights
For international flights, it's worth searching across the 4 search engines above 6-8 months in advance.
Videos
Here you can see some of our most special moments with Costa Rica's wildlife and nature:
- An ocelot at Arenal Volcano.
- Sloths in Cahuita.
- Monkeys in Manuel Antonio.
- Hummingbirds at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens.
- The canals of Tortuguero.
Enjoy them!
If you have any questions or need more details I didn't cover in this post, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll be more than happy to help you out however I can. And don't forget… pura vida!
The Costa Rica PDF Guide
Want to have this Costa Rica itinerary in PDF format?
Subscribe to the newsletter, download it for free, and check it anytime you want:
Useful links
- Other hotel deals in Costa Rica.
- Flights to Costa Rica: Trabber, eDreams, and Momondo.
- 5% discount when booking your adventure travel insurance with IATI.
Hi Celi, First of all, thank you for your post and congratulations on it. It's great. This summer we're going to Costa Rica for 17 days, and here's my plan:
Day – Madrid – San José
Day 2 – Tortuguero
Day 3 – Tortuguero
Day 4 – Tortuguero – San José
Day 5 – Arenal
Day 6 – Arenal
Day 7 – Monteverde
Day 8 – Monteverde
Day 9 – Monteverde
Day 10 – Manuel Antonio
Day 11 – Manuel Antonio
Day 12 – Manuel Antonio
Day 13 – Manuel Antonio – Uvita
Day 14 – Manuel Antonio – Uvita
Day 15 – Corcovado
Day 16 – Corcovado
Day 17- San José – Madrid
Our idea is to travel on our own and, after Tortuguero, rent a car and drive around the country. If you notice, I left out Puerto Viejo and Limón because I read that driving there is a bit of a trek. What do you think of the route? Any recommendations? Where is the best place to rent the car?
Thank you.
Hi, Javier. Thanks a lot for your comment. 🙂
Your route looks great. I'd recommend renting the car in San José when you get back from Tortuguero.
About the route, you know what? I'd take a day off Manuel Antonio or Manuel Antonio-Uvita and add it to Corcovado. In any case, since you'll have a car, you can change your plans on the go (we did it a couple of times). 😉
Big hug and have a fantastic trip!
thanks. and skipping Limón and Puerto Viejo is no big deal if you visit other areas like Corcovado or Uvita, right? How tricky is it to explore the Corcovado area? I read that access and getting there is tough.
You're welcome, Javier.
I'm of the opinion that you can't see everything and see it well. If you skip Puerto Viejo and Limón because you're enjoying another area, that's totally fine, no problem at all. I loved that Caribbean coast, but I was left wanting to see Corcovado, so I guess the opposite will happen to you. 🙂
I know it's trickier to get around Corcovado, but since I haven't been there yet, I can't help you much more, sorry!
Hugs and safe travels. Or even better, ¡pura vida! 😉
Thanks Celi, but after reading up on it, I think we're not going to Corcovado. I know it's really worth it, but access is tough and you must lose a lot of time traveling between places. In the end, I decided on this route. What do you think?
Day 22 – Madrid – San José
Day 23 – Tortuguero
Day 24 – Tortuguero
Day 25 – Tortuguero – Limón
Day 26 – Puerto Viejo
Day 27 – Puerto Viejo
Day 28 – Puerto Viejo
Day 29 – Puerto Viejo-SIQUIRRES- Fortuna Arenal
Day 30 – Arenal
Day 1 – Arenal-Río Celeste – Monteverde
Day 2 – Monteverde
Day 3 – Monteverde
Day 4 – Monteverde – Manuel Antonio
Day 5 – Manuel Antonio
Day 6 – Manuel Antonio
Day 7 – Uvita
Day 8 – Uvita – San José – Madrid
Wonderful. You're going to enjoy it so much, I'm sure. 🙂
Hugs and ¡pura vida!
Hi Celi: great story, could I get the PDF with the route you took? Thank you very much!
Sol
Hi, Sol
Thanks a lot for your comment. I'll send you a private email. 🙂
Hi Celi,
I loved reading about your trip to Costa Rica. My partner and I are traveling on the 10th to Costa Rica, for 11 days. We'll arrive in the afternoon so we'll sleep in San José and the next day the adventure begins: driving to Sierpe, then taking a boat to Drake to visit Corcovado National Park, where we'll spend a few days, then we continue towards the Manuel Antonio area, next Monteverde, and we wrap up with the Arenal Volcano and sleeping in Alajuela before heading back home. We'll spend the nights in these places and along the route we'll make stops to see Marino Ballena, etc.
Do you have the PDF ready yet? Best regards and thanks for sharing your experience.
Sorry Celi, I already saw the PDF link… awesome… I'll grab some ideas from your recommendations. Best regards
Hi Chris! No problem at all. I'm glad you already have the PDF. I'm sure your itinerary will inspire other readers, so thank you so much for sharing it!
Have a fantastic trip (I'm sure you will). Hugs and ¡pura vida! 🙂
I think you described it so well that I feel like going more than ever.
I'd like you to send me the information in PDF format.
Best regards.
Hi Javier! Thanks for your comment. Honestly, I'm crazy excited to go back to Costa Rica too. The PDF is almost ready. If all goes well, next week I'll post the link in this article and send it by email to my subscribers. Hugs.
I want the PDF!
Hi María, thanks for your comment! I'm on it (it's almost ready). Keep an eye on the blog or sign up for the newsletter so I can send it straight to you. Best regards.
Hi! Very interesting!
I'm traveling this year and I'd love to have the PDF.
Thanks
Thanks for your comment, Iria! I'll try to have it ready for you in time. Hugs.
Hi Celi!!! such a cool trip… this July I want to go to Costa Rica, I'd love it if you could send me the PDF pleaaase thanks and ¡¡Pura vida!!
Hi Adela, thanks a lot for your comment.
I hope to have the PDF ready this month. As soon as I have it, you'll be able to get it on the site. Hugs and ¡pura vida!
I would like to travel to Costa Rica and I want your PDF. Thanks
Thanks for your comment, Verónica! I hope to have it ready in a few weeks, stay tuned to the blog or sign up for the newsletter if you want me to let you know personally when it's available. Big hug!
This summer we are going to Costa Rica and I would love to have your PDF to get everything ready!!!!
Hi Cris! Awesome, I hope to have it ready by February-March. Besides uploading it to the website, I'll let the newsletter subscribers know so they can download it if they're interested. So, if you don't want to miss it, you can sign up now and I'll let you know. Best regards and pura vida! 🙂
I'm planning a trip to Costa Rica and
I want the PDF!
Thank you very much in advance
Hi Jesús! Thanks for your comment and… you got it. 😉
Have a great trip to Costa Rica!
I'd like to get to know Costa Rica better since I've already been there as a volunteer. If you know anything about volunteering, that would be perfect. And if not, if you have any information about traveling as a volunteer, I'd really appreciate it
Marta Vidal
Hi Marta! Thank you so much for your comment. Discovering the culture, wildlife, and nature of Costa Rica and falling in love with the country and its people while doing your bit for them seems like a wonderful way to travel. How amazing! It's an honor to have readers of your caliber, hats off to you!
But I can't help you, since I have no experience in that area. If you've volunteered in Costa Rica before, you already know more about it than I do. However, my advice is to think about which field you want to volunteer in (social, ecological, conservation, education… ) and look for a trusted organization with good references where you feel comfortable.
And when you find it, tell me all about it! You could be the inspiration other readers were waiting for, including myself.
Good luck with your adventure. Thank you very much, on behalf of everyone, for your past, present, and future volunteering. And… pura vida! Big hug.
Hi Celi! great post thank you so much!
We are going with two young children in October (2 and 4 years old), we already booked the car with Wild Rider. We'd love your take on which of the places you visited are suitable or not for kids…
Thanks!
kisses
Lucia
Hi Lucia. Thanks a million for your comment, happy to share my thoughts.
To be honest, most of the destinations I visited are suitable for families with children. The national parks of Cahuita and Manuel Antonio, for example, besides being very easy to walk around and having gorgeous beaches to play and swim, are perfect for little ones to admire animals in the wild and learn to respect nature. Monkeys and raccoons, for example, are a lot of fun and easy to spot. Mind you, watch your personal belongings! They have sticky fingers. 🙂
The zip line in MonteVerde might be a bit much for such young kids. And, if you go to Arenal Volcano with them, whatever you do, don't do the hike I did to Cerro Chato; pick an easier one, for your own sake.
I think Tortuguero is suitable, unless they are afraid of small boats. The excursions aren't very long, 1 hour max from what I remember. But you had to stay more or less quiet while the boat navigated the bends trying to spot birds, reptiles, and the occasional howler monkey. We didn't cross paths with any small kids, and I know full well how hard it is to predict when they'll shout more than usual or start crying… Still, I don't think you should miss it for that reason. Imagine if you're lucky enough to see a nest of tiny green sea turtles hatch… what a beautiful experience for your kids!
I would definitely skip the rafting in Turrialba if I were you. You won't be able to do it with them, especially with the 2-year-old.
I hope this was helpful. If you need anything else, just ask.
Big hug, have a wonderful trip and pura vida!
Hi Celi!
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience, it sounds wonderful!
I'm putting together my itinerary for the country and wanted to ask what you'd recommend as must-sees. I'm going for 15 days, solo. I'd like to prioritize the beaches but also see some of the volcanoes, so I thought about starting by renting a car and first touring Poas and Arenal, then heading towards Liberia to go down the Pacific coast. Then take the ferry across to Puntarenas and cross to the Caribbean side from Limón to Cahuitas. Is that crazy for the few days I have? I'm not traveling on a very loose budget and wouldn't want to spend more than USD 1000, is that doable?
Thanks a million!!!
Hi Clara!
Thank you for your comment. You're definitely right, the experience was wonderful. And I'm sure yours will be too. The route you describe seems well fitted to the days you have, I think it looks good. I haven't been to the Nicoya Peninsula, so I can't really speak for that area. Plus, we always prioritize wildlife watching, while we just come across beaches along the way. The only thing you might be skipping, which matches your tastes and my experience, is the beach at Manuel Antonio Park. But again, you might have already seen similar beaches on the Nicoya Peninsula, so it might not be worth driving all the way down there, especially since you'd be short on time in that case.
You're right, your budget is very tight. But if you get a good deal on the car rental and stay in budget accommodations, I think it would be doable. Mind you, I wouldn't include flights in that $1000. Flights included starts looking a bit too tight to me.
I hope you have an awesome trip, discover the beaches of your dreams in Costa Rica, and manage to stay on budget. If you have any more questions, you know where to find me. 🙂 Oh! And… pura vida!
Thanks Celi for your help organizing the trip.
We are going from late November until after the December long weekend, which according to what you say seems to be a good time.
Before reading your tips I had already booked the Lodge for Tortuguero, I'm delighted to see beforehand that it was a good choice.
We are going to do almost the exact same route as you but in reverse, meaning we go from San José to Tortuguero, from there we return to San José, pick up the car at the airport, and head to Manuel Antonio, and from here to Monteverde from where we'll go to Arenal to finish the trip at a Resort in Guanacaste to rest for a few days after the exhausting drive we're going to put in, and finally return home from Liberia airport.
We have rented the car strictly for the days we visit Manuel Antonio, Monteverde, and Arenal; we return it at Liberia airport before going to the Resort since they pick us up at the airport and drop us off the day we leave free of charge. In case it helps any of your readers, for now I'm paying 299 euros for the rental of a Toyota Rav 4×4 including the one-way fee at a different location which comes to about 47.1 euros, less than in Spain where they normally charge 120 euros.
Now I'm researching the road routes to choose the best ones, I've read that not all roads are in good condition, so it would really help if you told me how you chose them and if the system worked well. Greetings and thank you so much for your tips.
Hi Mercedes. Thank you so much for your comment and for sharing so much information for the other blog readers. You got a great price on the car rental, especially dropping it off at a different airport. Which company did you book it with? And for how many days?
Regarding which roads to choose, your best bet is to use a paper map. Ask at the car rental agency, they might provide you with one, just like they did with us. Try to stick to paved roads as much as possible. This will be clearly shown on a paper map, whereas Google Maps navigation might route you down dirt tracks that could be in bad shape. Even so, it's very likely you'll encounter potholes, landslides, and all sorts of road damage on main highways. The Inter-American Highway itself had quite a few rough stretches when we visited. So, just in case, drive carefully.
Another tip is to ask at the rental company when you arrive. Tell them your itinerary and ask for their advice on which roads to take. They have the most up-to-date information you can find.
December is a perfect time to visit Costa Rica, so even though you might not need it, all that's left is to wish you a great trip and pura vida! 🙂
Big hug.
The rental is for 6 days and I booked it with rentalcars, although I've changed vehicles several times spending less money and upgrading, in my opinion, the car model; you just have to log in from time to time and check if you find something cheaper, I still don't think this will be my final change.
What you're telling me about the roads was already my gut feeling from what I've been reading. I even found a website from the Costa Rican authorities where they let you know if there is any issue on their road network (http://www.conavi.go.cr), but what I can't manage to find out with some accuracy is how long driving between the different areas actually takes because, if you check the Michelin guide, it gives you a time that has nothing to do with what the hotels or tour guides tell you when you ask them. Well, I'll keep up my research and I'll let you know when I get back. Thanks a lot again.
Hi Mercedes,
Thanks a million for sharing the car rental details. I'm sure many readers will appreciate it, myself included! 🙂 As for the driving hours and routes, if I were you, I'd go with the longest duration you've found. That way, if it ends up taking less time, you'll just get a nice surprise and get to enjoy the destination longer that day. An easy tip is to wake up early and hit the road as soon as possible. That way, if it takes longer than expected, night won't catch up with you. I'd love to hear how your trip went when you return. I'm sure you'll come back wanting more! Again, thanks for your comments, big hug, and pura vida!
Hi! Your post has been a huge help for my upcoming 10-day trip to Costa Rica. I'm just still wondering whether to rent a car or get around by bus, there are only two of us, rental prices are reasonable, but we don't know how much more we'll spend on gas since our budget is pretty tight. Our itinerary is Manuel Antonio, Jaco, Arenal Volcano, Monte Verde, Tortuguero, Puerto Viejo, and Poas Volcano, returning to San Jose. Is it too packed or what would you recommend? I hope you can help us out a bit, thank you so much!
Hi Ana Cristina! What an awesome trip you're putting together! In my opinion, that's too many destinations for just 10 days. So, if you don't want to skip any of them, renting a car to save time might be your best bet. That way you won't have to stick to bus schedules. But of course, I don't know just how tight your budget is. Looks like right now (07/29/17) gas is around 1 US dollar / 19 MXN pesos / 0.9€, just to give you an idea.
Here are my recommendations:
– Puerto Viejo is the furthest destination of them all (despite being gorgeous, of course). You'll have seen other beautiful beaches in Jaco and Manuel Antonio. You'll also have visited national parks in Manuel Antonio, Tortuguero, etc… I would take Puerto Viejo off your trip. You'll save time and money on gas.
-For Tortuguero, it's best to go without a car, using the shuttle service included with one of the hotels, like the one I used, for example: Laguna Lodge. They pick you up and drop you back off in San José themselves. So I recommend leaving this destination for the beginning or end of the route. That way, you'll reduce the days and, therefore, the car rental price.
-I don't see this as quite as necessary, but if you want to spend 2 days in each place (roughly), you need to cut one more, besides Puerto Viejo. For example, you could pick just one of the two volcanoes to visit, Poas or Arenal. If you really, really love volcanoes, maybe I'd drop Monte Verde instead of one of them. And if wildlife and nature are what attract you the most, then drop Jaco (the only beach you'd be visiting in this case would be Manuel Antonio, keep that in mind).
Of course, these are my recommendations, very much aligned with my personal tastes and my style of traveling (on the slower side, as you might have noticed). So, if you feel up for visiting all the places you listed in 10 days, go for it! I'm sure you'll love all of them, but you'll probably feel like the time you spend in each is too short.
I hope this was helpful. Feel free to write back if you need any more info.
Have a fantastic trip to Costa Rica and… ¡pura vida! 🙂
Hi! Just wanted to congratulate you because this is helping me a lot to plan my 15-day trip this August to Costa Rica, I've noted down several accommodations and places :),
The only thing that's giving me a bit of a headache is the car rental because since it's the rainy season, I see it as essential to rent a 4×4 with fully comprehensive insurance and prices are through the roof, I just sent an email to the company you recommend to get a quote :).
Cheers!
Hi, Vicente. Thanks so much for your comment! I love that the blog is helping you organize your own adventure. It really makes my day. Regarding the car, I agree with you, you're making the right call. In the rainy season, a 4×4 with comprehensive insurance is essential. That way you can enjoy your route to the fullest without worrying about unexpected road issues. Hopefully the agency I used will give you a quote tailored to your needs! If you can, let me know what they say. I'm sure many readers will find it helpful to have a more updated 15-day quote than mine. Thanks again, have a great trip and ¡pura vida! 🙂
Good afternoon, thank you very much for the contributions on your blog which serves as a guide for future travelers,
We are planning the trip on our own with a duration of 15 days , 1 night arrival in san jose, 2 nights tortuguero, 2 arenal volcano, 2 monteverde , 5 nights in manuel antonio and 3 osa peninsula.
I would like to know if you think that's too many nights in Manuel antonio and what we could see or spread out in another area of interest
Thank you very much
Hi Cristina, you're very welcome! Thanks to you for your comment.
Your trip sounds great, very comprehensive, I wouldn't complicate it by adding a new area.
The only thing I'd change is reducing one or two nights from Manuel Antonio and moving them to the Osa Peninsula. Manuel Antonio park is easily enjoyed in two or three days, whereas, as I understand it, the Osa Peninsula is much larger.
However, one of the most beautiful beaches we saw in Costa Rica was Manuel Antonio's. White sand, clean, turquoise, warm water. Perfect for spending hours in the sea or relaxing in the shade of the trees. So, if you feel like spending a day or two just chilling on the beach, it's fine to spend a bit more time there.
In short:
– If you feel like lounging on Manuel Antonio beach for up to 3 full days, your plan is perfect as is.
– If one or two full beach days are enough for you, 4 nights in Manuel Antonio and 4 nights in the Osa Peninsula should be enough.
– If you're not that keen on beach time, 3 nights in Manuel Antonio (2 days visiting the park) and 5 in the Osa Peninsula might be better suited. The Osa Peninsula is much larger in area, so you'll have enough time to explore it all and discover its secrets.
Whatever you decide, you'll have an amazing time. Have a great trip, and ¡pura vida! Best wishes.
Hi Celi!
What an awesome post. Thanks a million. I'm going with my family this summer and it has inspired me so much to put together the itinerary.
I have a question....you left out Corcovado. In the guides I'm reading, they list it as one of the «must-sees»… did you skip it for any particular reason? did someone recommend replacing it with another park you visited?
Thanks a lot!!
Hi Marta! I love that the post inspired you, thank you so much for letting me know!
We skipped Corcovado simply because… we didn't have enough time! But I can assure you it's not just the travel guides. Every local we met strongly recommended visiting Corcovado National Park on the Osa Peninsula. As you rightly say, it's an absolute must-see. So don't miss it.
By the time we found out about it, it was already too late. We had the route mapped out in our heads and didn't want to sacrifice any stops. I don't regret it, because I loved everything I saw and we had a blast. But I marked the Osa Peninsula as stop number 1, non-negotiable, for our next trip to Costa Rica, because… we'll be back! (hopefully soon…) 🙂
If you have time, definitely visit Corcovado. You can't go wrong. And afterwards, if you feel like it, tell me all about it! I'd love to know what you thought.
Big hugs, have an amazing trip, and… ¡pura vida!
Hi! Great post. I'm looking into organizing a trip with a friend and renting a car. It certainly looks like the best option to get around Costa Rica and visit beaches and rainforests, right? Is it not dangerous? And for parking, did you always leave it in car parks? Thanks in advance!!!! I'm dying to go, even more so after reading the post! Cheers
Hi Jany! Thanks so much for your comment. I'm thrilled the post inspired you!
Getting around Costa Rica by car is completely safe. The only real issue might be flooding during the rainy season. When that happens, some roads get cut off and you have to take alternative routes. But in the dry season, there's nothing to worry about. Either way, I recommend renting a 4×4 with fully comprehensive insurance. That way you can travel with peace of mind.
For parking, we used the accommodation car parks, public parking lots near national parks, restaurants, etc. Many were neither guarded nor gated. Nothing ever happened. Of course, it's always best to take the precaution of not leaving anything visible inside the car, nor hiding valuables. Better safe than sorry. The only place I know where people might try to break into the car, even with nothing in sight, is by the Tárcoles River, as I mention in the post.
One of the pillars of Costa Rica's economy is tourism, thanks to the care and preservation of its natural richness. Because of that, the way they treat visitors is exemplary. You have nothing to worry about if you take the same basic precautions you would in your own city. Cheers, have a great trip to Costa Rica and… ¡Pura Vida!
Hi, first of all congrats on the post. I wanted to ask which company you went to Tortuguero park with? Did you pick up the brochure at the hotel in San José?
Thanks, cheers.
We're leaving on January 5.
Hi Laura, thanks a lot for your comment. It's a real pleasure to hear (or read) that you enjoy what I write on the blog.
We went to Tortuguero with a full package booked directly through Laguna Lodge. I found them while researching online before arriving in Costa Rica, not in San José.
When you book with this resort, the price you pay includes accommodation, round-trip transport from San José (hotel or airport), full board, and boat tours through Tortuguero National Park during your stay. If you book through Booking.com, after completing your reservation you need to contact the property to provide your hotel details and/or flight times. Keep in mind that for the trip out, they pick you up early in the morning, so you'll most likely need to spend the night in San José. The return is in the afternoon. In any case, you can email them first before booking to confirm schedules, conditions, and what's included in the rate. Here is their website: http://www.lagunatortuguero.com/
We had a wonderful experience with them, which is why I recommend them. The food was great (though that's very personal—I happen to love Costa Rican food, for instance), the hotel is lovely, nestled right in the park, and Tortuguero… simply unbeatable. The service from our guide was exceptional. He took us on all kinds of walking and boat tours, giving his all on every single one so we could spot all the wildlife living in the area. My only tip: don't let the intermittent rain get you down. Without it, the place wouldn't be as gorgeous as it is. Throw on the complimentary poncho they provide and enjoy! Hope this helps. If you still have questions, don't hesitate to reach out again. Best regards.
Amazing post. Thanks for sharing…Looking forward to more…
Cheers,
Thank you so much! Glad you liked it. Best regards.
hi , such a cool trip.
do you think that if I pick up the car in tortuguero (lodge service) I could drop it off at the end of the trip at the airport?
Hi, Ismael! Thanks so much for your comment. While not directly in Tortuguero (since you can only get there by boat), you can arrange to pick up the car in Siquirres, Guápiles, or even at the dock itself. I'm not sure if the agency I rented the 4×4 from offers that service, but I found another company that does allow you to do just that: http://www.poasrentacar.com/
The only downside is that rental rates increase significantly when you choose a different drop-off location, especially if one of them is Tortuguero National Park (which, as I understand it, means drop-off at the dock). You'll have to weigh whether the extra cost is worth saving you the trip back to San José to collect the car there. I hope this was helpful. Feel free to reach out if you need anything else. Best regards. Have a fantastic trip and ¡pura vida! 😉
Hi I'm going to Costa Rica and I'll be doing a very similar route! Can you send me the route map you followed? I can't seem to view it on the page for some reason.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Dorian! Absolutely, I'll email you the Google Maps link. Cheers and have a great trip!
Hi Celi good morning! do you have an estimate of how many total km you drove? mostly to get the bookings organized properly and not miss a thing! we are going for at least 17 days..Thanks!
Hi Matias, of course I can give you an estimate of the km we covered with the rental car.
In total it was around 1100 km, broken down like this:
– 20 km from San José to Alajuela to spend the first night.
– 140 km from Alajuela to Arenal Volcano.
– 110 km from Arenal Volcano to Monteverde.
– 190 km from Monteverde to Manuel Antonio.
– 235 km from Manuel Antonio to Turrialba.
– 170 km from Turrialba to Punta Uva/Manzanillo.
– 235 km from Punta Uva back to Alajuela.
I haven't included the journey from San José to Tortuguero, as we were taken in the minibus included with the lodge service, but round trip to where you board the boat adds approximately another 240 km.
I hope this information helps you organize your trip. I'm so purely jealous! I want to go back to Costa Rica so badly…
If you have any other questions, ask away. I'm more than happy to help.
Best wishes, have a wonderful trip and ¡pura vida!