Ilha Grande: Trekking and Dream Beaches off the Coast of Rio de Janeiro

If you love nature in its purest form, enjoy trekking, and love the feeling of white sand under your feet, look no further.

This Brazilian island, just off the coast of Rio de Janeiro, offers you the perfect blend of paradisiacal beaches and beautiful hiking trails through the Atlantic Forest for all fitness levels.

What are you waiting for?

When to go

The temperature on Ilha Grande, although slightly lower in winter, is always pleasant. Temperatures in July (the coldest month) range from 16 to 25ºC, while from January to February (the hottest months), they rise from 22 to 32ºC.

You should pay closer attention to rainfall, which, although present all year round, is much heavier during December and January. Around this time, the island is also packed with tourists, so I recommend avoiding it if possible.

We spent a week on this island in early September 2014. It rained heavily on one day, and two others started off quite cloudy. The rest of the time was ideal. When the sun wasn't shining, it was just on the edge for beach days, but absolutely perfect for trekking. Since it was the low season, we avoided the crowds of tourists. All in all, we picked the season that best suited our preferences, and we nailed it.

How to get there

To get to the island from Rio de Janeiro, there are several options. The most convenient, and therefore most expensive option, is to book a transfer service from your hotel in Rio de Janeiro or directly from the airport to the island. These types of companies usually include van transport and the boat trip in the price. There is a cheaper option by taking a Costa Verde bus line to Angra dos Reis.

We spoke with the hosts at the inn we had booked (Pousada Ouro Verde) and they offered us an airport pick-up service and transport to the island for 210 BRL / couple; quite a bit cheaper than what the companies I found browsing the web were offering. So I encourage you to get in touch with your hotel/inn before making a decision.

Conceição de Jacareí is the closest town to Rio de Janeiro from where you can catch the boat to Ilha Grande. The drive from Rio to this town takes about 2 hours, depending on traffic.

After that, the boat ride from here to Vila do Abraão (the main town on Ilha Grande) usually takes about 50 minutes, unless you opt for a speedboat—a bit less budget-friendly—which only takes around 30 minutes.

However, after 1 hour on the train, a 12-hour transatlantic flight, and almost 2 hours on the road (in our case), 50 minutes on a boat is nothing, especially once you catch sight of Ilha Grande's silhouette.

Recommended packing list

Vila do Abraão is a small coastal town completely dedicated to tourism, yet still very simple. The paths are not paved; they're sandy, so we advise against wheeled suitcases and/or bringing very heavy luggage.

If you're one of those people who can't help overpacking, you'll always find porters with wheelbarrows who can help you out for a small fee.

Luggage essentials:

• Cash, as there are no ATMs on the island. Although almost all shops will let you pay by card, most tour agencies and hotels will charge you an extra % on top for card payments.
• Flashlight or headlamp.
• Walking shoes (sneakers or hiking boots).
• Long pants and long sleeves to ward off mosquitoes when the sun goes down.
• Reading material, whether a novel or a travel guide (in this case, I recommend the Lonely Planet Brazil)

Essentials you can bring with you or easily pick up there:

• Swimsuit/bikini (topless sunbathing is forbidden in Brazil ladies, so make sure to bring a full bikini)
• Sarong or a lightweight, quick-drying towel
• Sunscreen
• Mosquito repellent
• Plastic flip-flops

Points of interest

There are two ways to get around this virtually car-free island: on foot or by boat. And you can reach almost everywhere one way or another—it just depends on how long you're willing to walk.

On the map at the end of this article, you can check the boat routes and see where the most interesting spots we visited during our week in Ilha Grande are located, which I'll tell you all about below:

Boat trips

As you'd expect, Vila do Abraão is packed with agencies offering various types of tours (mostly by speedboat).

You'll find simple transport options, fast or slow, to the most popular beaches (like Lopes Mendes), as well as 6-hour tours around the island to go snorkeling and explore its most remote areas. Guided hikes to Pico do Papagaio and scuba diving trips are also organized.

Your accommodation will likely connect you with one of these agencies. Prices are identical or very similar across the board.

The most popular tours are the half-island and full-island circuits. In both cases, the tour price includes complimentary drinking water and the use of a mask and snorkel, provided on board the speedboat, which holds around 10-15 people.

Before starting the tour, they stop to buy ice from a boat slightly further off the coast, and they fill a cooler compartment on the speedboat so you can store any personal drinks you want to bring, in addition to the complimentary water. You can bring your own food or eat at a restaurant prearranged by the boat during a 1-hour stop halfway through or toward the end of the tour.

The driver/guide will hand you a menu to choose your dish in advance, so the restaurant has it ready upon your arrival. These are beach shacks with slightly higher prices than usual on the island (their only competition is the sandwich you might bring), but both the homemade food and the fresh fish are really good.

Half-island tour

This tour runs daily, and its schedule is set from 10:00 to 17:00 (a 5-hour duration). Although they are rarely on time; speedboats depart from Vila do Abraão beach at around 10:30.

In the low season it costs 80 R$ per person (70 R$ if you pay in cash), and around 100 R$ in the high season.

The itinerary for this tour takes place along the north side of the island, which is more sheltered by the mainland, and includes the following stops:

Lagoa Azul – Lagoa Verde – Maguariquessaba (lunch) – Praia do Amor – Praia da Feiticeira.

Full island tour (recommended)

This tour doesn't run every day; it depends on sea conditions, as it also covers the south side of the island, which is more exposed to Atlantic currents and winds.

Agencies usually notify hotels the day before whether the tour will take place or not, so if you're interested, your hotel can keep you updated.

This activity costs 130 R$ per person (120 R$ if you pay in cash) and lasts about 6 hours (from 9:30 to 18:00, with a half-hour buffer to depart).

If you can only do one tour, I recommend this one. The most beautiful beaches on the island are on its south side, and you won't be able to reach many of them on foot. The itinerary for this tour is as follows:

Caxadaço – Parnaióca – Aventureiro – Meros – Lagoa Verde – Maguariquessaba (lunch).

Specifically, for us, Aventureiro beach stood out—gorgeous, with a limited number of daily visitors—and Meros, where we enjoyed snorkeling the most.

If you want to see a glimpse of the marine life you'll encounter snorkeling around the island, check out the recap video at the end of this article.

Beaches on foot (or not)

Dois Rios

This is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.

You can walk there in 2.5 hours at a normal pace along a wide dirt track (wide enough for a car) surrounded by lush greenery. Half the trail is uphill, while the second half is downhill, though never too steep.

There are two shortcuts along the route.

An initial one, from Vila do Abraão up to the first quarter of the hike, which is too steep and unmarked, meaning you'll have to push your way through the undergrowth uphill.

The second one, starting roughly halfway through the journey (already downhill), is hidden behind an opening in the bamboo wall on the right side of the trail. This passage is much narrower and prettier, but you'll have to navigate streams, rocks, and vegetation.

Both shortcuts, despite being shorter in distance than the regular trail, won't cut down your travel time since you'll have to move much slower. If you're not keen on venturing into the wild Atlantic forest, I recommend sticking to the main path, which is very pleasant and hassle-free.

Keep in mind that for the return trip, it's best to leave well before sunset. Since the path is unlit, you'll want to get back to Vila do Abraão before dark.

The trail ends at what used to be the Cândido Mendes Penal Colony, where Ilha Grande's former prison was located.

The place will remind you of a ghost town: large, two-story houses abandoned to time and vegetation, separated by wide, empty streets.

There is a small visitor center where you need to sign in upon entering, and a spot that says “comidas caseras” (homemade meals). In the low season, you can only get a cheese sandwich, chips, and drinks here. Moreover, the place didn't seem set up to serve hot meals in high season either. If you want something more elaborate, I recommend bringing your own food.

Following the sound of the ocean, you'll reach the stunning white-sand beach, framed, as its name suggests, between two rivers. It's generally windy, just like Lopes Mendes, ideal for surfing.

Strolling along it is a treat for the senses. We guarantee the hike will have been well worth it.

Lopes Mendes

You can reach the famous Lopes Mendes beach by walking for just over 3 hours or by boat, which drops you off at Pousos (in the north of the island) so you can do the final 30-minute walk to Lopes Mendes.

The full trail from town is gorgeous, wide yet steep. It climbs up to offer views over Vila do Abraão and then winds down past Palmas, Mangos (both beautiful), and Pousos beaches.

If you don't bring food, wait until you reach Lopes Mendes, where you'll find small stalls selling sandwiches, chips, and drinks. Anything more substantial, you should carry with you.

Arriving at Lopes Mendes is breathtaking.

During the final stretch of the trail, you'll already be stepping on the finest white sand you can imagine. And at the end, the Atlantic forest opens up like a natural doorway leading straight to the sea.

This miles-long stretch of sand (3000m long), facing the south of the island, is quite breezy, making it a surfer's paradise. Either way, even if waves aren't your thing, I recommend not leaving the island without strolling along it. You won't regret it.

Abraaozinho Beach

You can reach this beach by water taxi or by walking for 30 minutes.

The path, very easygoing, is totally worth it since you cross 2 or 3 other beaches along the way and pass next to a gorgeous kapok tree (ceiba in Spanish), which is a true natural architectural marvel.

Once there, you'll find two beach shacks across from the water taxi area where you can enjoy great fresh fish, plus a more secluded spot at the far end, boat-free and shaded by small trees.

It's an ideal spot to spend the day when you wake up feeling lazy in paradise.

Feiticeira

You can get to this small beach by boat or by foot. The usual way is on foot, following a lovely trail that passes other coves, the ruins of an older prison that predates Dois Rios, an aqueduct, and a pretty waterfall from which the beach takes its name.

It takes between 1 and 2 hours to get there. You'll only find a small stall with drinks and chips, and here they'll give you the schedule for return boats.

Accommodation

There are few luxury hotels, and these tend to be located outside the town in quieter, harder-to-reach areas. Almost all other hotels or 'pousadas' are mid-range.

Within the town itself, we could distinguish three areas:

• Beachfront: Here, hotels enjoy sea views. Among them are several guest favorites on Tripadvisor and Booking.com. They sell out fast, so if you're interested in this area, book well in advance. They have an idyllic location right on the beach, though keep in mind that this is a small harbor filled with motorboats anchored just off the shore. That is, walking barefoot on its fine sand at sunset is great, but you probably won't be swimming here. Of course, being so close to the beach—which is packed with charming bars and restaurants—has its downside: you'll be exposed to some nightlife noise.

• Town center, or flat area: Most hotels, dining options, and activities are found in this part of town. Prices can be a bit lower since it's not right on the waterfront, even though you're just steps away from it. You'll also catch a bit of the nightlife buzz here. But you know what they say: if you can't beat 'em, join 'em.
• Upper part of town: As you start heading up the town's hills, leaving the sea behind you, the number of hotels drops, along with restaurants. This area is where you'll find more family homes, fewer lights, and less night noise. If your goal is to fall asleep rocked by the sounds of the Atlantic forest, look for your pousada/hotel in this area. Keep in mind that every time you want to get back to your room—including the day you hike to and from Dois Rios—you'll have to walk up that hill. We stayed in this area at Pousada Ouro Verde.

Posada Ouro Verde

Tucked away at the top of the village, Posada Ouro Verde is nestled in a charming little garden. I can give you three solid reasons to choose this pousada:

• The nighttime silence: From your bed, you'll hear the chatter of monkeys, the calls of birds, and the gentle murmur of the river running alongside it. Nothing else.
• The breakfast area: And I don't just mean the breakfast itself, which was wonderful, varied, and different every day—always with freshly made pancakes, soft bread, artisan jams, fresh juices, and homemade cakes or pastries. Sure, that's great, but that's not all. I mean the gathering of marmosets or squirrel monkeys that show up most days begging for a bit of banana; and the dance of hummingbirds swooping in to drink nectar from the hanging feeders. Truly delightful. You can check out the videos we took of these three cute marmosets at the end of the post.

• The owners: Both the owners and the team working with them are lovely. Super friendly and attentive. They'll help you out and give advice on anything you need.

A couple of downsides:

• The uphill walk after dinner can make you feel a bit lazy.
• The path leading to the hotel entrance was full of dog poop from neighboring houses. Nothing too serious, but… remember to bring a flashlight at night so you don't step in it!

Restaurants

Overall, you eat very well on this island; especially if you like fish, and dishes are usually meant for two people. Since you'll probably have lunch on a beach every day—either at a beach bar or with a sandwich—here are, in order of preference, my recommendations for a delicious dinner:

Don Mario

It's a real treat to eat at this restaurant hidden at the end of a little alley off the promenade. I can recommend the fish with coconut and banana or the shrimp with basil, both truly delicious. It was our favorite.

Lua e Mar

An exquisite beachfront restaurant (literally, we had dinner barefoot in the sand, how amazing is that!). Here I recommend the shrimp bobó, which is spectacular. And of course, the caipirinhas! Enjoy your romantic dinner.

Biergarten

A pay-by-weight restaurant with great value for money on the village's main street, attached to the pousada of the same name. You can freely choose whatever you like from the buffet (assorted salads, vegetables, savory pies, meat, and fish) and pay by the weight of your plate at the end. All the food is homemade and very good. Plus, they'll give you Wi-Fi access for the venue.

Tropical Grill

At the far left end of the promenade, you'll find this rather ordinary-looking restaurant that serves great, very generous dishes. The earthen-style fish casserole (with banana), for example, is delicious.

Videos

Here are some of the best moments from our time on Ilha Grande. Enjoy!

If you have any questions or need extra details on anything I haven't covered, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll be more than happy to help you out!

Useful links

• Flight deals to Brazil: Trabber, eDreams and Momondo.
• Posada Ouro Verde.
• Other accommodations in Ilha Grande.
• 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.

Planning your trip to Brazil? You'll love this:

• Odyssey in Brazil 1: Rio de Janeiro-Iguazu-Belo Horizonte Route.
• Brazilian Odyssey 2: Morro de São Paulo and Bahia

Map