The details of this route between Belo Horizonte, Iguazu Falls, and Rio de Janeiro make up the first part of our trip to Brazil where absolutely everything happened to us:
Cancelled flights, driving across the peninsula in less than 24 hours, harrowing storms, petty theft, unidentified spasms and fevers, plans ruined by a padlock, stranded on the road at 4 in the morning, endless hangovers, get me out of here!…
What I'm about to share happened back in 2010, so it's likely that most of the places I mention below have changed hands and, with them, the quality of their services. Likewise, the prices I mention are almost certainly out of date as well.
Besides, considering the endless string of minor misfortunes that kept piling up, it was impossible for my observations to be, how should I put it?… completely objective.
Got your popcorn ready?
Day 0: Disaster Looms
That morning, as I woke up happy as a clam and stopped by the bakery to treat my coworkers to chocolate croissants, nothing hinted at the storm of headaches heading our way.
It was Friday, December 3, 2010, and the very next day I was heading on vacation to Brazil under the excuse of attending a family wedding.
The wake-up call came midway through the afternoon:
Air traffic controller strike.
Every news broadcast was reporting the exact same thing: Spanish airspace was completely shut down. And the images of overcrowded airports packed with stranded travelers didn't make things look any brighter.
That night, we didn't sleep too well…
Day 1: Tragedy Strikes
The next day, Saturday, the airports had already been militarized, but flights were still grounded.
The road was deserted; the airport was packed.
The decision and the airport
At check-in, they confirm that no planes will be taking off, and that all flights to Brazil are fully booked until the following Tuesday. They send us over to the counters of TAP, the airline we were flying with from Barcelona to Belo Horizonte, with a layover in Lisbon.
All sorts of thoughts run through our minds. We were going to lose precious time with our family in Belo Horizonte, domestic flights, hotel bookings in Iguazu… 2 hours in line gave us plenty of time to weigh our options. And when we finally reach the TAP counter:
No Barcelona-Lisbon flights until Tuesday, but there is one Lisbon-Belo Horizonte the next day.
We accepted the change, thinking it was the option where we'd lose the least money, and sprinted down the stairs—lugging an oversized suitcase (never again)—straight toward the car rental desks.
Imagine our surprise when we realized every single one of them was taking advantage of the flight mess to jack up their prices through the roof. What bastards...
We had the ‘luck’ of finding one company with a Portuguese car, and they ‘only’ charged us €360 to return it in Lisbon within 24 hours. You can sense the sarcasm, right?
So, just like that, we had lost:
- The money for a Barcelona–Lisbon flight.
- A day with our family.
- 360€.
- And all the energy we were about to burn driving across the peninsula.
And yet, we felt lucky compared to all the heartbroken people we left behind at the airport.
Driving across the peninsula
We weren't even 2 hours into the drive when a rock hit the front windshield, leaving a nice little chip in the glass. Noooo! For once, though, luck was on our side and they didn't notice when we dropped it off.
The plateau was covered in snow, but we had no trouble driving along the highway.
We slept right at the entrance to Trujillo, at the first place we could find, Hotel Las Cigüeñas, with rock-hard beds and paper-thin walls.
Day 2: Today, we actually fly
We arrive at the airport 1 hour earlier than expected… We totally forgot about the time difference!
So at Lisbon airport:
- We wander around.
- We have lunch.
- We wander around.
- Coffee + Pastel de Belém.
- We wander around.
- Nap.
- We board!
Last-minute surprises
The flight felt endless. Our seats, right in the middle aisle, weren't very comfortable, and the crying babies all around us kept us from getting any sleep during the 9+ hour flight.
But, the worst part hit 30 minutes before landing…
The captain announced that, for some reason beyond our comprehension, it was impossible to land in Belo Horizonte. And so, we had to keep flying to São Paulo.
The scene was worthy of a picture frame:
- The entire plane was on its feet, with everyone holding their heads in disbelief, to say the least.
- My blood ran cold. I heard my brain cells snap and… nothing else. I froze.
- Nahuai ripped off his headphones and pounded his seat with all his might while literally foaming at the mouth (figuratively speaking, kind of…).
What on earth were we going to do in Brazil's biggest city in the middle of the night?
And, just like waking up from a bad dream, the intercom crackled back to life 5 minutes later to announce it was all a false alarm. We were actually going to land in Belo Horizonte.
All I can say is that we breathed again, we cried, and we clapped—in that exact order.
The bride and groom welcomed us right at the airport, took us home, and practically tucked us into bed. Thank you, guys!
Day 3: Finally in Belo Horizonte
Our Brazilian hosts cooked up a delicious welcome feast: rice and beans, fried cassava, hearts of palm, cheese-stuffed beef, polenta… Mmm…
Afterward, we explored the city a bit, visited Pope's Square, checked out a viewpoint overlooking Belo Horizonte (it's massive!), tried açaí ice cream (they just call it Açai over there, and I instantly got hooked), and watched a dance show featuring over 500 kids. A jam-packed day!
Day 4: Heading to Iguazu
This definitely wasn't our lucky trip when it came to planes…
After breakfast, we set off for Iguazu with a layover in Rio de Janeiro. The first flight was totally normal. But on the second one…
Second time's the charm?
A dark storm cloud parked directly over the Foz do Iguaçu airport kept us from landing. Put that way, it doesn't sound like much, but here's what actually went down:
- The plane starts descending.
- We feel several violent jolts.
- Everyone looks up and trades glances.
- You couldn't see a single thing out the windows.
- In the middle of the turbulence, the plane's nose pulls up and the engines roar to life.
- The sudden acceleration pins us to our seats.
- And we started wondering if we were totally misreading the signs on this trip…
They rerouted us to Curitiba airport where, after a 2-hour wait, a complimentary burger, and plenty of metal detectors, they boarded us onto another plane.
And this time, we finally managed to land in Foz do Iguaçu, although…
The ghost B&B
We had tried contacting B&B Maricà (120 BRL/night), where we had booked our first night, but they never answered the phone.
And when we finally pulled up by taxi around 11:30 PM, nobody answered the doorbell, no matter how much we buzzed. A pitch-black street, barely any streetlights… Thank goodness we asked the taxi driver to wait with us (even if he made us a little uneasy; he was a bit… peculiar).
We hopped back into the car and he drove us to Hotel Baviera—pricier, a bit run-down, and noisy. But hey, it was a hotel, they opened the doors, and gave us four walls and a bed. What more could we ask for at that point?
Day 6: Iguazu, Brazilian side
The great thing about Hotel Baviera, besides a solid breakfast, was that it was only 50 meters from the bus stop connecting the airport to Iguazú National Park.
So, after a 45-minute ride, we showed up at the park entrance, paid the 37 BRL/person admission, and hopped on the bus taking tourists straight to the falls.
We get off at the third stop…
A one-of-a-kind hotel
The Hotel das Cataratas, known today as the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, is the most luxurious place we've ever stayed at, boasting a prime location inside Iguazú National Park.
Not only did it have panoramic views of the falls right at its doorstep, but it also gave you access to the Brazilian side outside of regular visitor hours. Meaning, we had the sunset over Iguazu all to ourselves.
I think it's been one of the most expensive hotels of my life (2 nights for just over €500), but it was totally worth it.
And Iguazu… what can I even say?
- That each viewpoint has even more stunning views than the last?
- That getting soaked by the mist is a can't-miss experience?
- That the roar of the water crashing all around you leaves you completely in awe?
- That the raw power and motion of the waterfalls is totally mesmerizing?
Nothing I can tell you will match the emotions you'll feel when you visit Iguazu Falls.
Boat trip
After walking the entire panoramic trail, enjoying the acrobatics of a litter of baby coatis trying to stay balanced on a branch, and playing paparazzi with a pair of toucans, we had lunch at the Porto Canoas restaurant, with distant views of Devil's Throat (buffet for 40 BRL/person).
Next, we headed back to the hotel and signed up for a boat tour on the Iguazu River (140 BRL/person).
They picked us up at the hotel entrance in a Jeep and drove us through the jungle, telling us all about the local wildlife as we approached the river. There, we boarded a boat and cruised toward the base of the falls. The scenery felt a bit like the Tortuguero canals in Costa Rica. But this time, we ended up right under the waterfalls, totally soaked and happy.
And on the way back, the park had already closed to tourists, so we had all the boardwalks and the sunset practically all to ourselves. What a treat!
Day 7: Iguazu, Argentine side
Since a round-trip taxi to the Argentine side of the park cost around 200–300 BRL, we decided to save some money and do it on our own by taking 4 different types of transport:
- We hopped on the park shuttle towards the entrance gate.
- Then we took the bus connecting the park to Foz airport (3.5 BRL/person each way).
- We got off halfway and caught another bus to Puerto Iguazú, in Argentina (2.5 BRL/person each way).
- At the town's bus station, we grabbed the last bus to the other side of the park (4 BRL/person each way).
In total, it took us 2 hours and we had to get off at the border to get our passports stamped (the bus waits for you). I have to admit it was tiring, but definitely fun.
And when we arrived…
Walking over the falls
It's true that the Brazilian side is more panoramic, but without a doubt, the Argentine side is what gets you closest to the falls.
From the platforms along its three trails, you step, quite literally, right into Iguazu; whether beneath them, halfway up, or directly over the most breathtaking cascade you'll ever see in your life: Devil's Throat. And the view of the waterfalls lined up one after another didn't have much to envy from the Brazilian side's postcards.
My advice?
If you can, visit both sides of Iguazu, starting with the Brazilian side. If you only have the time or budget for one, go for the Argentine side.
I just can't put into words how gorgeous it was.
- You have to see it with your own eyes.
- You have to feel it on your skin.
- You have to hear it with your whole body.
Caipirinha time
On the way back, we used the same route, but when we reached the Brazilian side, the park bus had stopped running, so we had to take a taxi from the gate to the hotel (35 BRL).
We topped off our amazing day with a couple of caipirinhas by the pool.
We said goodbye to the sunset and finished off just like the day before, ordering room service for dinner (having a burger/sandwich was way cheaper than the restaurant buffet).
Day 8: From Iguazu to Rio de Janeiro
I woke up sunburned. Yep, red as a tomato, seriously. Nahuai woke up with body aches and a sore throat, like he had the flu. Off to a great start.
We said goodbye to the boardwalks, which that morning offered the best views of our entire visit—rainbow included—and caught the bus to the entrance.
Right there, we decided to do the 9–10 minute helicopter flight over the falls. The views are gorgeous, though the pilot didn't get very close to them, at least for my taste. So I don't think the experience was quite worth the price.
Fever on the rise
Once we arrived in Rio, we took a prepaid taxi to Hotel Atlantis Copacabana (€247.50/3 nights). Besides being in a great location, it had huge, very comfortable rooms. Its only downside was a pretty neglected rooftop pool.
But with Ipanema and Copacabana beaches just steps away, who needs a pool?
And that's when the fun began:
Nahuai came down with a very high fever, accompanied by chills. We spent almost the entire night awake, getting by on paracetamol, cold showers, and ice wrapped in towels.
You can't imagine how much I regretted not getting travel insurance. Ever since that day, I never leave home without my IATI policy.
Day 9: Rio de Janeiro?
The amoxicillin and strong fever reducers I bought at the nearest pharmacy helped him catch a few winks here and there, though the fever and muscle aches didn't completely go away.
Once he managed to get some sleep, I went out for a walk. Someone tried to rip me off at a juice shop, and I headed back with my tail between my legs and some food to eat in the room.
I left Nahuai taking a nap and headed over to Ipanema Beach for a bit with just what I was wearing (a bikini and sarong) so I wouldn't have anything valuable stolen while swimming. It was the weekend and packed to the brim, but gorgeous nonetheless.
Afterward, I went back to the room and grabbed dinner for both of us (açaí was a must, of course). Nahuai couldn't leave the room all day. His temperature was still pretty high, but the worst was behind us.
Day 10: Repeat
We tried to head outside. But he could barely stand on his feet. We lasted all of 5 minutes.
Once he was stocked up on fever reducers and antibiotics, I left him resting in the room and went for a stroll along Copacabana, with Sugarloaf Mountain in the background.
And history repeated itself: lunch in the room, a swim in Ipanema, dinner in the room (and yep, I had açaí again—I already admitted I was hooked).
Day 11: Farewell to Rio
He didn't have a fever anymore, but he was still very weak—he could barely walk.
Our flight to Belo Horizonte wasn't until 8:00 PM, and the airline (Tam) had no other flights that day to change our schedule. Plus, getting a late check-out at the hotel was way too expensive (115 BRL)... So I let my poor patient sleep as much as possible, and we checked out at 12:00 sharp. We did leave our bags at the hotel, though.
Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar)
We grabbed a taxi to the famous Sugarloaf Mountain (44 BRL/ticket).
What a stunner!
We got really lucky with the weather. The light was gorgeous, and the city views were simply breathtaking. We chilled for a good while on some sun loungers with a view.
We even spotted our first squirrel monkey (or marmoset) roaming free. Definitely a must-see spot if you're visiting Rio.
Corcovado
Running short on time, we thought we'd skip Corcovado and head back to the botanical garden near our hotel instead.
However, a taxi driver convinced us we could totally make it. For 150 BRL, he:
- Drove us up to Corcovado (the bird's-eye view over Rio de Janeiro's skyline is mind-blowing).
- Waited at the entrance while we checked it out.
- Took us back to the hotel to pick up our luggage.
- Drove us straight to Santos Dumont Airport.
By 6:00 PM, we had already cleared security.
A storm forced our plane to divert from its route, but it was no big deal—especially compared to our previous adventure! 🙂
Day 12: Family Gathering
We were all finally together in Belo Horizonte.
After a lovely treat at our hosts' home, we visited the Albert Scharlé country club where the wedding would take place. It featured three pools, a lake, small waterfalls, and lush Brazilian jungle. Pure luxury!
Day 13: Preparations
We spent the day helping out with last-minute wedding errands and getting a firsthand taste of Belo Horizonte's hellish traffic.
Day 14: The Bachelor/Bachelorette Party… Without the Bride and Groom!
To give the couple some space the day before their wedding, we slipped into our swimsuits and called a cab. Destination: the Scharlé country club. The plan was to meet up with the couple there in the afternoon for the rehearsal.
However, things didn't go quite as planned...
Quinta-feira, fechado
That was the sign greeting us on the club's tightly locked gate. Quinta-feira means Thursday, and fechado... you guessed it: closed. Safe to say, our plan was a bust.
The worst part? The bride and groom knew about it, but in all the chaos, they forgot to tell us. OMG!
Hey, when life gives you lemons...!
The bride's father was already staying at the Hotel Solar Corte Real in Sabará, the closest town to the club, and the rest of us were booked there for the night after the wedding. So the owner was super accommodating and let us hang out by the hotel pool for the day.
Everything turned out great: we relaxed, cooled off, headed into Sabará for dinner, knocked back 2 rounds of caipirinhas...
We were having such a blast that when the bride and groom offered to pick us up after their rehearsal (which we missed), we passed!
All that glitters is not gold...
Robbery in the Room
Unfortunately, yes: 500 BRL was stolen from the father of the bride's room while we were toasting with caipirinhas by the pool.
While they couldn't refund him in cash, they did take it off the final bill (and from what they told us, the temporary worker involved was let go).
Day 15: The Wedding
The big day was finally here!
We headed back to Hotel Solar Corte Real, where we checked in, grabbed some lunch, and got dressed up for the ceremony.
By 6:00 PM, all 14 groomsmen and bridesmaids! were at the club, split into two teams (oranges and limes) competing in a trivia game about the couple. The other team, the oranges, won—though I never quite knew what the prize was. Bragging rights, I guess! 🙂
Then the ceremony began beneath a stunning ancient tree:
There were poems, a cappella songs, guitar chords, bare feet in the grass, and lots of heartfelt emotions running high.
And right after that: party time!
- Live music all night long.
- Dancing, laughs, and pure joy.
- Bite-sized appetizers everywhere you turned.
- Professional paparazzi (and a few amateur ones) snapping candid shots. 😉
- And an open bar dedicated entirely to tropical fruit caipiroskas.
Everything had been completely perfect—until we tried to get back to the hotel...
Something we totally overlooked
There were no taxis in the area. No one was answering the phone at the dispatch center at that time of night (4 AM). Nobody had thought about how we were going to get back to the hotel in Sabará, and the road was long, dark, and unsafe…
We waited for quite a while and, just as we had half-decided to start walking back, a van appeared, like a gift from heaven, and offered to give us a ride to Sabará. Phew, what a relief!
Opinions are divided. Some think they came to pick up the musicians and their instruments, others that they were the ride for other guests… Either way, we owe them a huge favor.
Day 16: The Hangover
We had to check out of the hotel by 11, so actual sleep… we barely got any.
And when we got back to the newlyweds' house, our worst nightmare was waiting for us:
A party across the street with the music (horrible, by the way) blasting through the roof.
We tried to get some sleep after lunch, though the only ones who managed it were the two of us. When we woke up, the house was deserted, the doors were locked (with no keys inside), and the music was still drilling into our brains.
Get me out of here!
When they finally rescued us, we ended up at a birthday party. Wait, what? Yeah, but at least there was no music and dinner was delicious (okay, I admit it, açaí was involved). 🙂
Day 17: Heading to Salvador da Bahia…
If you think nothing else could go wrong on our trip, think again (much to my regret, for the record).
I'll tell you about the rest of our mishaps and misfortunes in the second part of this Brazilian odyssey-trip.
Useful links
- Flight deals to Brazil: Trabber, eDreams and Momondo.
- Helicopter rides over Iguazu.
- B&B Maricà, in Foz do Iguaçu.
- Hotel Baviera, in Foz do Iguaçu.
- Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, inside Iguazu National Park.
- Hotel Atlantis Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro.
- Hotel Solar Corte Real, Sabará (near Belo Horizonte).
- Club Scharlé.
- 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
Planning your trip to Brazil? You'll love this:
- Part two of this Brazilian odyssey: Morro de São Paulo and Bahia
- Ilha Grande: A secluded paradise off the coast of Rio de Janeiro.
And if you have any questions about this bumpy Brazil itinerary, leave me a comment right here and I'll do my best to help you out as soon as possible.
Gorgeous photos! Cheers to the happy couple!
Haha! Thanks Mari!