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Vieste, an Italian fishing town on the Gargano coast

07/17/2018 by Celi

Sunset over Vieste from Guarda Che Luna restaurant

Admire the silhouette of Vieste rising above the Adriatic, walk its endless beach, and enjoy an unforgettable vacation in southern Italy.

Get your camera ready because it's going to work overtime. 😉

Vieste

This white town perched atop a promontory is full of scenic viewpoints, charming spots, and hidden corners waiting to be discovered.

Views of Vieste and Pizzomunno from the beach at sunset.

If you manage to avoid the high season or you're immune to the buzzing crowds of tourists that gather here during July and August, Vieste will surprise you.

Stroll through the old town (circled in yellow on the map at the bottom of this page) with your eyes wide open.

Around every corner you can find spots to dine by moonlight, small shops selling local products, or lovely restaurants spilling out into the streets.

The beaches of Vieste

Castello Beach or della Scialara stretches for 2 km southward.

At the end closest to the town stands the famous Pizzomunno, a massive freestanding rock by the shore made up of layers and layers of limestone and flint piled on top of each other over time.

Rock monolith Pizzomunno next to Vieste.

And from here on, you'll encounter dozens of private beach clubs occupying much of the sand with their paid sun loungers and umbrellas. In Italy they're known as 'lidi' and are a staple all along the coast. Most of the ones I saw in this area include parking in the price and offer affordable lunch menus.

Between each 'lido', they leave free public areas for beachgoers who don't want to pay for their services. These areas tend to be the dirtiest, and in some, small streams of questionable origin even flow into the sea. However, the further you get from Vieste, the larger and cleaner they become.

The beach itself is great for families with kids, since the water barely gets deep no matter how far out you walk.

While trying to find a spot where the water would actually cover me (spoiler: I didn't manage it), I noticed plenty of small white crabs darting into the sand as I walked by. Little ones will definitely have a blast chasing these tiny critters.

Profile view of Vieste at dusk from the roadside viewpoint.

On the other hand, Vieste has a second beach, Convento or San Lorenzo, located on the northern side, which pales in size compared to the first one.

Scenic viewpoints

One of Vieste's biggest draws is its photogenic silhouette rising above the Adriatic, a true treat for photography lovers.

Here are the ones we found most spectacular (marked on the map at the bottom of this page):

  • Pizzomunno. Right at the base of this rock, you'll enjoy a unique perspective of Vieste, Pizzomunno itself, and the white limestone cliff that separates them.
  • Castello Beach. If you walk along the shore away from the town and look back every now and then, you'll see how the view of the town floating over the sea becomes even more breathtaking (especially at sunset).
  • Viewpoint. If you approach Vieste from the south, you'll spot a small, unmarked roadside viewpoint right before the sandy stretch of Castello begins. Night photos? Gorgeous, but watch out for mosquitoes!
  • Via Judeca. Along this street, the wall opens up to reveal the stunning scene shown below. If you want to shoot a time-lapse, book a table at one of the restaurants with views here and enjoy dinner with a panoramic backdrop.

[twentytwenty]Sunset over Vieste from Guarda Che Luna restaurantDusk falls over Vieste from the Guarda Che Luna restaurant[/twentytwenty]

Around Vieste

Baia delle Zagare

The 2 beaches that make up this bay are the most inaccessible in Puglia and probably in all of Italy.

However, the effort is totally worth it. Just take a look at the photos of the coves and their white rock sea stacks rising off the coast to get an idea of what I mean.

A postcard-perfect setting

Views of Baia delle Zagare from the nature trail to Vignanotica, Italy

Want to find out how to reach Mergoli and Faraglioni beaches? Follow this link.

Vignanotica Beach

If you'd rather sunbathe beside white cliffs and swim in turquoise waters without worrying about how to get there, there's a perfect option for you.

Vignanotica Beach will turn a simple summer day into an unforgettable one.

Want proof? Here it is.

The cliff of Vignanotica Beach, in Puglia, Italy.

Caves

The coastline around the spur of the Italian boot is dotted with sea caves that you can explore on boat tours or by kayak (my personal favorite).

Ever seen those pictures where the cave's ceiling has collapsed, letting the sunlight flood in, with a tiny strip of sand forming a cove right in the center?

Well, in this part of Puglia, those caves are 100% real.

Want to see them with your own eyes? Here they are. 😉

San Felice Tower and Arch

San Felice Arch near Vieste, Gargano National Park, Puglia, Italy.

The San Felice Arch is a natural rock formation created by the same limestone buildup that shapes the cliffs along this coast.

You can snap photos like this one from the San Felice Tower.

Foresta Umbra

Even though Gargano National Park encompasses Vieste, the Adriatic coast, and other surrounding towns, its green lung is the 'foresta umbra' or shadowy forest, which is a true oasis during the summer.

It's packed with trails immersed in nature, surrounded by tall, lush trees that leave no room for panoramic views.

However, the quiet, cool air, and shade offered by these giants are a real treat for your senses during peak season. Don't miss it.

A green giant in the heart of Gargano's Foresta Umbra, Italy.

Villages of Gargano

Inside Gargano Park there are other towns that are also well worth a visit, such as Monte Sant’Angelo, Vico del Gargano, or Peschici.

When to go

The accommodation owners told us that in July and August they suffered from serious crowds since it's a very popular holiday destination among Italians themselves.

Because of this, June and September are the ideal months to enjoy Vieste and its surroundings without giving up great temperatures.

Our visit took place in early-to-mid June 2017 and, even though summer hadn't fully kicked in yet, we saw quite a few travelers in the area.

Where to sleep

Vieste is a town fully geared towards tourism, so you'll find hundreds of options for every taste.

In our case, we were looking for budget accommodation with parking and a kitchen.

We traded proximity to the coast for better prices and ended up at the apartment complex Argeste Club Vancanze, just a 15-minute walk from downtown Vieste or its beach.

The apartment was small and simple, but functional.

It consisted of 1 bedroom, a bathroom, a living room/kitchen, and 2 patios or terraces—a front entrance terrace offering great sunsets and a private back one that we didn't end up using.

Church at the tip of Vieste seen from the port.

We had parking right at our door, the bed was super comfortable, and our stay was very peaceful thanks to there barely being any guests at the complex during those mid/low season days.

The only issue was that we didn't find any welcome kit in the kitchen (sponge, dish soap, trash bags, etc.) and bathroom soaps were scarce.

Either way, when we pointed it out at reception, they lent us kitchen supplies with no problem. Plus, we snagged a deal for under €45 a day/2 people (without breakfast).

In mid-June in Vieste, that price is a steal.

Where to Eat

At lunchtime we lived on sandwiches while out hiking or lounging on the beaches. And, despite spending 5 nights in Vieste, we cooked almost all our dinners at home.

There was only one exception:

The restaurant Guarda che Luna has decent pasta and fish dishes and a delicious 'peccato di gola' dessert that lives up to its name (sin of gluttony). However, what truly makes this place stand out is its view. Spending the evening having dinner on their terrace gave us the chance to snap one of the most iconic photos of Vieste as night fell.

The price? Two mains + 1/2 liter of wine + dessert + 2 tangerine digestifs (mmm...) for €42.

Dusk falls over Vieste from the Guarda Che Luna restaurant

What we never compromised on was the ice cream (I've tested it out, there is no bad gelato in Italy). If you want to try unique flavors, I recommend Gelateria Maggiore. It's on the pricier side (€4), but totally worth it.

Budget

  • Accommodation: €220/5 nights/2 people (€22 per person per night).
  • Food: €130/2 people (€13 per person per day)
  • Kayak: €20 /2 hours / 2 people.
  • Gas: €50 tops (what it costs to fill a tank).

In total, we spent €420, €210 per person on our 5-day stay in Vieste and Gargano National Park.

Useful links

  • Hotel deals in Vieste.
  • Argeste Club Vacanze.
  • Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
  • 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.

Road tripping through Italy and checking out Puglia and the Gargano park? Then this is for you:

  • Baia delle Zagare, how to reach the 2 most inaccessible beaches in Italy.
  • Enjoy a beach day under the white cliffs of Vignanotica.
  • Discover the sea caves of Gargano by kayak.
  • Explore the 15 trails crossing Gargano's Foresta Umbra.

If you have any questions about Vieste and the surrounding area, leave me a comment at the bottom of the page and I'll be happy to help. 🙂

Map

Posted in: Travel Tagged as: 2017, Europe, Gargano, Italy, Italian Towns, Puglia

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Reader interactions

Comments

  1. CAROLINA MAZZUZ says

    09/17/2019 at 17:25

    Hi Celi:
    I was in Vieste last month.
    We fell completely in love with this town. They happened to be celebrating "love" and everything was decorated with hearts, and there was even a giant artificial moon. DJ, fireworks, and an orchestra played.
    Everything was wonderful. Thanks for this recommendation.
    Cheers,
    Caro.

    • Celi says

      09/17/2019 at 19:57

      How wonderful, Carolina! I can imagine Vieste looking gorgeous with that atmosphere.

      I'm so glad you enjoyed it so much. Thank you so much for leaving me this comment after your trip. Readers like you make it a real pleasure to keep sharing my experiences on the blog.

      Warm hugs!

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