Magnetic Island: the best way to see koalas in the wild

If you want to see koalas in the wild and enjoy beautiful white sand beaches, don't miss Magnetic Island on Australia's Great Barrier Reef.

Why Magnetic Island: in search of Koalas?

One of the objectives of our trip to Australia was to see koalas in the wild.

This type of marsupial, well known throughout the world as a kind of living stuffed animal, is found only on the east and southeast coast of Australia. Their population has plummeted since the European colonization of Australia and today it is very difficult to see them in the wild, due to their low numbers.

In Queensland there are numerous zoos and nature reserves where koalas live in captivity (in some of these places it is possible to cuddle them for a few dollars more) or in semi-freedom (more open areas, but equally limited).

We are against this kind of places. Throughout our travels we have been able to observe the same animal species in the wild and in captivity. In all our experiences of this type:

• Animals in captivity are depressed, sad, lifeless. This becomes apparent when you have recently seen them in the wild. Imagine a flying fish in the sea of Borneo, or in a 2×2 fish tank.
• The impression it leaves on your retina and in your memories to glimpse for 1, 2... 10 seconds an animal in freedom and take a photo of it a little shaken, is a thousand times more moving and stimulating than several hours in a zoo watching hundreds of animals locked up.

So...

Do you want to know how to see koalas in the wild?

Well, the easiest way is to go to an island.

Since their hunting has been banned, some colonies are gradually increasing their population in certain places. When this occurs within a region delimited by the sea, which also contains a protected natural park, the chances of observing them in the wild increase.

According to the information I found, there are three islands in Australia where it is relatively easy to see koalas in the wild:

• Kagaroo Island, near Adelaide, South Australia.
• Raymond Island, in Lake Victoria, south of the mainland.
• Magnetic Island, in the Australian Great Barrier Reef.

We chose Magnetic Island (Maggie, as the locals call it) because it is located in the Great Barrier Reef, which was the main destination of our trip to Australia. And I assure you that we were not disappointed.

When to go

In the wet season, from November to April, when it is also warmer on the island, it is jellyfish season in this area of Australia. During these months it is necessary to get into the water with protective suits.

Some of these jellyfish are totally transparent, you won't know they are there until they sting you, and they are really dangerous and painful. Therefore, if you want to make a beach plan, I recommend you avoid these months.

Although it is true that the water will be colder from May to October. In general it rains very little (something that right now is hurting the vegetation quite a bit), and maximum temperatures vary between 24 and 32ºC, while minimum temperatures range from 13 to 24ºC.

We were on the island for a couple of days at the end of August 2015. The weather was perfect, it did not rain, nor was it too hot. The sea water was quite cold, but there were no jellyfish of any kind.

Directions

Magnetic Island is easily reached by ferry from Townsville with Sealink. The pier can be reached from the city by bus or cab. However, the Greyhound bus line, which connects Cairns with Brisbane, stops directly at the Townsville wharf, right in front of the door of the offices from where the ferry departs.

If you want to move around the east coast of Australia and do not want to rent a car, I recommend this bus company. They are punctual and very comfortable, at a good price. For example, our trip Cairns-Townsville took about 6 hours and cost us 55 Australian dollars per person.

Try to sit in the first seats to enjoy the scenery (unfortunately, you will also see many kangaroos and wallabies run over on the road), and remember to be at the Cairns bus stop 20 minutes before the bus departure time, as the driver needs to organize the luggage by destination.

The boat from Townsville leaves about every hour (I recommend you check the schedules on their website) and takes only 25 minutes to the island. You can buy a round-trip ticket (A$32) if the return trip is within 3 days of the outward journey.

Upon arrival, you can rent a car; although, in our opinion, the bus service is quite good. It is synchronized with the arrival and departure of ships, which makes it very convenient.

We used a daily bus ticket for 7 dollars that allows you to ride as many buses as you need, from any point on the island. If you prefer to pay for individual rides, the driver will ask you for your final destination to calculate the fare to be charged.

Where to Sleep

Maggie has four distinct villages or settlements.

Nelly Bay

It houses the port where boats arrive from Townsville. Just in front of the parking lot you will find the largest supermarket in the area. If your idea is to spend several days there at low cost, eating at home and without a rental car, my suggestion would be to look for a self-catering apartment in this area.

The buses that connect with the rest of the island are synchronized with the arrival and departure of boats, but they do not allow more people to enter than can be seated. If you see that it is a busy day, walk to the previous stop and you will be sure to get a seat. It worked for us.

Horseshoe Bay

It is located on the north side of the island (you can see it on the map at the end of this post). In my opinion, if you are looking to spend a few days in front of the sea, where you only need to take a few steps to get into the water, this is your place to spend the night. The beach is beautiful and very wide, with several restaurants along the promenade.

Arcadia

East of Nelly Bay, it is a middle ground between nature and comfort. In its 'Geoffrey Bay' you will find sunset rock wallabies that you can feed with carrots or apples (don't feed them anything or you will make them sick), or just watch them as they jump and move along the shore.

It is close to 'Alma Bay', a small cove perfect for swimming, and, at the same time, within walking distance of Nelly Bay.

Picnic Bay

It is at the southern end of the island. It is the quietest area in terms of visitors. It has a bay, with a small port and a beach, where you will find some restaurants.

Following the trend of our trips, we spent the night in the latter area. Specifically, in the private room of Airbnb 'Magnetic Villa Retreat'.

Our experience with them was fantastic. It is a huge house, with a terrace and pool, in a quiet area of Picnic Bay. The room, spacious, with a very comfortable bed and private bathroom, is right at the entrance of the house, so you have a lot of privacy.

They have set up a small kitchen for guests with everything you need so you can cook in the house without interfering with their meal times. They provide breakfast, which they invite you to have on the terrace.

It is wonderful to listen only to nature, the squawking of the parrots and other colorful birds, whom I could not name, while you drink the first coffee or tea in the morning. 

Also, if you want, they rent you a car, in case you need or prefer to move around the island with it or go shopping at the supermarket.

The owners, Murray and Rhonda, are a lovely older couple who will help you with anything you need. Murray picked us up at the port and dropped us back there the morning we left at no additional cost. They also gave us all the information we needed to make the most of our short stay (two nights).

What to see or do, and where

Wherever you are in it, if you are a nature lover, keep your eyes peeled.

Sky, sea and land around you are teeming with wonderful species waiting to impress you if you are attentive.

Trekking

There are several marked trails to walk through nature.

Some will take you to the heights of the island, so you can admire its profile from above; others will take you to beautiful coves to rest your feet in its crystal clear waters.

Don't forget to bring water and food in your backpack, as well as sun protection.

We perform the following:

Climbing 'Hawkings Point

Our room was a few steps away from the entrance to this little 15-minute drive.

It is a well-marked path, open in the vegetation, to reach the top-viewpoint of this mountain with beautiful views of Nelly and Picnic Bay. A perfect place to watch the sunset.

Try not to step too far off the trail, as you may encounter snakes. Remember, if you are not a threat to them, they are not a threat to you. Avoid scaring them or, in this case, stepping on them! We didn't see any, they are usually very well hidden out of the way.

Climbing 'The Forts

There is a bus stop at the entrance of this route. It is about 4 kms uphill, ending at some abandoned forts, a legacy of the second world war, with beautiful views of the coast.

Estimated time is 1.5 hours round trip, but this is not significant at all, as you will make dozens of stops along the way to look for, admire and photograph koalas.

This route is the best on the island to see them in the wild.

You will find them dozing in the branches of the trees at the edge of the trail.

As they are quite well camouflaged, visitors usually mark with sticks and branches placed on the ground the position from where one can be observed. Walk attentively to these signs, as many of them help to see animals that would otherwise have gone unnoticed.

There are also old signs, marking places where there is nothing left, but don't despair: you will see them. The most effective way is to ask people you pass in the opposite direction. Everyone will be happy to tell you where they have seen them and give you clues to find them.

We saw a total of 8 different koalas, 5 adults and 3 babies! Watching the babies move around their mothers is amazing. We also saw an adult male very close to the road, which we were able to photograph up close. So many people gathered around him that we disturbed his sleep and he had to go to a quieter area, poor thing!

In the videos you can see some of the best moments we experienced, including the koala's escape and babies moving restlessly around their moms.

Radical Road

This route starts at the same point as the previous one. In 15 minutes from the entrance, down a steep slope, you will reach Arthur Bay, a white sandy cove perfect for lunch and rest after climbing the forts.

If you follow the road, you can reach the following bays, Florence, Radical and Balding Bay, and even reach Horseshoe Bay, where you can take the bus back. We only made it to Arthur Bay, but if we had had one more day on the island we would have spent it doing this tour.

It takes approximately 4 hours from the entrance to Horseshoe Bay, plus the relevant stops and baths in each of the coves, so you should reserve a full day to enjoy this tour.

Beach and diving

The coves I just mentioned: Arthur, Florence, Radical and Balding, are beautiful and quiet, thanks to the fact that their access is complicated (on foot).

Remember to take plenty of water and food with you, as well as sun protection, as you will not find anything in them, apart from some private houses hidden in the undergrowth and almost invisible.

Others, such as Picnic, Geoffrey, Alma and Horseshoe Bay are easily accessible, well connected with bus stops and offer several dining and drinking options.

We didn't get to see Alma Bay, which is actually a small cove, but of the larger ones I would choose Horseshoe Bay for those who want to spend a relaxing day at sea.

It is the largest of all, and all the boats are concentrated at one end of it, while the rest of the beach goes several kilometers into undeveloped vegetation. Therefore, the water looks cleaner in that area and there is much more space. You can choose to move closer to the restaurant area at lunchtime, or move away from it if you want peace and quiet.

For snorkelers or scuba divers I do not recommend coming here. The coral reef and the variety of fish we saw at Magnetic Island are far below the level we enjoy on our excursions from Cairns, around the Whitsundays or at Lady Elliot Island.

There is too much algae, the water is not so clear and the corals are very ordinary. If you find yourself there for other reasons (like the many I just told you about), go ahead and dive there too. You can find wonders, you never know what will happen next to you. We found our first nudibranch on the shore of Arthur Bay, for example.

But if you are only interested in snorkeling, this is not your destination inside the Great Barrier Reef, look for another one. If you want some advice, take a look at the Lady Elliot Island and Cairns posts I wrote a few weeks ago.

In short, Magnetic Island is home to a great biodiversity and options to enjoy nature in its purest form: koalas, rock wallabies, birds, marine life, beautiful beaches and hiking trails.

James Cook named it 'Magnetic' because he believed it contained some kind of material with the ability to alter his compass as he approached. Although this conviction turned out to be erroneous, with very good judgment the island kept its name. And the fact is that Maggie is truly magnetic for nature lovers.

Budget

• Accommodation: 133€ (33€/person/day).
• Transportation: 77€(bus) + 44€(ferry) + 10€(city) (65,5€/person).
• Meals: 72€ (18€/person/day).

In total, we spent 336€ in two days, or 84€ per person per day.

Want to know what were the steps we followed along our route through Australia? Take a look at the post and find inspiration for your own trip:

• The barrier reef off Cairns Cairns.
• The breathtaking Whitsundays.
• The natural oasis of Lady Elliot Island.
• 2 days enjoying Sydney.

And if you are still preparing your trip, don't miss the practical guide to organize your trip to Australia.

If you have any doubts or questions, or need any other details that I haven't mentioned, feel free to leave a comment below. I will be happy to help you in any way I can.

Useful Links

• More information about Magnetic Island.
• Kangaroo Island.
• Raymond Island.
• Greyhound Buses.
• Transportation by Sealink ferry.
• Booking offers.
• Flights to Australia: Trabber, eDreams and Momondo.
• Get 5% off your IATI travel insurance.

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