A Road Trip Through Umbria, Tuscany's Hidden Neighbor

What if I told you that there is a region in central Italy as beautiful as Tuscany but still unknown (or almost unknown)? Umbria will leave you open-mouthed. Don't be the last to get to know it.

Why Umbria

In the shadow of the renowned Italian Tuscany, lies the much lesser known Umbria.

It is located in the center of Italy; so much so, that it falls just below the word ITALY on Google Maps.

And, I assure you, it has nothing to envy to its famous neighbor.

Umbria and Tuscany share the same type of landscape: green fields dotted with slender cypress trees, isolated farmhouses in the plains, medieval walled villages in perfect condition...

However, certain differences invite not to overlook this area of Italy. For example:

• Both Umbria and Tuscany offer a delicious gastronomic experience, although quite different from each other. In Umbria you will find, among others, tasty sausages with unsalted bread, fresh truffles and many recipes based on the more than varied legumes cultivated in the area (some of them unknown to me until now, as is the case of peas).
• In Umbria, many of the medieval villages are of Etruscan origin, a civilization that lived in this area at the time of the Romans.
• Unlike Tuscany, Umbria has no sea. However, its large Trasimeno Lake serves as a beach.
• Umbria is much less known, so crowds are less common in high season. If you like to sightsee in a relaxed way, this is a great option for you.

Umbria has very recently suffered a series of earthquakes that have caused more than 200 deaths and serious architectural damage. The small town of Amatrice was completely destroyed during the earth tremors. And Castelluccio di Norcia has also suffered serious damage, as well as being cut off from communication for a long time.

From this humble blog I would like to send a message of affection and solidarity to those affected and to all the Italian people. In particular, I would like to thank one of our readers, Luis, for his valuable contribution as a volunteer in the Umbria area to help in the reconstruction and care for the victims.

From here I would like to encourage you to show your solidarity with the people affected in the way you think is most convenient. Contributing to the tourist flow could be, for example, a way to boost part of their economy.

When to Go

Climatologically speaking, the best time to visit Umbria is in spring. Temperatures are mild and rainfall is only occasional. In addition, at this time the concentration of visitors will be intermediate.

In summer, however, temperatures can be oppressive and, in general, the number of tourists is much higher. In autumn rains are more common, and in winter it is too cold.

Despite this, during every season of the year you will find something magical in Umbria. Whether it's May flowers in Spello, or snow in December and January in Castellucio di Norcia. Castellucio di Norciaamong many others.

Depending on the value you place on sightseeing away from the crowds, you may want to avoid religious celebrations, Italian or local festivals, and renowned events.

In each of the entries linked to this article you can read the specifications for each place. We did this route through Umbria in April 2016, for 9 days.

How to get around

On the road in Umbria? Just like in the rest of Italy. My advice, take the car.

This will give you freedom of movement, without fixed schedules or delays. You will be able to see places that are difficult to access by public transport, take alternative routes to enjoy landscapes that you have not seen in photos, go at your own pace and be able to decide on the spot, or change your mind, whenever you wish.

However, if you don't feel comfortable driving, here's another suggestion: the train.

This service works quite well in Italy. Almost every town (though not all) has a train station nearby.

In my opinion, despite delays and occasional strikes, the Italian rail network is very good. If you buy your ticket well in advance you can get very cheap prices with 'supereconomy' fares. These fares do not accept changes or cancellations.

On the other hand, if you buy a connecting ticket, and delays prevent you from taking the second leg, don't worry, as you will be put on the next train to the same destination.

If you decide to travel through Italy by train and forget about traffic and parking, I recommend a long vacation, where losing a little time is not a problem. Book your tickets in advance to take advantage of the cheap fares and buy the trips spaced far apart.

Every area you visit will have a thousand sites around it that are also worth seeing.

Bicycle routes, wine tours, neighboring towns, public hot springs, natural parks...

Give yourself some time to enjoy each site. And if you don't have enough time, all the better, so you'll leave with the desire to come back!

Our Route

Lake Trasimeno

We arrived on a Saturday at noon in Castiglione del Lagoone of the most beautiful villages on the shores of the Trasimeno.

It is the largest lake in Italy, practically in the center of Italy. Many Italians spend their summer vacations swimming on its shore, and no wonder. The beauty and tranquility of this place are breathtaking.

We stayed two nights at Le Macerineand our experience was very good. We parked right outside the hotel and went for a snack by the lake. What better way to start our vacation?

The first afternoon we visited the town of Castiglione, a small medieval gem built on top of a hill overlooking the lake and surrounding countryside.

I recommend you to enter the Medieval Fortress and enjoy the panoramic view of the surroundings. It is a real wonder.

That evening we dined for appetizers at Porta Senesewith very good wines and cold meats.

The next day, we cycled part of the route around the lake; specifically, from Castiglione to Pasignano sul Lago.

It was beautiful, but we had such a sunny day that we suffered a bit of heat stroke in the afternoon. So, better not forget your hat and sunscreen.

We rent bicycles at Cicli Valentiniwhose customer service is unbeatable. That night we tried the restaurant L'Acquariospecializing in fish, as the name suggests. It was delicious and cozy.

If you want to know more details about our visit to Lake Trasimeno and what to see in the area, I recommend you to read the post dedicated to it in this link.

Orvieto

The next day, we headed for Orvieto. The road offered us another beautiful panorama of Lake Trasimeno contained between soft green hills under the fog. If you want to know exactly where we passed through, take a look at the map at the bottom of this page. On it I have marked the route we followed with the car.

Orvieto is a walled city built on an ancient Etruscan settlement.

Its privileged position, on top of a mountain, gives it views that you will never tire of contemplating.

In addition, the atmosphere of its streets will transport you to a remote era without much effort. You will only have to go a little off the main road.

Upon arrival in the village, the owners of the B&B Ripa Mediciwhere we would be staying that night, escorted us to the private parking, included in the price. Not only do they offer tastefully decorated rooms overlooking the valley, but their customer service is exceptional.

As we had not yet eaten, we tried to book, without much success, one of the many restaurants that were recommended to us.

It was Easter Monday, so the city was taken over by local tourism. Remember, as far as possible, avoid religious celebrations, especially if you want to visit this area in peace and quiet.

In the end, we managed to eat at the Osteria del Rèwhere they did not take reservations. Great food and even better efficiency of their waitresses, at an unbeatable price!

During the afternoon, we strolled through its streets, visited the imposing Duomo and the Etruscan well, while soaking up its medieval atmosphere and photographing the thousand angles of the valleys surrounding Orvieto.

If you want to know more about what to see and do in this city, check out here the blog post where I talk about it in depth.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we visited the clock tower to enjoy a panoramic view of the city from the heights.

And still eager to see a new perspective, we left it and took secondary roads until we reached the bar/viewpoint Il Belvedere di Orvieto.

In a word:

Spectacular.

It is worth the effort to get here.

Cività di Bagnoregio

Next, we headed for the Cività di Bagnoregioalso known as 'the city that dies'.

Actually, this small town is located in Lazio, not in Umbria. But we were so close, we couldn't pass up the opportunity. And you won't tell me that its imposing image, suspended over the clayey Valle dei Calanchi, wasn't worth it.

As you cross the bridge that connects it to its neighbor, Bagnoregio, you can feel its beauty and fragility in equal measure.

A bubble in time that struggles to survive on a constantly eroding terrain.

Are you going to miss it? You can see where we ate and many more details about this medieval jewel in this post, shared with Orvieto.

Spoleto

That same afternoon, we left for Spoleto, where we would spend the night. We took the road that passes by Lake Corbara and Todi, another beautiful town where we did not have time to stop.

Once arrived at Spoletowe parked in the private square of the B&B A Casa Miawhere the owner gave us a wonderful welcome.

This is a private room for two people, with its own bathroom, attached to a private house right at the gates of the wall that surrounds the town. This places it in a privileged position to walk to the center, since traffic in Spoleto is restricted.

The stay at the B&B A Casa Mia has everything you need, down to the last detail. And the attention received from the owner, who lives in the townhouse, is exceptional.

When you arrive, you find a rich and varied snack waiting for you inside the room. When it gets dark, a tray with herbal teas and pastries is brought to you so that you can have sweet dreams. And after a refreshing rest, breakfast... which left me speechless.

A table for six or eight people was overflowing with all kinds of homemade cakes and cookies, fruit salad, cold meats and savory cakes. There was so much food, I needed extra tables to fit it all in. And to top it all off, it was delicious.

If you travel as a couple to Spoleto, do not hesitate. You won't find a better deal. Of course, they don't accept credit cards, so bring cash.

We took advantage of our stay to walk around the walled city and enjoy the views offered by the fortress or Rocca and the Roman aqueduct. Just across the aqueduct, there are several not very long trekking routes that looked interesting. It was a pity not to have more time to enjoy them.

Piazza del Duomo in Spoleto is famous in Italy for a national television series that was filmed in this area: Don Matteo.

Castelluccio di Norcia

The following morning, we set off for Castelluccio di Norciabut we took a slightly longer route than the one suggested by Google Maps. Thanks to this, we passed by Capodacqua, Pescara and Arcquata del Tronto, and then crossed part of the Sibylline Mountains belonging to the Marche, another region of Italy.

It was a beautiful trail, although we found some snow along the road, even though it was April. Therefore, I advise against this route if you go in winter.

Castelluccio di Norcia and the Piano Grande are famous for the so-called fioritura of lentils, which takes place during the months of June and July.

However, this isolated spot has much more to offer, starting with dozens of mountaineering routes, both on foot and by bicycle. Their accessibility will depend on the weather and the concentration of snow on them.

Upon arrival, we stayed at the Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarteon a half board basis for two nights.

Our room, Belvedere, overlooked the majestic Mount Vettore, and was simply and nicely furnished.

The establishment offers the use of mountain bikes free of charge. Therefore, after having something to eat, we took advantage of this service and rode through part of the piano piccolo on two wheels. The contrast of colors between the dark brown earth and the white of the snow made it an impressive sight.

The only bad thing was the climb back to Castelluccio... too much for me (the photo below proves it).

That night, as well as the following one, we had a delicious dinner at the Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte. Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte.

The next day, we hiked the hiking trail called E13, which I describe in depth in the entry where I talk about Castelluccio di Norcia.

About twenty kilometers around the Grand Piano will leave you breathless, but not because of its difficulty, but because of the beauty and magnificence of the place.

Simply stunning. Not to be missed.

Spello

After a well-deserved night's rest, and a great breakfast at the buffet of our agritourism, we set off to Spello.

We chose a slightly longer road than the recommended fast route through the natural park, and it was worth it. But be prepared for the curves in the road. I remind you that you can see the exact route we took on the map at the bottom of this page.

Spello is another small walled town, one of the many that populate Umbria. This one, in particular, is famous for dressing in flowers, literally, during May and June.

On the Sunday after Pentecost, hundreds of people decorate squares and streets with carpets of flowers carefully placed to form a concrete image. And this only adds to the beauty of its cobblestone streets and the care that its inhabitants put into the gardens and flower pots that dot every door and window sill.

Of course, when we were there, in early April, some of the streets were under construction, and there were still few flowers decorating the city.

We ate a very good piadina for very little money at the Li tre Mammocci. Be warned, they do not have a bathroom. However, public toilets are more or less nearby.

Assisi

A few kilometers from Spello, is located Assisiwhere we would spend the night at the L'Attico B&Bwith beautiful views of the walled town and free parking.

After arriving, we took bus C, which left us in Piazza Matteotti, in the upper part of the city. And it was then that we discovered the beauty hidden in this place.

It resonates in the memory thanks to the famous St. Francis of Assisi(San Francesco di Assisi, in Italian), but this medieval jewel is a magical place, full of narrow streets and cobbled stairways, charming corners and hypnotic viewpoints. It goes far beyond religious beliefs.

We dined at the curious Hosteria Nova Baccanale Caféfrom where you will leave knowing much more about the place and its history, as well as with a full stomach and a satisfied appetite.

You can See more about Assisi in this other blog entry.

Perugia

The next day, we headed for Perugiawhere we would spend the last night and day of our trip.

As the accommodation we had chosen, the B&B Break and Beddid not offer parking, we had to leave our car in one of the free parking areas just outside the city walls. You can see where they are on the map at the bottom of this page or in the article I dedicated entirely to Perugia.

The owner of the B&B Break and BedCharlene, opened the doors of her house to us well before the check-in time with no problem and with a big smile on her face. This is a pleasure to travel with.

He gave us all kinds of recommendations about restaurants, bars, routes, monuments, art, music... He has good suggestions for all tastes!

We ate at Osteria a Prioriwhich turned out to be a great choice. Then we walked around the city and its medieval streets.

Again, a thousand intricate passages, relics of yesteryear at every turn, magical corners and views of the surrounding countryside make up the perfect dreamy atmosphere you imagine when you travel to these places full of history.

Not for nothing is it the capital of Umbria.

Perugia is so special that, from certain viewpoints, you can enjoy panoramic views of other areas of the city. A real wonder, do not miss it.

You can read much more about it in this post.

After a dinner of appetizers at the Umbròwe went to rest. The next day, we had been on the road for 8 nights and 9 days. The time had come to end our getaway and return home.

Our next trip

One of the things we missed was to visit Castelluccio di Norcia during the lentil flowering season, when the piano Grande is covered in incredibly beautiful colors. Of course, it also gets crowded with tourists and traffic, which is not something we are particularly fond of.

However, it must be so spectacular, it will be worth it.

Update - June, 2017: Touring part of southern Italy, we tried to return to Castelluccio di Norcia in fioritura season, but it was impossible to approach it. Because of the earthquakes that happened in the last year, all roads leading to it are closed to traffic. Part of the village is still destroyed due to the tremors. We were heartbroken, both for the situation in Castelluccio and for the many other villages that we saw destroyed in our path.

Around Assisifor example, there are lavender fields that also acquire a spectacular color. In this case, the peak of flowering also occurs between June and July.

Update - June, 2017: During our last trip through southern Italy, we got to see the lavender fields in bloom. Due to a harsh winter, the first bloom had fallen off, we were explained, and the second bloom had not yet finished coming out. So, despite being beautiful and enjoying views of Assisi, the colors were not as spectacular as we had hoped.

There were also towns that we could not visit due to lack of time, such as Gubbio, Narni, Terni or the Marmore waterfalls, among many other places.

I hope I have convinced you that this area of Italy is worth a visit. In the shadow of its famous neighbor, Umbria hides as many treasures as Tuscany, but it suffers less tourism than Tuscany... for now. What are you waiting for, don't be the last to discover it!

Remember, if you need more information or help about this destination, feel free to leave a comment below. I will be happy to help you in any way I can.

Useful Links

• Official website of the Italian railway network.
• Hotel offers in Booking.
• Flight offers to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo and Vueling. 
• Get 5% off your IATI travel insurance.

On route in Umbria and Tuscany? Then I'm sure this will interest you:

• Medieval times, gastronomy and cycling on Lake Trasimeno.
• Orvieto and the dying city: hypnotic beauties.
• Perugia, the romantic capital of Umbria.
• Assisi, much more than a city of pilgrimage.
• Trekking in Castelluccio di Norcia.
• A stroll through Florence.
• Tour of Tuscany: Siena and Val d'Orcia.
• The roofless abbey of San Galgano.
• The natural park of Maremma: the unspoiled beaches of Tuscany.

And if you want to see more of Italy's essentials:

• A weekend in Rome.
• Venice in low season.
• Driving along Lake Como.
• Bologna, the city of arcades.
• The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.

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