The details of this itinerary between Belo Horizonte, Iguazu Falls, and Rio de Janeiro make up the first part of our trip to Brazil, during which we experienced just about everything:
Cancelled flights, driving across the peninsula in less than 24 hours, storms that could kill you, thefts, unexplained cramps and fevers, plans derailed by a padlock, stranded on the road at 4 a.m., endless hangovers—get me out of here!…
What I am about to describe took place in 2010; therefore, it is likely that most of the accommodations I mention below have changed hands, and with them, the quality of their services. Similarly, the prices I mention are almost certainly out of date as well.
Besides, given the string of minor misfortunes that kept happening one after another, it’s impossible for my observations to have been —how should I put it?—completely objective.
Do you have some popcorn handy?
Day 0: The tragedy is announced
That morning, when I woke up as happy as a clam and stopped by the bakery to treat my coworkers to chocolate croissants, there was no sign of the storm of trouble that was brewing.
It was Friday, December 3, 2010, and the next day I was leaving for a vacation in Brazil under the pretext of attending a family wedding.
The alarm was raised in the middle of the afternoon:
Air traffic controllers' strike.
Every news program was reporting the same story: Spanish airspace was completely closed off. And the images of airports packed with stranded travelers didn’t make the situation any better.
That night, we didn't sleep very well…
Day 1: Tragedy Strikes
The next day, Saturday, the airports had already been placed under military control, but flights were still not taking off.
The road was deserted, but the airport was packed.
The decision and the airport
At check-in, they confirm that no flights are departing and that all flights to Brazil are fully booked until the following Tuesday. They direct us to the TAP counters—the airline we were flying with from Barcelona to Belo Horizonte, with a layover in Lisbon.
All sorts of thoughts were running through our heads. We were going to be wasting time with our family in Belo Horizonte, dealing with domestic flights, booking hotels in Iguazú… Two hours in line gave us plenty of time to think about our options. And when we finally reached the TAP counter:
There are no flights from Barcelona to Lisbon until Tuesday, but there is a flight from Lisbon to Belo Horizonte the following day.
We agreed to the change, thinking it was the option that would cost us the least, and we rushed down the stairs, lugging a suitcase that was way too big (never again), toward the car rental companies.
Imagine our surprise when we realized that all of them were taking advantage of the flight chaos to jack up their prices exorbitantly. What a bunch of jerks…
We were “luck” that one of them had a Portuguese car, and they “only” charged us €360 to return it to Lisbon in less than 24 hours. You get the irony, right?
Well, that's it—we lost:
- The cost of a flight from Barcelona to Lisbon.
- A day with our family.
- 360€.
- And all the energy we were going to use up crossing the peninsula.
And yet, despite that, we felt lucky seeing the others we were leaving behind at the airport, feeling dejected.
Driving across the peninsula
We hadn't even been driving for two hours when a rock hit the car's windshield and left a chip in the glass. Noooo! However, for once, luck was on our side, and they didn't notice when we returned it.
The plateau was covered in snow, but we had no trouble driving on the highway.
We spent the night just outside Trujillo, at the first place we found, Hotel Las Cigüeñas, which had hard beds and paper-thin walls.
Day 2: Today we're finally flying
We arrived at the airport an hour earlier than expected… We hadn't taken the time difference into account!
So, at the Lisbon airport:
- We're going around in circles.
- We had lunch.
- We're going around in circles.
- Coffee + Belém cake.
- We're going around in circles.
- Nap.
- Let's set sail!
Last-minute surprises
The flight felt like it went on forever. Our middle seats were uncomfortable, and the crying of the babies around us kept us from sleeping during the more than 9-hour flight.
But the worst happened 30 minutes before landing…
The captain announced that, for some reason we couldn't quite understand, it was impossible to land in Belo Horizonte. And so, we had to continue on to São Paulo.
It was a picture-perfect scene:
- The entire plane was on its feet, with everyone at the very least putting their hands to their heads.
- My blood ran cold. I heard my brain cells crackling and… that was it. I froze.
- Nahuai took off his headphones and pounded the armchair he was sitting in with all his might, foaming at the mouth (figuratively speaking, more or less…).
What were we going to do in Brazil's largest city at midnight?
And, as if it were all just a bad dream, five minutes later the loudspeakers came on again to announce that it had all been a false alarm. We were indeed going to land in Belo Horizonte.
All I can say is that we caught our breath, cried, and clapped—in that order.
The couple welcomed us right at the airport, took us to their home, and practically tucked us in themselves. Thank you!
Day 3: Finally in Belo Horizonte
Our Brazilian hosts prepared a delicious welcome feast for us: rice and beans, fried cassava, heart of palm, meat stuffed with cheese, polenta… Mmm…
After that, we explored the city a bit, saw the Plaza del Papa, a viewpoint overlooking Belo Horizonte (it’s huge), tried some açaí ice cream (they just call it “Açai” there, and I became hooked), and watched a dance performance featuring more than 500 children. What a full day!
Day 4: On the way to Iguazú
That wasn't our lucky trip with the planes…
After breakfast, we set off on our trip to Iguazú, with a stopover in Rio de Janeiro. The first flight went smoothly. However, on the second…
Third time's the charm?
A dark, stormy cloud that had settled over the Foz do Iguaçu airport prevented us from landing. Put that way, it sounds like no big deal, but here’s what actually happened:
- The plane begins to descend.
- We felt several violent jolts.
- We all looked up and glanced at each other.
- The airplane windows didn't allow us to see beyond them.
- Amid the turbulence, the plane lifts its nose and begins to accelerate.
- The speed presses us back into our seats.
- And we began to wonder if we were misreading the signs on that trip…
They took us to the Curitiba airport, where, after a two-hour wait, a complimentary hamburger, and numerous metal detector checks, they put us on another plane.
And this time, we were actually able to land in Foz do Iguaçu, although…
Ghost B&B
We had tried to contact the Maricà B&B (120 BRL/night), where we had booked our first night, but they never answered the phone.
Finally, when we arrived by taxi at the door around 11:30 p.m., no one answered the doorbell, no matter how much we rang it. It was a dark street with few streetlights… Thank goodness we asked the taxi driver to wait with us (even though it made us a little nervous—it was a bit… peculiar).
We got back in the car, and it took us to the Hotel Baviera, which was more expensive, looked run-down, and was noisy. Still, it was a hotel; they’d opened the doors to us and given us four walls and a bed. What more could we ask for at that point?
Day 6: Iguazu, Brazilian side
The best thing about the Hotel Baviera, besides the great breakfast, was that it was just 50 meters from the bus stop that connected the airport to Iguazú National Park.
So, after a 45-minute drive, we arrived at the park entrance, where we paid 37 BRL per person for admission and boarded the bus that took tourists to the falls.
We got off at the third stop…
A unique hotel
The Hotel das Cataratas, now known as the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, is the most luxurious place we've ever stayed, and it boasts a prime location within Iguazú National Park.
Not only did it offer panoramic views of the falls right at the entrance, but it also gave you access to the Brazilian side of the park outside of regular visiting hours. In other words, we had the sunset over Iguazú all to ourselves.
I think it was one of the most expensive hotels I've ever stayed at (two nights for just over €500), but it was worth it.
And Iguazú… What can I say?
- Does every viewpoint offer even more beautiful views than the last?
- Is getting drenched in steam an experience you shouldn't miss?
- Does the roar of the water crashing all around you fill you with awe?
- Is it the power and movement of waterfalls that mesmerizes us?
Nothing I could tell you will compare to the emotions you'll feel when you visit Iguazu Falls.
Boat trip
After hiking the entire scenic trail, watching a litter of baby coatis juggle their balance to stay on a branch, and chasing a pair of toucans like paparazzi, we had lunch at the Porto Canoas restaurant, which offers distant views of the Devil’s Throat (buffet for 40 BRL per person).
After that, we went back to the hotel and signed up for a boat tour on the Iguazu River (140 BRL per person).
They picked us up at the hotel entrance in a Jeep and drove us through the jungle, telling us about the local wildlife as we approached the river. There, we boarded a boat and sailed toward the base of the falls. The scenery was somewhat reminiscent of the canals in Tortuguero, Costa Rica. But this time, we ended up right beneath the waterfalls, completely soaked and happy.
And when we got back, they had already closed the park to tourists, so we had all the walkways and the sunset practically to ourselves. What a treat!
Day 7: Iguazú, Argentine side
Since a round-trip taxi to the Argentine side of the park cost about 200–300 BRL, we decided to save money and make the trip on our own, taking four different modes of transportation:
- We got on the park bus and headed toward the entrance.
- Then we took the bus that connected the park to Foz Airport (3.5 BRL per person, one way).
- We got off halfway and took another bus to Puerto Iguazú, in Argentina (2.5 BRL per person, one way).
- At the bus station in this city, we caught the last bus to the other side of the park (4 BRL per person, one way).
In total, it took us two hours, and we had to get off at the border to get our passports stamped (the bus waits for you). I have to admit it was tiring, though fun.
And when we arrived…
Walking on the Falls
It's true that the Brazilian side offers the best views, but the Argentine side is definitely the one that brings you closest to the falls.
From the viewing platforms along its three trails, you literally step right into Iguazú—whether you’re standing beneath them, halfway up, or right above the most breathtaking waterfall you’ve ever seen: the Devil’s Throat. And the view of the waterfalls lined up one after another was every bit as impressive as the scenes on the Brazilian side.
My advice?
If you can, visit both sides of Iguazú, starting with the Brazilian side. If you only have time or money for one, go for the Argentine side.
I can't tell you just how beautiful it was.
- You have to see it with your own eyes.
- You have to feel it for yourself.
- You have toto listen with your whole body.
Caipirinha Time
On the way back, we used the same mode of transportation, but when we arrived on the Brazilian side, the park shuttle had stopped running, so we had to take a taxi from the entrance to the hotel (35 BRL).
We capped off our big day with a couple of caipirinhas by the pool.
We watched the sunset and ended the evening just like the day before, ordering dinner from room service (having aburger or sandwich was cheaper than eating at the restaurant’s buffet).
Day 8: From Iguazú to Rio de Janeiro
I woke up with a sunburn. Yeah, red as a tomato, basically. Nahuai woke up with body aches and a sore throat, as if she had the flu. Things were off to a great start.
We said goodbye to the walkways, which that morning offered the best views of our entire visit—rainbow included—and took the bus back to the entrance.
Right there, we decided to take a 9- to 10-minute helicopter ride over the falls. The views are beautiful; although the pilot didn't get very close to them—at least not close enough for my liking. Therefore, I don't think this experience offered very good value for the money.
The excitement is building
When we arrived in Rio, we took a prepaid taxi to the Atlantis Copacabana Hotel(€247.50 for 3 nights). In addition to its great location, it had very large and comfortable rooms. Its only downside was a very neglected pool on the top floor of the hotel.
But with the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana just a stone's throw away, who needs a pool?
And that's when the party started:
Nahuai came down with a high fever, accompanied by spasms. We spent most of the night awake, relying on acetaminophen, cold showers, and ice packs wrapped in towels.
You can't imagine how much I regretted not having bought travel insurance. Ever since that day, I never leave home without my IATI policy.
Day 9: Rio de Janeiro?
The amoxicillin and strong fever reducers I bought at the nearest pharmacy helped him fall asleep at times, although his fever and muscle pain didn't go away completely.
When he finally managed to get some sleep, I went out for a walk. Someone tried to rip me off at a juice shop, so I came back with my tail between my legs and some food for lunch in the room.
I left Nahuai taking a nap and headed over to Ipanema Beach for a bit, wearing only what I had on (a bikini and a sarong), to make sure nothing valuable got stolen while I was swimming. It was the weekend and the beach was packed, but it was beautiful.
After that, I went back to the room and got dinner for both of us (making sure there was plenty of açaí). Nahuai couldn't go out all day. He still had a pretty high fever, but the worst was already over.
Day 10: Let's do it again
We tried to go outside. But he couldn't stand up. We only lasted about five minutes.
After stocking up on fever reducers and antibiotics, I left him resting in the room and went for a walk along Copacabana, with Sugarloaf Mountain in the background.
And history repeated itself: lunch in the room, a swim in Ipanema, dinner in the room (and yes, I had açaí again—I’ve already admitted I’m hooked).
Day 11: Farewell to Rio
He no longer had a fever, but he was still very weak and could barely walk.
Our flight to Belo Horizonte was scheduled for 8 p.m., and the airline (Tam) didn’t have any other flights that day that would allow us to reschedule. Plus, a late check-out at the hotel was too expensive (115 BRL)… So I let my poor, recovering friend sleep as long as I could and we left at 12 o’clock sharp. We did, however, leave our bags at the hotel.
Sugar Loaf
We took a taxi to the famous Sugarloaf Mountain (44 BRL per ticket).
How wonderful!
We were lucky with the weather. The light was beautiful, and the view of the city was breathtaking. We relaxed for a while on some lounge chairs with a view.
We also saw our first squirrel monkey in the wild. It’s definitely one of the must-see destinations if you’re visiting Rio.
Corcovado
Since we were short on time, we thought we’d skip the trip to Corcovado and go back to the botanical garden near the hotel.
However, a taxi driver convinced us that we still had time. For 150 BRL, he:
- He took us to Corcovado (the bird's-eye view of Rio de Janeiro's skyline is breathtaking).
- He waited at the entrance while we visited him.
- He went to the hotel to pick up his luggage.
- He drove to Santos Dumont Airport.
By 6 o'clock, we had already gone through the metal detector.
A storm forced the plane we were on to divert from its route, but it wasn't a big deal, especially compared to our previous experience. 🙂
Day 12: Family gathering
We were all already in Belo Horizonte.
After a delicious meal at our hosts' home, we visited the Albert Scharlé Country Club, where the wedding was to be held. The club featured three swimming pools, a lake, small waterfalls, and Brazilian rainforest. What a treat!
Day 13: Preparations
We spent the day helping with the final wedding preparations and experiencing firsthand the hellish traffic in Belo Horizonte.
Day 14: The bachelorette party… without the grooms!
To give the bride and groom some space the day before their wedding, we put on our swimsuits and called a taxi: Our destination: the Scharlé Country Club. The plan was to meet up with the couple there that afternoon for the rehearsal.
However, things didn't go as planned…
Thursday, scheduled
That’s what the sign said that we found on the club’s gate, which was locked tight. “Quinta-feira” means Thursday, “fechado”…you can imagine the rest. We knew we weren’t going to make it, let’s face it.
The worst part? The couple knew about it, but with everything going on, they’d forgotten to let us know. OMG!
But hey! When life gives you lemons, make lemonade!
The bride's father was already staying at the Hotel Solar Corte Real in Sabará, the town closest to the club, and the rest of us would be spending the following night there after the celebration. So the owner made an exception and let us spend the day at the hotel pool.
Everything was great: we relaxed, cooled off, went out for dinner in Sabará, and had two rounds of caipirinhas…
We were having such a good time that when the bride and groom offered to pick us up after the rehearsal (which we didn't attend), we passed!
All that glitters is not gold…
Theft in the room
Yes, unfortunately, 500 BRL was stolen from the bride's father's room while we were toasting with caipirinhas by the pool.
Although they couldn't give him a cash refund, they did deduct the amount from his final bill (and, as we were told, they fired the person involved, who works at the hotel on a temporary basis).
Day 15: The Wedding
The big day had finally arrived!
We returned to the Hotel Solar Corte Real, where we checked in, had lunch, and got ready for the ceremony.
By 6 p.m., all 14 of us godparents were already at the club, competing in two teams (the Oranges and the Limes) to see who knew the most personal details about the couple. I know the other team—the Oranges—won, although I was never quite sure what we were competing for. Honor, I suppose! 🙂
Then the ceremony took place under a beautiful century-old tree:
There were poems, a cappella songs, guitar chords, bare feet on the grass, and a flood of emotions.
And then, let the party begin!
- Live music all night long.
- Dances, dancing, and smiles.
- Canapés to eat in every corner.
- Professional paparazzi (and some not-so-professional ones), snapping away. 😉
- And a bar dedicated exclusively to capiroskas with tropical fruits.
Everything had gone great, until we decided to head back to the hotel…
Something we overlooked
There were no taxis in the area. The dispatch center wasn't answering the phone at that hour (4 a.m.). No one had thought about how we were going to get back to the hotel in Sabará, and the road was long, dark, and unsafe…
We waited for quite a while, and just when we’d almost decided to walk back, a van appeared—as if out of nowhere— and offered to give us a ride to Sabará. Thank goodness!
Opinions are divided. Some think they came to pick up the musicians and their instruments, while others believe they were there to transport other guests… Either way, we owe them a favor—and a big one at that.
Day 16: The Hangover
We had to check out of the hotel at 11, so sleep, sleep… we didn’t get much sleep.
And when we got back to the couple's house, our worst nightmare was waiting for us:
A party across the street with the music (awful, by the way) blaring.
We tried to get some sleep after lunch, though the only ones who actually managed to do so were the two of us. When we woke up, the house was deserted, the doors were locked (with no keys inside), and the music was still pounding in our ears.
Get me out of here!
When they finally rescued us, we ended up at a birthday party. What? Yeah, but at least there was no music, and the dinner was delicious (okay, I'll admit it, there was açaí involved). 🙂
Day 17: Heading to Salvador de Bahía…
If you think there couldn't possibly be any more setbacks on our trip, you're wrong (much to my regret, I might add).
I'll tell you about the rest of the misfortunes and setbacks in the second part of this odyssey through Brazil.
Useful Links
- Flight deals to Brazil: Trabber, eDreams, andMomondo.
- Helicopters over Iguazú.
- B&B Maricà, in Foz do Iguaçu.
- Hotel Baviera, in Foz do Iguaçu.
- Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, located within Iguazú National Park.
- Atlantis Copacabana Hotel, Rio de Janeiro.
- Solar Corte Real Hotel, Sabará (near Belo Horizonte).
- Scharlé Club.
- Get 5% off when you purchase travel insurance with IATI.
Planning your trip to Brazil? You might be interested in this:
- Part Two of This Brazilian Odyssey: Morro de São Paulo and Bahia
- Ilha Grande: A secluded paradise off the coast of Rio de Janeiro.
And if you have any questions about this eventful itinerary through Brazil, leave me a comment right here and I’ll try to answer your questions as soon as possible.
Beautiful photos! Long live the bride and groom!
Haha! Thanks, Mari!