What do you look for in a day of trekking in Catalonia?
The smugglers' path, a circular hiking route between Beget and Rocabruna, has it all:
- A ruined castle,
- the Beget River carved into rock,
- protected forests,
- a medieval village frozen in time,
- and panoramic views of Alta Garrotxa.
Are you up for it?
Technical details
- Difficulty: Moderate.
- Distance: 15.3 km.
- Hiking time: 4-5 hours (almost 6 h counting nearly 300 photos and snack breaks).
- Elevation gain: 778 m.
- Start: Parking in Beget.
- End: Parking in Beget.
- Date completed (photos): March 2019.
Where to park
You can leave your car in the free parking lot in Beget, but keep in mind that the number of spots is very limited. They're likely to fill up fast in high season.
Details of the Beget – Rocabruna – Beget circular trek
1. Beget: could it be any more photogenic?
Strolling through this village in the low season feels like traveling back in time.
Someone in a suit of armor on horseback could turn the corner and it wouldn't even look out of place. 🙂
Streets, houses, bridges, churches… All built (and preserved) stone by stone.
After soaking it all in, we bought sandwiches at the restaurant in El Forn inn and took the opportunity to refill our water bottles at the fountain in the square.
Once stocked up, we set off on the route, which starts right from the parking lot where we left the car.
Follow the trail markers along the way, you can't miss it. It looks like you're about to walk through a construction zone, but don't worry, you're on the right track. 🙂
2. Beget Stream: following the course of the river
The walking trail follows the Beget Stream and stays mostly under the shade of the trees.
The best part? The views of the river's path.
You know those curious, rounded rocks carved out by rushing water over time?
A picture is worth a thousand words:
Pretty cool, right?
The climb is gentle, so this section of the hike is easy—except for one small area with loose rocks by the river where you need to watch your step.
That said, it crosses the road up to 3 times, and on a couple of occasions you have to walk along the asphalt for a few minutes until you find the trail entrance again.
Always follow the signs and you won't have any problems.
After the last crossroads, you'll pass by an abandoned house, La Solana.
I confess, they've always creeped me out a bit. I watched way too many horror movies as a teenager… Ouch!
3. Sorolla Mill: watch out for the dogs
Now the trail continues along the stream, leaving the road behind and heading towards the Molino de Sorolla.
We would have loved to get much closer to take photos, but the dogs from the house next to the mill (are they the owners'?) were off their leashes and chased us barking until we were far enough away.
The owner was holding one back while yelling at the one harassing us to calm down. Between shouts, she kept explaining that he didn't bite.
So, instead of running away, I just walked fast. But the situation was way too intense to stick around and enjoy the scenery.
So, if you're afraid of dogs, keep this in mind.
4. Rocabruna: the charm of a castle in ruins
After the mill, a sand and gravel road starts where cars can drive.
Follow it until you reach a private house.
Once there, it's a bit harder to figure out where to go next, but a small trail running along the edge of the property leads you into a wooded area.
You're back in the heart of nature again! 🙂
Here begins the hardest and steepest climb of the route: reaching Rocabruna Castle (or what's left of it).
We took the chance to eat and rest in the shade of a tree among its ruins. 🙂
We headed back to the path we had left to continue our hike. However, when we came out onto an open meadow, we spotted signs pointing to the ruins via a different path from the one we had taken.
So there was probably another trail to leave Rocabruna and keep going without having to backtrack.
How on earth did we miss it?
If you find it, leave me a comment and let me know!
5. Coll de Malrem: with one foot in France
From this point on, the trail crosses a cattle meadow enclosed with electric fences (be careful when opening the gates, hold them by the insulated parts). Then it follows the road for a bit before heading back up the mountain.
In this area, the vegetation is sparse, without much shade until you reach the highest point of the circular route:
Coll de Malrem.
With stunning views of Alta Garrotxa, here you can cross the border into France without even realizing it.
It's at this spot where the loop's name, "The Smugglers' Route", makes historical sense, don't you think? 😉
6. Grau Viewpoint: the icing on the cake
Good news! From Coll de Malrem to the end of the hike, it's all downhill.
We rushed through this section as fast as we could to make it to the Grau viewpoint with enough daylight.
We had miscalculated our timing and were running late, but in the end we managed to see Beget from above:
The viewpoint is right on a curve during the step descent. You can't miss it.
And after about 15 more minutes of "steps", you step into Beget dying to reach the fountain. 😉
Full route on Wikiloc
Want to follow this route on Wikiloc?
You can view the trail on the map at this link.
What to bring
- Food: make sure to bring food with you because it's a long hike. We bought some local charcuterie sandwiches at the El Forn hostel restaurant before setting off, and paired them with mandarins and nuts.
- Water: except for the fountain in Beget, we didn't find any drinking water along the way, so I recommend bringing at least a liter and a half of water per person (two is even better).
- A bag: to pack out all the trash you generate. Please help keep this wonderful place clean!
- Sun protection: sunscreen, a cap, sunglasses... the usual essentials.
- Comfortable footwear: hiking boots or, failing that, sneakers that give you good foot support.
Where to sleep
To fully enjoy the smugglers' route without rushing, I recommend spending the night nearby.
There are several places to stay in Beget, like Hostal El Forn, or near Rocabruna, which are ideal if you want to start the route early (or finish late). 😉
What did we do?
In our case, a delightful spot chosen for the occasion was waiting for us (that night was our anniversary), but it's a bit far from Beget (a 1-hour drive):
La Masía del Puig
To get there, I recommend taking the road heading towards Castellar de la Muntaya from Sant Joan les Fonts.
Fair warning: if Google Maps tries to take you down a different route, resist! That other track is strictly for 4x4s.
Even following these directions, there comes a point where the tarmac ends and turns into a gravel and dirt track where you'll need to drive slowly so you don't ruin your tyres.
Is such a tricky drive worth it?
Absolutely, yes. 😉
And if you don't believe me, see for yourself:
Why did I love La Masía del Puig so much?
- It's nestled in Vall de Bianya with sunrise views that will take your breath away.
- They serve delicious breakfasts and dinners made with local ingredients, some straight from their own organic veggie patch.
- Its setting and design have been meticulously crafted so you can relax and leave all your worries behind the moment you set eyes on it.
The only downside is that it comes with a hefty price tag (no surprise there—this place is pure bliss for the senses).
A weekend night with breakfast costs €154, and a 2-course dinner + dessert and drinks is €32.50 per person. That came to a total of €219 (€109.50/person).
Would I go back? As soon as I can. 😉
Sustainable tourism in Catalonia
Do you know how I found this route and such a special place to stay?
Thanks to EcoTravelDesign.
Honestly, it's amazing how well Cristina Vilà knows her land. You can really tell she loves what she does.
All I had to do was answer a few questions about my tastes and preferences and snap! A few days later, I had a suggestion for a route around La Garrotxa in my inbox that fit me like a glove.
It felt like she had known me my whole life.
She was the one who told me about this smugglers' route and suggested Masía del Puig to celebrate our anniversary.
You can check out how the first day of that Garrotxa getaway went right here. Not bad at all, right?
If you want a sustainable rural getaway in Catalonia tailored just for you, ask Cristina. 😉
Useful links
- What we did the day before: Rupit – Salt del Sallent hiking route.
- Masía del Puig.
- Hostal El Forn in Beget.
- Other hotel deals around Beget.
- Flights to Catalonia: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount when booking your adventure travel insurance with IATI.
- EcoTravelDesign.
More hikes and destinations in Catalonia:
- Montserrat trail: funicular-Santa Magdalena-Sant Miquel-monastery.
- Montserrat circular route: from the monastery to the summit of Sant Jeroni.
- Rupit – Salt de Sallent circular trail.
- Challenge your perspective at the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres.
Great route and great content
Thank you! 🙂