Road trip through Umbria, Tuscany's secret neighbor

What if I told you there's a region in central Italy that's just as gorgeous as Tuscany but still largely undiscovered? Umbria is going to blow you away. Don't be the last one to explore it!

Why Umbria

Sitting in the shadow of the renowned Italian Tuscany lies the much lesser-known Umbria.

It's located right in the heart of Italy—so much so that it falls directly under the word ITALY on Google Maps.

And, trust me, it has nothing to envy its famous neighbor for.

Umbria and Tuscany share the very same type of landscape: rolling green fields dotted with slender cypresses, secluded farmhouses scattered across the plains, perfectly preserved walled medieval villages…

However, a few key differences will definitely convince you not to overlook this part of Italy. For example:

• Both Umbria and Tuscany offer a delicious culinary experience, though quite different from each other. In Umbria, you'll find tasty cured meats served with unsalted bread, fresh truffles, and plenty of recipes featuring the diverse range of local legumes (some of which were completely new to me, like roveja).
• In Umbria, many of the medieval villages have Etruscan roots—a civilization that lived in this area back in Roman times.
• Unlike Tuscany, Umbria is landlocked. However, the vast Lake Trasimeno basically acts as its own inland beach.
• Umbria is much less known, meaning crowds are way less common even during peak season. If you love exploring at a relaxed pace, this is definitely the place for you.

Umbria has recently suffered a series of earthquakes that caused over 200 deaths and severe architectural damage. The small town of Amatrice was completely destroyed during the tremors. Castelluccio di Norcia also suffered heavy damage and was cut off from road access for a long time.

From this humble blog, I'd like to send a message of love and solidarity to everyone affected and to all the Italian people. In particular, I'd like to thank one of our readers, Luis, for his invaluable help volunteering in Umbria to aid in the reconstruction and support the victims.

I'd love to encourage you all to show your support for the people affected in whatever way you see fit. Contributing to the local tourism flow, for instance, could be a wonderful way to help boost their economy.

When to Go

Weather-wise, the best time to explore Umbria is in spring. Temperatures are mild and rain is only occasional. Plus, visitor crowds will be pretty moderate around this time.

In summer, on the other hand, temperatures can get pretty overwhelming, and you'll generally find far more tourists. In autumn, rain is more frequent, and in winter it gets quite chilly.

That said, you'll find something magical in Umbria in every single season. Whether it's the May blooms in Spello or the snow in December and January in Castelluccio di Norcia, among many other highlights.

Depending on how much you value escaping the crowds, you might want to avoid religious celebrations, Italian or local holidays, and major events.

In each of the posts linked to this article, you can check out the specific details for every spot. We did this road trip through Umbria in April 2016 over the course of 9 days.

Getting Around

Road tripping through Umbria? Well, just like the rest of Italy, my top tip is to grab a car.

This gives you total freedom—no fixed schedules, no delays. You'll be able to reach hidden spots that are tricky to get to by public transit, take scenic detours to catch views you haven't seen in photos, travel at your own pace, and change your mind on the fly whenever you feel like it.

However, if you're not comfortable driving, here's another great option: the train.

The train network works quite well in Italy. Almost every town (though not all of them) has a railway station nearby.

In my opinion, despite the occasional delay or strike, the Italian rail network is fantastic. If you book your tickets well in advance, you can snag super cheap deals with 'supereconomy' fares. Just keep in mind that these fares don't allow changes or cancellations.

On the flip side, if you book a connecting journey and a delay causes you to miss your second train, don't worry—they'll just put you on the next available train heading to the same destination.

If you decide to travel around Italy by train and skip the hassle of traffic and parking, I'd recommend planning a longer trip where losing a little bit of time won't ruin your day. Book your tickets ahead of time to lock in budget fares, and leave plenty of breathing room between your connections.

Every area you visit will have a thousand incredible spots nearby that are just as worth seeing.

Bike trails, wine tours, neighboring villages, public thermal baths, natural parks…

Give yourself enough time to truly soak up each spot. And if you run out of time, even better—that just means you'll leave eager to come back!

Our Itinerary

Lake Trasimeno

We arrived on a Saturday around midday in Castiglione del Lago, one of the prettiest towns right on the shores of Trasimeno.

It's the largest lake in central Italy. Many Italians spend their summer vacations swimming along its shores, and it's easy to see why! The sheer beauty and peaceful vibe you breathe in here are absolutely breathtaking.

We stayed for two nights at Le Macerine, and we had a wonderful experience. We parked right at the hotel entrance and headed out to grab a sandwich by the lake. What better way to kick off the holidays?

On our first afternoon, we explored the town of Castiglione, a charming little medieval gem perched high on a hill overlooking the lake and surrounding countryside.

I highly recommend heading inside the Medieval Fortress to take in the panoramic views of the area. It's an absolute wonder.

That night, we had an aperitivo-style dinner at Porta Senese, enjoying some fantastic local wines and cured meats.

The next day, we did part of the bike route around the lake; specifically, from Castiglione to Pasignano sul Lago.

It was gorgeous, but we had such a sunny day that we got a bit of sunstroke by the afternoon. So, you'd better not forget your hat or sunscreen.

We rented our bikes at Cicli Valentini, where the customer service is top-notch. That evening, we tried the restaurant L’Acquario, which specializes in fish, as its name suggests. It was delicious and cozy.

If you want to find out more details about our time at Lake Trasimeno and what to see in the area, I recommend checking out the dedicated post at this link.

Orvieto

The next day, we headed towards Orvieto. The drive treated us to another gorgeous panoramic view of Lake Trasimeno nestled among gentle green hills under the mist. If you want to know our exact route, take a look at the map at the bottom of this page. I've marked the route we took by car on it.

Orvieto is a walled city built on an ancient Etruscan settlement.

Its prime location high on a hilltop gives it views you will never get tired of looking at.

Plus, the atmosphere of its streets will effortlessly transport you back in time. You just need to step slightly off the main street.

When we arrived in town, the owners of B&B Ripa Medici, where we were staying that night, guided us to the private parking area included in the price. Not only do they offer rooms with valley views that are tastefully decorated, but their customer service is also exceptional.

Since we hadn't had lunch yet, we tried to book a table at one of the many recommended restaurants, without much luck.

It was Easter Monday, so the city was packed with local tourists. Remember: whenever possible, avoid major religious holidays, especially if you want to explore this area peacefully.

In the end, we managed to grab lunch at Osteria del Rè, which didn't take reservations. Amazing food and even better efficiency from the waitstaff, all at an unbeatable price!

During the afternoon, we strolled along its streets, visited the impressive Duomo and the Etruscan well, all while soaking up its medieval atmosphere and snapping photos of the thousand angles of the valleys surrounding Orvieto.

If you want to know more about what to see and do in this town, take a look here at the blog post where I cover it in detail.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we visited the clock tower to enjoy some panoramic views of the city from above.

Still eager for a fresh perspective, we drove out of town and took back roads until we reached the Il Belvedere di Orvieto bar/viewpoint.

In a word:

Spectacular.

It's totally worth making the trip up here.

Civita di Bagnoregio

Next, we set off for Civita di Bagnoregio, also known as ‘the dying town’.

Actually, this little village is located in Lazio, not Umbria. But we were so close that we couldn't pass up the opportunity. And you can't deny that its striking silhouette, perched over the clayey Valle dei Calanchi, was totally worth it.

As you cross the footbridge connecting it to its neighbor, Bagnoregio, you can feel its beauty and fragility in equal measure.

A bubble in time fighting to survive on constantly eroding ground.

Are you going to miss it? You can see where we ate and find many more details about this medieval gem in this post, shared with Orvieto.

Spoleto

That same afternoon, we left for Spoleto, where we’d be spending the night. We took the route passing by Lago di Corbara and Todi, another gorgeous town where we didn't have time to stop.

Once we arrived in Spoleto, we parked in the private spot at B&B A Casa Mia, where the host gave us a wonderful welcome.

It's a private room for two with an en-suite bathroom, attached to a private house right at the gates of the wall surrounding the town. This puts it in a prime location for walking into the center, since traffic is restricted in Spoleto.

The room at B&B A Casa Mia has everything you could need, down to the very last detail. And the care provided by the host, who lives in the adjoining house, is exceptional.

When you arrive, you find a delicious, varied snack board with everything you could wish for waiting for you right in your room. Once night falls, she brings over a tray of herbal teas and pastries so you have sweet dreams. And after a restful sleep, the breakfast… completely blew me away.

A table sized for six to eight people overflowing with all kinds of homemade cakes and cookies, fruit salad, cold cuts, and savory pies. There was so much food she needed extra side tables to fit it all. And to top it off, it was absolutely delicious.

If you're traveling as a couple to Spoleto, don't hesitate. You won't find better hospitality. Keep in mind though, they don't take cards, so bring cash.

We made the most of our stay by wandering around the walled city and enjoying the views from the fortress (Rocca) and the Roman aqueduct. Right across the aqueduct, several short trekking routes begin that looked really interesting. It was a shame we didn't have more time to explore them.

The Piazza del Duomo in Spoleto is famous across Italy thanks to a national TV series filmed in this area: Don Matteo.

Castelluccio di Norcia

The next morning, we set out for Castelluccio di Norcia, but took a slightly longer route than what Google Maps suggested. Thanks to that, we passed by Capodacqua, Pescara, and Arquata del Tronto, before crossing part of the Sibillini Mountains in Marche, another Italian region.

It was a gorgeous drive, even though we came across some snow by the roadside, despite it being April. Because of that, I wouldn't recommend this route if you're visiting in winter.

Castelluccio di Norcia and the Piano Grande are famous for the so-called lentil fioritura (flowering), which takes place during June and July.

However, this remote spot has so much more to offer, starting with dozens of hiking trails, both on foot and by mountain bike. Their accessibility will depend on the weather and snow cover.

When we arrived, we checked into Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte on a half-board basis for two nights.

Our room, Belvedere, had views of the majestic Mount Vettore, and was decorated in a simple, lovely style.

The property offers free use of mountain bikes. So, after grabbing a bite to eat, we took advantage of the service and rode through part of the Piano Piccolo on two wheels. The contrasting colors between the dark brown soil and the white snow turned the landscape into a breathtaking sight.

The only tough part was the climb back up to Castelluccio… a bit too much for me (the next photo proves it).

That evening, just like the next, we had a delicious dinner at Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte.

The next day, we tackled the hiking trail marked as E13, which I describe in detail in the post where I talk all about Castelluccio di Norcia.

A 20-kilometer trek around the Piano Grande that will leave you breathless—not from the effort, but from the raw beauty and magnificence of the scenery.

Simply stunning. It's an absolute must.

Spello

After a well-deserved night's rest, and a great breakfast at our agriturismo buffet, we headed towards Spello.

We chose a slightly longer way than the recommended quick route, driving through the natural park, and it was totally worth it. That said, get ready for winding roads. Just a reminder that you can see the exact route we took on the map at the bottom of this page.

Spello is another small walled town, one of the many that dot Umbria. This one, in particular, is famous for dressing up in flowers, literally, during May and June.

On the Sunday after Pentecost, hundreds of people decorate squares and streets with flower carpets placed with extreme care to create specific images. And this only adds to the beauty of its cobbled streets and the love its locals put into the gardens and planters that adorn every doorstep and windowsill.

Mind you, when we were there in early April, some of the streets were under construction, and there weren't many flowers decorating the town just yet.

We had a really good and budget-friendly piadina at Li tre Mammocci. Quick heads up, they don't have a restroom. However, public restrooms are relatively close by.

Assisi

Just a few kilometers from Spello lies Assisi, where we spent the night at L’Attico B&B, offering gorgeous views of the walled town and free parking.

Once we arrived, we caught bus C, which dropped us off at Piazza Matteotti in the upper part of town. And that's when we truly discovered the hidden beauty of this place.

It rings a bell thanks to the famous Saint Francis of Assisi (San Francesco di Assisi in Italian), but this medieval gem is a magical place, full of narrow alleys, cobbled stairways, charming corners, and mesmerizing viewpoints. It goes way beyond religious beliefs.

We had dinner at the quirky Hosteria Nova Baccanale Café, where you'll leave knowing much more about the area and its history, plus with a full belly and satisfied appetite.

You can read more about Assisi in this other blog post.

Perugia

The next day, we made our way to Perugia, where we would spend the last day and night of our trip.

Since our chosen accommodation, B&B Break and Bed, didn't offer parking, we had to leave the car in one of the free parking areas outside the town walls. You can see where they are on the map at the bottom of this page or in the post I dedicated entirely to Perugia.

The owner of B&B Break and Bed, Charlene, opened the doors of her home to us well before check-in time with zero issues and a huge smile on her face. Traveling like this is a pure joy.

She gave us all kinds of recommendations for restaurants, bars, routes, monuments, art, music… She has fantastic suggestions for every taste!

We had lunch at Osteria a Priori, which turned out to be an amazing choice. Afterwards, we explored the city and its medieval streets.

Once again, countless winding alleys, relics of the past at every turn, magical hideaways, and open views over the surrounding countryside create the dreamy atmosphere you always picture when traveling to these places steeped in history.

Not for nothing is it the capital of Umbria.

Perugia is so special that, from certain viewpoints around town, you can enjoy panoramic vistas of other parts of the city. A true wonder—don't miss it!

You can read much more about it in this post.

After an appetizer-style dinner at Umbrò, we headed back to rest. By the next day, we had been on the road for 8 nights and 9 days. It was time to wrap up our getaway and head home.

Our next trip

One thing we didn't get around to was visiting Castelluccio di Norcia during the lentil blossom season, when the Piano Grande is blanketed in amazingly beautiful colors. Mind you, it also gets packed with tourists and traffic, which isn't really our thing.

Even so, it must be so spectacular that it's bound to be worth it.

Update – June, 2017: While traveling through southern Italy, we tried to return to Castelluccio di Norcia during the fioritura, but it was impossible to get close. Due to the earthquakes that hit this past year, all roads leading to it are closed to traffic. Part of the town is still in ruins from the tremors. Our hearts broke, both for Castelluccio's situation and for the many other towns we saw devastated along our way.

Around Assisi, for instance, there are lavender fields that also take on a breathtaking color. In this case, peak bloom also happens between June and July.

Update – June, 2017: During our latest trip through southern Italy, we managed to see the lavender fields in bloom. Due to a harsh winter, the first bloom had fallen off, as they explained to us, and the second hadn't fully come in yet. So, although it was pretty and offered lovely views of Assisi, the colors weren't quite as spectacular as we had hoped.

There were also towns we couldn't visit due to lack of time, like Gubbio, Narni, Terni, or the Marmore falls, among many other places.

I hope I've convinced you that this corner of Italy is well worth a visit. In the shadow of its famous neighbor, Umbria hides just as many treasures as Tuscany, but gets far fewer tourist crowds… for now. What are you waiting for? Don't be the last one to discover it!

Remember, if you need more info or help with this destination, feel free to leave a comment below. I'd be delighted to help you with anything I can.

Useful links

• Official Italian railway network website.
• Hotel deals on Booking.
• Flight deals to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling. 
• 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

Road tripping through Umbria and Tuscany? Then I'm sure you'll love this:

• Medieval charm, great food, and cycling around Lake Trasimeno.
• Orvieto and the dying city: hypnotic beauties.
• Perugia, the romantic capital of Umbria.
• Assisi, much more than a pilgrimage town.
• Trekking in Castelluccio di Norcia.
• A stroll through Florence.
• Tuscany road trip: Siena and Val d'Orcia.
• The roofless abbey of San Galgano.
• Maremma Natural Park: Tuscany's pristine beaches.

And if you want to check out more Italy essentials:

• A weekend in Rome.
• Venice in the low season.
• Lake Como road trip.
• Bologna, the city of porticoes.
• The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.

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