Discover the Maremma Natural Park: Nature and untouched beaches in southern Tuscany

The Maremma Natural Park hides watchtowers, deer, foxes, birds of prey, and one of Italy's last untouched beaches in southern Tuscany.

Tuscany isn't all green rolling hills, cypresses, and bumping shoulders with crowds in famous hotspots like Siena or Florence.

There are still corners in Tuscany where you can find peaceful moments and connect with nature.

There are still untouched white sand beaches.

Spots where the few adventurers who make it here set up their own shade with a sarong tied to 4 driftwood logs washed ashore over the years.

A place in the province of Grosseto where the Maremma Natural Park protects centuries-old watchtowers, deer, beavers, red foxes, wild boars, land tortoises, fish, birds of prey, and much more alongside one of the last untouched beaches on the Tuscan Mediterranean coast.

Road tripping through Tuscany? Don't miss it…

How to get there

The main visitor center and park entrance of the Maremma Natural Park is located in the small village of Alberese, in Grosseto.

To get there, the easiest way is by car.

There is a large free parking lot right in front of the visitor center. It tends to fill up during peak season, so I recommend arriving early to snag a spot.

There is another paid parking lot right by the beach in Marina di Alberese. However, the number of spots is very limited and the price is way too high. It's really not worth it; you're better off leaving your car in Alberese and taking the shuttle bus from there if that's what you want to do.

The Maremma Natural Park

Basic info

• The Maremma Natural Park features several well-marked hiking trails, plus a dedicated route for cycling lovers. I've added the official trail map at the end of this page.
• The visitor center is open from 8:30 to 16:00 in June. Hours vary depending on the season.
• You can hike all of them self-guided, without a guide, unless you're visiting with a group of more than 20 people or want to join a special excursion: night tours, canoeing, etc.
• Depending on the trail you pick, you'll pay a different rate (usually 10€ per person).
• During peak season, the ticket includes the shuttle bus ride to the park entrance.
• If you're visiting the park for two days in a row, just like we did, your tickets on the second day will be half-price (make sure to keep your ticket from the day before as proof).

Getting around

Depending on what you're after, you have three options:

1. If you just want to spend the day at the beach and skip the entrance fee to the Maremma Natural Park, you can take the bus from Alberese (there's a kiosk near the stop where you can buy tickets) and get off at the last stop: Marina di Alberese. Keep in mind that you'll find a lot more people in this area of the coast than if you actually entered the park.
2. Maybe what you really feel like doing is exploring on two wheels. If that's the case, I recommend renting a bike near the park visitor center after buying your ticket. You'll have several options to choose from, and the standard price is 10€ per day. You'll find bike racks to park it near the beach once you're inside the park (I've marked the spot on the map at the bottom of this page). You can also choose to bike to Marina di Alberese without entering the natural park or paying the park fee.
3. If you want to maximize your chances of spotting some of the wildlife inside the Maremma Natural Park, your best bet is to hike some of its walking trails. That's exactly what we did. Want to know what we found and how? Keep reading.

Trails A5/A6

The combined ticket for both trails costs 6€ per person, and it will take you between 2-3 hours to cover their 5.4 km total distance.

This was our first stop inside the park, and we only ran into a couple of families along the way.

To spot wildlife, you need to tread lightly and stay quiet, so we tried to get some distance from them and… it worked!

We managed to spot a couple of adult does with their tiny fawns on trail A6. Aww!

When they noticed us, the fawns got a little spooked and, instead of running towards their mothers, they ran right towards us.

What an experience!

Trail A2

The next day, since we had already visited the park the day before, we got tickets for the A2 trail at half price: 5€ instead of 10€ per person.

Even though its 14.2 km can be completed in 5 to 6 hours, we spent the whole day inside the nature reserve enjoying the beach before heading back the way we came.

The entrance ticket, as we were told at the office, included the bus ride to Pinottolai. There, a park ranger checked that we had the right pass and pointed us toward the start of the trail.

At first, we strolled in the shade under a pine forest, until we reached the river's course, which we followed almost all the way to its mouth. Along the way, we spotted fish, beavers, and even a tortoise resting on the riverbank.

Once we got close to the sea, we turned to follow the path up to Torre Castel Marino. The views from up there are incredible:

A vast green pine forest, lined with ridges that look as if they were raked with a giant rake, with the beach and the Mediterranean as a backdrop.

Watch out for the mosquitoes up there… They are absolutely starving.

Afterward, we headed down to Torre Collelungo, which also offered a beautiful panoramic view of the coast. Along the trail, we saw deer again, although from further away than the day before.

From there, we continued down to the sea. Just by walking a little bit, we managed to feel completely secluded on an untamed, pristine beach.

Using some wooden logs that time and the tides had piled up on the sand, and following the lead of the other beachgoers (who seemed like locals compared to us), we built an improvised shelter for shade.

And right there, we ate our salad and cheese sandwiches, splashed around in the water, and took a well-deserved siesta.

A few hours later, we headed back toward the bus stop and returned to the agriturismo, equally tired and happy.

Other itineraries

Among the other available trails in the Maremma park, I really wanted to explore:

• The A4, which leads to the gorgeous Cala di Forno. However, this route is so long (18 km) that, given our schedule, it would have left us very little time to actually enjoy the cove itself.
• The bike path. But it was way too hot, and this route ran almost entirely under the blazing sun. Better to save it for cloudier or cooler days.

What to bring

• Comfortable footwear for walking or cycling, depending on the type of activity you decide to do.
• Enough food and water for the whole day (roughly 1.5 liters per person should do).
• A swimsuit, bikini… or nothing at all. As we found out, nudism is permitted on this beach too. And why not?
• Mosquito repellent and sunscreen, both for hiking and lounging in the sun.
• A piece of cloth or a sarong to make your own shade with logs, just like you see in this photo. If I had known, I would have brought a bigger one with me. I'll definitely keep that in mind for next time.

When to go

I'd advise against visiting the Maremma park in the middle of summer.

First, because it will be packed with visitors. Not only on its lovely beach, but also along the hiking trails. In general, this means more ambient noise and, consequently, fewer chances of spotting wildlife (especially mammals).

Plus, in July or August, it will be way too hot to properly enjoy the trails inside the park as they deserve.

In winter, you'll hardly be able to take advantage of its pristine beach for swimming. On the plus side, the forest and the miles-long strip of sand will be practically deserted, just for you.

My recommendation is to visit the Maremma park during the spring. May might be one of the best months. Even if it's not super hot yet, after finishing one of the hikes, you'll definitely fancy a refreshing dip.

We were there during the first weekend of June 2017. It was already very hot and there were quite a few visitors around. However, except for the bus ride, we didn't feel overwhelmed by crowds of tourists at all (most of whom were Italian).

Where to sleep

Near Alberese, you'll find plenty of agriturismi.

We stayed at La Pulledraia del Podere Montegrappa, a country house close to the town center.

We chose it for its proximity to the Maremma park office, planning to leave our car in the agriturismo's parking lot and walk over. But the road wasn't pedestrian-friendly at all—it didn't even have a sidewalk. So, in the end, we took the car every time we wanted to head into the town center.

The rooms are cool and comfortable, and the property is lovely.

Most of the products they serve are organic and homemade. Both dinner and breakfast are served in a dining room, where you share a large banquet table with the rest of the guests.

Breakfast is a bit underwhelming, lacking any kind of savory options. Plus, the bread is scarce and not very appetizing.

Dinner, on the other hand, is really flavorful. It's a set menu that they don't reveal in advance—surprise! It costs 25€ per person and includes three courses, drinks, and desserts. We really enjoyed it; everything was delicious. On the flip side, if you're a picky eater or have allergies, you might want to ask first.

Oh! And don't forget to let them know in advance if you want to eat there, or you'll miss out on a spot. That happened to us on the second night. You need to book during breakfast at the latest. According to the host, she asked us and we didn't reply, though we don't recall that happening at all. Oh well, what can you do!

Given that we ended up taking the car every single time we wanted to go anywhere, and that we didn't hit it off particularly well (I'd dare say the feeling was mutual), next time I'll choose another agriturismo, even if it's a bit further from Alberese.

Even though my experience wasn't 100% perfect (it wasn't terrible either, let's not exaggerate), you might still find this place wonderful. Check it out and decide for yourself.

Budget

• Accommodation + breakfast: 145.8€ (36.45€ per person per night).
• Tickets to the Maremma park: 22€ (11€ per person).
• Meals: 76.45€ (19.2€ per person per day).

In total, excluding gas and tolls, we spent 245€ on a weekend getaway (61.5€ per person per day).

Final thoughts

Looking for a pristine beach and free-roaming wildlife in a Tuscan nature reserve?

You'll find all this and much more in the Maremma park.

Honestly, I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes…

It's incredible that places like this exist in Tuscany, don't you think?

Have you checked out the roofless medieval cathedral hidden nearby yet?

I never get tired of visiting this region. Tell me, what's your favorite spot in Tuscany? I honestly couldn't pick just one… Mmmm…

Useful links

• Itineraries of the Maremma park.
• Opening hours for the park office in Alberese.
• La Pulledraia del Podere Montegrappa.
• Booking deals in Alberese.
• Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
• 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

And if you're on a road trip through Tuscany, you might also be interested in these posts:

• Strolling through Florence.
• Road trip through Siena and Val d'Orcia.
• Tuscany's mysterious roofless cathedral.
• 1-week road trip through Umbria.

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