Route through Granada with 11 stops: WordCamp Granada 2018 edition.

Looking for an alternative route through Granada, outside the typical tourist circuits? Here you have a route designed by lifelong granadinos.

In November 2018 (2 weeks ago if you're reading this just as it's being published), the organizers of the first WordCamp Granada not only organized an event in a disinterested way as if they had been doing it forever, but they also organized a group activity around the city with the excuse of networking and getting to know each other better.

And this route through Granada has nothing to do with the typical tourist excursions. It is true that it includes some usual and essential stops, but it mixes them with others almost unknown.

The best part of it all? The company(oh, how nice!) and the walking to get from one to the other.

Granada hides streets to fall in love with. 

So with permission of the organizers (Jesús Yesares, you told me I could!) I take the liberty to summarize the route, mark on the map at the bottom of the page the official stops (in purple) and add some of my favorite places on it (in pink) as personal suggestions.

Technical specifications

• Difficulty: easy (there are only a few hills, but you can handle it, you'll see).
• Length: 6 km (approximate).
• Travel time: half a day (depends on how long you stop to take tapas and pictures) 😉 
• Start: Paseo del Salón.
• End: Campo del Príncipe Square.
• Date of realization (photographs): November, 2018.

Route through Granada - WCGranada2018

1. Paseo del Salón

The tour begins at a fountain loaded with symbolism, the Fountain of Pomegranates (what else?).

It has 4 statues on its base that symbolize:

• Sierra Nevada. If you walk through the gardens that follow the banks of the Genil River from here, you will probably be able to make out its white peaks silhouetted against the city.
• La Vega, a fertile and well irrigated plain thanks to its position between rivers and mountains, comprising up to 41 villages, including Granada, and thanks to which these towns were supplied.
• The Darro River, which enters Granada through the Paseo de los Tristes, flows under it and comes out again right next to it to join the Genil torrent (place marked on the map).
• The Genil River, the main tributary of the Guadalquivir River, which despite the rains during the fall did not carry much water (to the delight of the ducks, who were 'like Peter at his pond').

It is located on the Paseo del Salón, so called because this is where the city's ballroom (now a public library) was located.

2. Fountain of Battles

Remember that on this route through Granada, the most important thing is to enjoy the road.

For example, to get from the Fuente de las Granadas to the Plaza de la Fuente de las Batallas you will surely walk along the Carrera de la Virgen, a charming pedestrian street that runs between trees and where there is always something going on:

• An outdoor exhibition,
• an itinerant market,
• Christmas lights,
• the floral offering to the Virgen de la Angustias (September 15)...

It is from the latter that this street takes its name.

If the sun is shining and you're lucky, when you get to the Fuente de las Batallas (the city's kilometer 0) you'll see how it could also easily be called 'The Rainbow Fountain' 😉.

By the way, when you are here remember that this entire square is the last great vault that was built in the early twentieth century to cover the course of the Darro River through Granada.

What's more, under it there are still the remains of the bridges that dotted this area to cross from one side to the other. It makes you want to travel back in time to see it, doesn't it?

3. Bib-Rambla Square

As you advance to the next destination you will pass through what is known as the Royal Gate. Although today there is no gate itself.

If any Grenadian meets you at Puerta Real, stand in front of the Post Office building if you want to be found 🙂

The Bib-Rambla square was considered the old 'commercial center' of Granada due to its central location next to the silk and fabric market of the Alcaicería. I have marked on the map the area so you can get lost in its narrow streets.

As a curiosity, the Fountain of the Giants or Gigantones that occupies the center of the square is one of the oldest in Granada.

I remember as if it were yesterday(and it's not going to be...) that Bib-Rambla was always one of my favorites during my university days when the festival of the Crosses of Granada arrived at the beginning of May. It was beautiful to see Granada dressed in flowers and to set up altars and carnation crosses in every square of the city.

If you have the opportunity (and can handle the crowds) don't miss this party.

4. Cathedral/Plaza de las Pasiegas

This was one of the biggest revelations of the route.

I had never paid special attention to the cathedral of Granada before, but the organizers put together a historical compilation worthy of a multi-season Netflix series.

1. Despite being one of the largest Catholic cathedrals in the world, it has only one small tower, when in fact its architect had projected 2 huge towers that, if built, would have competed as emblem of the city with the Alhambra itself.
2. The bell tower of the cathedral deserves several chapters:
   • One of its bells was punished to not ring for 100 years for accidentally 'killing' a bell ringer. What?!
   • It had its own version of the Quasimodo of Notre Dame until recently with a bell ringer who lived in it for most of his life without ever leaving.
   • The Catholic Monarchs are buried next to Juana la Loca and Felipe el Hermoso in their Royal Chapel, although Isabel the Catholic made it clear that she preferred to be buried in the monastery of San Francisco, next to the Alhambra. Even the dead are no longer respected...:O
3. The square that opens in front of the door of the cathedral receives the name of the Pasiegas because this was where the wet-nurses that the nobles of Granada made migrate from Cantabria (specifically, from the val de Pas) were located due to the good reputation they had as breeders.

How could I live 5 years in Granada and not know all this? As a friend would say, 'shame on you '....

5. Isabel la Católica Square

Before arriving at the Plaza de Isabel la Católica, where the statue in which Isabel receives Columbus as a commemoration of the 'discovery' of America (which was anything but discovery...), you can take the opportunity to pass by the Corral del Carbón.

It is an alhóndiga nazarí in perfect state of preservation. It was used as an inn for merchants, a wholesale food market, a coal warehouse and even a theater (corral de comedias).

Its entrance arch carved with Mozarabic details and its vine-covered patio are one of those places that I never tire of seeing whenever I go to Granada.

And when you finally get to the Isabel la Católica square, look at the huge street that starts from it, the Gran Vía.

If you are lucky and visit in autumn you will be able to enjoy its Ginkgo Biloba What an explosion of color!

6. Plaza Nueva

I have taken the liberty of changing the order of the original route to insert my suggestions.

Walk up to Plaza Nueva, where the Real Cancillería is located, the building where the entire Kingdom of Granada used to be judged.

You will also see from here the curious tiled tower of the Church of San Gil and Santa Ana, the beginning of the famous Paseo del Darro (wait a bit, we are going to make a 'delicious' detour) and the tower of the Vela de la Alhambra on the heights.

Speaking of 'delicious'...are you hungry yet?

Well, this is a perfect area for tapas. I've marked several bars/restaurants on the map that I've tried or that I've heard of (special mention to Los Manueles), but it's just to show you where to look.

There are many authentic places in this area with good tapas. You know, those little plates they bring out to you for free with every drink you consume. I know what I'm talking about because I fed myself (in part) thanks to them during my college years 😉.

The only thing you should avoid are those places that seem to be created especially for tourists. They are easy to recognize: posters with pictures of food, menus in many languages, dishes that are too exotic (beware, the Arabic food here is authentic and delicious, that is not considered 'exotic' in this city).

7. House of Porras

And speaking of Arab delicacies... have you tried Baklava? Fancy a mint tea? Prefer to swap the tapa for a plate of lamb and couscous?

Keep walking until Calderería Nueva or, as I like to call it, the street of the teterías (already entering the Albaicín neighborhood).

My favorite is the Alfaguara tea shop, but it has more to do with my student years than with real differences between the restaurants in the area. So go into any of them, and bon appetit!

If you follow this street until it changes its name to Cuesta de San Gregorio you will pass Casa de Porras, a building that belongs to the University of Granada and which you cannot access.

So why are you on this route?

Because the organizers of the WCGranada2018 are a horny bunch and included it as a challenge to see if we could find it 😉.

Well, hold on because curves are coming...

Because my most important extension suggestions come now and here there is a risk of getting lost:

⫸ Viewpoint Placeta de los Carvajales

If you walk a little further you will find a viewpoint with views of the Alhambra little known (or less than the next), the viewpoint of the Carvajales.

As you can see, the panoramic view is beautiful and, if you don't feel like climbing much more, you can be content with it.

However, if you want to get another, even more panoramic perspective(and without a neighbor's TV antenna pestering the photo), then it's up into the Albaicín.

⫸ San Nicolás viewpoint

The viewpoint of San Nicolas is the most famous in Granada. You only need to look at the picture we got from there to understand why:

But don't stop there. Pay attention to the route up here between dwarf alleys, white houses and courtyards full of flowers (even in the middle of autumn). What more could you ask for?

Yes, go down a different route through the Albaicín (let your eyes and feet take you downhill) to continue enjoying the path to the next stop on the route:

8. The Walk of the Sad

When you arrive at this beautiful street from the Albaicín, the first thing you see on the opposite bank of the Darro River is the old Hotel Reuma (nickname given to it because of its humidity), which also became a hospital and could inspire a good horror movie script .

From here, if you walk towards Plaza Nueva along the Acera del Darro you will find the Convent of Zafra, the Zafra House-Museum and the old Arab baths of Bañuelo.

Are you taking this tour on the last day of the week? Then, the lines you see on the last 2 are due to the fact that admission is free on Sundays- take advantage!

9. Viewpoint of the Churra

Continue along the course of the river and choose your own path to reach one of the lesser known points of this route, the Mirador de la Churra:

• You can get back to Plaza Nueva, go up the Cuesta Gomérez (which goes in the direction of the Alhambra) and turn left into a passageway towards Placeta de la Miga to finally reach the viewpoint by Almanzora Alta.
• Or you have the option of entering through a small street behind the Church of San Gil and Santa Ana (marked on the map) and continue along Almanzora Baja until you reach the viewpoint (although Google Maps does not show the connection, it is there, believe me). This last one is my recommendation, since you will go through the first one later.

From the Churra viewpoint the views are very different: the Alhambra disappears behind you and under your feet you can see part of the center (including the cathedral), the Albaicín and Sacromonte neighborhoods and even the old city walls on the left.

And you will probably enjoy the scenery exclusively, or almost exclusively.

10. Puerta del Sol Laundry

Now, from the viewpoint of the Churra continue to the Placeta de la Miga, exit to Cuesta Gomérez and continue towards the Puerta de las Granadas but without reaching it, until you find on your right the Cuesta de los Infantes.

Do you find it curious that the streets here are called 'Cuesta'? No, it's no coincidence 😉.

Although again Google Maps does not take into account certain narrow alleys and flights of stairs, the distance to the Puerta del Sol washhouse is much shorter than it looks if you dare to go down roads not marked on the map.

That's the fun of the adventure: discovering Grenada step by step and if you make a mistake, turning back.

By the way, don't just take in the view from the washhouse. The panoramic view of Granada from here is very different from the one you have been seeing along the route and it is also worth it.

11. Campo del Príncipe Square

To finish, this WCGranada2018 Route reached the Campo del Príncipe, in the Realejo neighborhood.

An ideal place to regain strength after the walk and share experiences in good company around some delicious tapas from Granada.

I have marked Taberna Tofe on the map because it was the one we tried and we loved the paellas, but I'm sure any other place will do.

Where to stay

You have a thousand places to choose from (and I'm sure that's an understatement):

• With or without views of the Alhambra.
• In a cave house or in a more conventional lodging.
• Hostels, hotels, hostels, room in a shared house...

Our experience

We chose the Saray Hotel for 52.7€/night on average, 2 persons without breakfast.

I have mixed feelings about this hotel:

• Its location is perfect if, like us, you have to attend an event at the Palacio de Congresos. Otherwise, it is a bit far from the center.
• The facilities are very good. You can tell it is a 4 star hotel.
• The beds are very comfortable and you can hardly hear any noise from the rest of the rooms.
• The reception staff was very unfriendly.
• They have very strict check-in and check-out policies.
• They are not very environmentally friendly. They changed my towels every day even though I left them hanging as directed to reuse them.
• Breakfast is expensive (even more so if you get it from Booking, don't do it!).
• When we arrived, they offered us the cheapest breakfast (at 10€ instead of 14€ as requested by Booking) but they did not tell us that we had to book it one day in advance. One morning we wanted to try it but when we went down to breakfast they told us they had to charge us 12€ and did not listen to our explanations.
• One good thing, the Flamboyant cafeteria is very close to the hotel and their muffins with tomato are a delicious breakfast 😉.

I leave it up to you to decide 🙂

Useful Links

• Original route of the WCGranada2018 with links summarizing the history and some curiosities of each destination.
• Get 5% off when you purchase travel insurance with IATI.
• Hotel offers in Granada.
• Flights to Granada: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo and Vueling.

And now what

Point No. 1: WCGranada2018 organizers, THANK YOU!

The organization of the event was great (I told you repeatedly), but with this route through Granada you have already stolen my heart 🙂

Point No. 2: Have you seen all the points I have mentioned?

Then you've earned a good nap or, at least, an early night. Because tomorrow it's time for... a visit to the Alhambra!

It's a real tomorrow for me, although you can read it anytime you want right here.

Do you know any other place in Granada easy to include in this route? Tell me about it in the comments so I can add it to the list of suggestions.

Map