Ilha Grande: Hiking and idyllic beaches off the coast of Rio de Janeiro

If you love nature in its purest form, enjoy hiking, and love the feel of white sand beneath your feet, don't hesitate.

This Brazilian island, off the coast of Rio de Janeiro, offers you a perfect combination of idyllic beaches and beautiful trails through the Atlantic Forest for all levels.

What are you waiting for?

When to go

The temperature in Ilha Grande, although slightly lower in winter, is always pleasant. Temperatures in July (the coldest month) range from 16 to 25°C, while from January to February (the hottest months), temperatures rise from 22 to 32°C.

You should take rainfall into account, which, despite occurring throughout the year, is much more abundant during December and January. These months are also when the island is most crowded with tourists, so I recommend avoiding it if possible.

We spent a week on this island in early September 2014. It rained heavily one day and was quite cloudy on two other days. The rest of the time was ideal. When the sun wasn't shining, the temperature was just right for beach activities, but perfect for trekking. As it was low season, we avoided the tourist crowds. In short, we chose the season that best suited our preferences, and we made the right choice.

Directions

There are several options for getting to the island from Rio de Janeiro. The most convenient, and therefore most expensive, option is to hire a transport service from your hotel in Rio de Janeiro, or directly from the airport, to the island. These companies usually include transport by van and the boat trip in the price. A cheaper option is to take a Costa Verde bus to Angra dos Reis.

We spoke with the hosts of the inn we had booked (Posada Ouro Verde) and they offered us an airport pickup and transportation service to the island for BRL 210 per couple, which was considerably cheaper than what other companies were offering online. So, I encourage you to contact your hotel or inn before making a decision.

Conceição de Jacareí is the closest town to Rio de Janeiro from where you can take the boat to Ilha Grande. The drive from Rio to this town takes approximately 2 hours, depending on traffic.

Afterwards, the boat trip from here to Vila do Abraão (the largest town on Ilha Grande) usually takes 50 minutes, unless you opt for a speedboat, which is less economical but only takes about 30 minutes.

However, after an hour on the train, a 12-hour transatlantic flight, and almost two hours on the road (in our case), 50 minutes on a boat is nothing, especially when you can already see the silhouette of Ilha Grande.

Recommended luggage

Vila do Abraão is a small coastal village that is completely devoted to tourism, but at the same time very simple. The roads are not paved, they are sandy, so we advise against using wheeled suitcases and/or carrying very heavy luggage.

If you're one of those people who can't control themselves when packing a suitcase, you can always find porters to help you for a small fee.

Essential items to pack:

• Cash, as there are no ATMs on the island. Although almost all shops will accept card payments, most tour operators and hotels will charge you a percentage of the total amount for paying this way.
• Flashlight or headlamp.
• Walking shoes (trainers or hiking boots).
• Long pants and long sleeves to protect against mosquitoes when the sun goes down.
• Reading, whether it's a novel or a travel guide (in this case, I recommend Lonely Planet Brazil).

Essentials that you can bring with you or find there without any problems:

• Swimsuit/bikini (in Brazil, topless sunbathing is prohibited for women, so a full bikini is required)
• Lightweight, quick-drying sarong or towel
• Sunscreen
• Mosquito repellent lotion
• Plastic flip-flops

Points of interest

There are two options for getting around this virtually car-free island: on foot or by boat. And you can get almost anywhere by one or the other, depending on how far you're willing to walk.

On the map at the end of this article, you can check out the boat routes and see where the most interesting places we visited during our week in Ilha Grande are located, which I will discuss below:

Boat trips

As you might expect, Vila do Abraão is full of agencies offering different types of excursions (mostly by boat).

You can find simple, fast, or slow transportation to the most popular beaches (such as Lopes Mendes), as well as 6-hour excursions around the island for snorkeling and visiting the most remote areas. Guided hikes to Pico de Papagaio and diving trips are also organized.

Your accommodation will surely put you in touch with one of these agencies. The prices are the same or very similar between them.

The most popular excursions are the half-day tour and the full-day tour around the island. In both cases, the price of the excursion includes complimentary water and the use of a mask and snorkel, provided by the speedboat, which can accommodate around 10-15 people.

Before starting the tour, they stop to buy ice from a boat further out from the coast and fill a refrigerator compartment on the boat so you can store any personal drinks you want to bring, in addition to complimentary water. You can bring food or eat at a restaurant already arranged by the boat during a 1-hour stop halfway through or towards the end of the tour.

The driver/guide will give you a menu so you can choose your dish in advance, ensuring that the restaurant has it ready when you arrive. These are beach bars with prices slightly higher than usual on the island (their only competition is the sandwich you might bring with you), but both the home-cooked food and the fresh fish are really good.

Halfway around the island

This excursion departs daily, and its schedule is set from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (5 hours long). Although they are rarely on time, the speedboats depart from Vila do Abraão beach at approximately 10:30 a.m.

In low season it costs R$80 per person (R$70 if you pay in cash), and approximately R$100 in high season.

The route of this excursion runs along the north side of the island, which is more protected by the mainland, and includes the following stops:

Blue Lagoon – Green Lagoon – Maguariquessaba (lunch) – Love Beach – Feiticeira Beach.

Complete tour of the island (recommended)

This excursion does not depart every day, but depends on sea conditions, as it also travels along the south side of the island, which is more exposed to Atlantic currents and winds.

Agencies usually inform hotels the day before whether or not the excursion will take place, so if you are interested, your hotel can keep you informed.

This activity costs R$130 per person (R$120 if you pay in cash) and lasts around 6 hours (from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., with half an hour to spare for departure).

If you can only go on one excursion, I recommend this one. The most beautiful beaches on the island are on the south side, and you won't be able to walk to many of them. The route for this excursion is as follows:

Caxadaço – Parnaióca – Aventureiro – Meros – Lagoa Verde – Maguariquessaba (food).

Specifically, we particularly liked Aventureiro beach, which is beautiful and has a limited number of daily visitors, and Meros, where we enjoyed snorkeling the most.

If you want to see a sample of the marine life you'll encounter while diving around the island, check out the video summary at the end of this article.

Beaches within walking distance (or not)

Two Rivers

This is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.

It can be reached on foot in 2.5 hours at a normal pace along a wide dirt road (wide enough for a car) surrounded by vegetation. Half of the route is uphill, while the second half is downhill, although never too steep.

There are two shortcuts along the route.

The first section, from Vila do Abraão to the first quarter of the hike, is too steep and is not marked, so you will have to make your way through the undergrowth uphill.

The second, which begins approximately halfway along the route (already downhill), is hidden behind an opening in the bamboo covering on the right side of the path. This passageway is much narrower and more beautiful, but you will have to navigate streams, rocks, and vegetation.

Although both shortcuts are shorter than the normal route, they will not reduce the duration of your trip, as you will have to walk more slowly. If you are not keen on venturing into the wild Atlantic forest, I recommend following the normal route, which is very pleasant and uneventful.

Remember that to return, it is best to leave well before sunset. Since the path is not lit, it is best to arrive in Vila do Abraão before nightfall.

The route ends at what was once the Cândido Mendes Penal Colony, where the Ilha Grande prison used to be located.

The place will remind you of a ghost town: large two-story houses abandoned to the passage of time and vegetation, separated from each other by wide, deserted streets.

There is a small visitor center, where you must sign in upon entering, and an establishment that advertises "home-cooked meals." In the off-season, you can only get a cheese sandwich, chips, and drinks here. However, the facility did not seem to be prepared to serve meals during the high season. If you want something more elaborate, I recommend bringing your own food.

Follow the sound of the sea and you will arrive at the stunning white sand beach, framed, as its name suggests, between two rivers. It is generally windy, like Lopes Mendes, ideal for surfing.

Walking along it is a pleasure for the senses. We assure you that the walk will be well worth it.

Lopes Mendes

You can reach the famous Lopes Mendes beach by walking for just over 3 hours or by boat, which drops you off at Pousos (in the north of the island), so you can walk the last 30 minutes or so to Lopes Mendes.

The entire route from the village is very beautiful, wide but steep. It climbs up to offer views of Vila do Abraão and then descends past the beaches of Palmas, Mangos (both beautiful), and Pousos.

If you don't bring food, wait until you get to Lopes Mendes, where you'll find small stalls selling sandwiches, chips, and drinks. Anything more elaborate will have to be brought with you.

The arrival at Lopes Mendes is spectacular.

During the last stretch of the path, you will be walking on the finest white sand you can imagine. And at the end,the Atlantic forest, through a kind of natural gateway, will give way to the sea.

This kilometer-long stretch of sand (3,000 meters long), facing the south of the island, is quite windy, making it a delight for surfers. In any case, even if you're not into waves, I recommend that you don't leave the island without taking a walk along it. You won't regret it.

Abraaozinho Beach

You can reach this beach by taxi boat or by walking for 30 minutes.

The path, which is not very demanding, is well worth the effort, as to get there you cross another two or three beaches and pass by a beautifulkapok tree, which is a true natural architectural marvel.

Once there, you will find two beach bars opposite the taxi boat area, where you can enjoy delicious fresh fish, and a more secluded area at the back, free of boats and with small trees providing shade.

It's an ideal place to spend the day when you wake up feeling lazy in paradise.

Witch

You can reach this small beach by boat or on foot. The usual route is on foot, following a beautiful path that passes by other coves, the ruins of a prison that predates the one in Dois Rios, an aqueduct, and a beautiful waterfall from which the beach takes its name.

It takes between 1 and 2 hours to get there. You will find only a small stand selling drinks and chips, and here they will inform you of the return boat schedule.

Accommodation

There are few luxury hotels, and these are usually located outside the town, in quieter areas that are difficult to access. Almost all of the other hotels or 'pousadas' are mid-range.

Within the town itself, we can distinguish three areas:

• Beachfront: Here, the hotels enjoy sea views. Among them are some of the favorites of consumers on Tripadvisor and Booking.com. They sell out very quickly, so if you are interested in this area, book well in advance. They have anidyllic location right on the beach, although it should be noted that this is a small port, full of motorboats anchored a few meters from the coast. In other words, you can walk barefoot on the fine sand at sunset, but you probably won't be able to swim there. Of course, being so close to the beach, which is full of charming bars and restaurants, has its downside: you will be exposed to some noise at night.

• Town center, or flat area: Most hotels, restaurants, and activities are located in this part of town. Prices may be slightly lower as it is not on the beachfront, although you will only have to walk a few steps to get there. Here you will also hear the noise from the nightlife. But you know what they say, if you can't beat them... join them!
• The upper part of the village: As you start to climb the slopes of the village, leaving the sea behind you, the number of hotels decreases, as does the number of restaurants. This area is where you will find more family homes and less light and noise at night. If you want to fall asleep to the sounds of the Atlantic forest, look for a guesthouse or hotel in this area. Keep in mind that every time you want to return to your room, including the day you go to and return from Dos Ríos, you will have to climb the hill. We stayed in this area, at the Posada Ouro Verde.

Ouro Verde Inn

Tucked away at the top of the village, the Ouro Verde inn is surrounded by a charming little garden. I can give you three compelling reasons to choose this inn:

• The silence of the night: From your bed, you will hear monkeys screeching, birds squawking, and the murmur of the river running alongside it. Nothing else.
• The breakfast area: And I'm not referring to the breakfast itself, which was wonderful, varied, and different every day, always with freshly made pancakes, soft bread, homemade jams, fresh juices, and homemade cakes or pastries. Yes, but no. I'm referring to the party of marmoset monkeys or squirrels that show up most days to beg for a little banana, and the dance of the hummingbirds that come to drink syrup from hanging feeders. Simply delightful. You can see the videos we took of these three cute marmosets at the end of the article.

• The owners: Both they and the people who work with them are charming. Very friendly and attentive. They will help and advise you with everything you need.

Any negative points:

• The climb after dinner can be a bit of a chore.
• The path to the hotel entrance was littered with dog feces from the neighboring houses. Nothing serious, but... remember to bring a flashlight at night so you don't step in it!

Restaurants

In general, the food on this island is excellent, especially if you like fish, and the dishes are usually designed for two people. As you will probably be eating at the beach every day, either at beach bars or with sandwiches, here are my recommendations for a delicious dinner, in order of preference:

Mr. Mario

It's a treat to eat at this restaurant tucked away at the end of an alley perpendicular to the boardwalk. I can recommend the fish with coconut and banana or the shrimp dish with basil, which are truly delicious. It was our favorite.

Moon and Sea

Exquisite restaurant right on the beach (literally, we dined barefoot in the sand—how wonderful!). I recommend the shrimp bobó, which is spectacular. And, of course, the caipirinhas! Enjoy your romantic dinner.

Beer garden

A restaurant offering excellent value for money, located on the town's main street, next to the inn of the same name. You can choose whatever you like from the buffet (various salads, vegetables, savory pies, meat, and fish) and pay for the weight of your plate at the end. All the food is homemade and very good. You will also be given access to the establishment's Wi-Fi.

Tropical Grill

At the far left end of the promenade, you'll find this restaurant, which looks quite ordinary but serves good food in generous portions. The fish casserole (with plantain), for example, is delicious.

Videos

Here are some of the best moments we experienced in Ilha Grande. Enjoy!

If you have any doubts or questions, or need any other details that I haven't mentioned, feel free to leave a comment below. I will be happy to help you in any way I can.

Useful Links

• Flight deals to Brazil: Trabber, eDreams, andMomondo.
• Ouro Verde Inn.
• Other accommodationsin Ilha Grande.
• Get 5% off when you purchase travel insurance with IATI.

Planning your trip to Brazil? You might be interested in this:

• Odyssey in Brazil 1: Rio de Janeiro-Iguazu-Belo Horizonte route.
• Odyssey in Brazil 2: Morro de São Paulo and Bahia

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