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Strolling through Florence: What to see and where to eat like a true Tuscan

10/10/2015 by Celi

Views from the bell tower-Duomo-Florence

Whether you love art or not, Florence is a must-see on your bucket list. The cradle of the Renaissance and the finest Tuscan dishes are waiting for you.

In Florence, you can wander along narrow cobblestone streets, soaking up the shade on hot summer afternoons, while looking up to admire the romantic architecture of its medieval buildings.

You'll walk through other wide, pedestrian-friendly streets where the light shows off the grandeur of the marble façades as you go. You'll have the privilege of taking it all in from every angle imaginable, yet you'll never get tired of looking at it.

And you'll eat like royalty, whatever your budget. What are you waiting for?

It's impossible to see every corner of this city as a tourist. I'm going to share what I've discovered and enjoyed across several visits, but remember, every experience is unique. Go ahead and get lost in its streets to find your own unforgettable spots.

When to go

Thanks to its fame, Florence deals with a massive influx of tourists all year round.

We've visited a couple of times recently: April 2013 and June 2015. I'd advise against going in summer, since the crowds are much bigger and it gets way too hot.

Late winter or spring are much better times to visit.

Landmarks and iconic sights:

Tickets to all the major buildings or complexes are quite pricey, so it's a great idea to do your research beforehand, decide what you really want to see, and, if possible, book your tickets in advance online. Even if it costs a few extra euros compared to the ticket booth, you'll get a reserved time slot and skip the long queues.

Il Duomo

Bell tower from the dome-Duomo-Florence

This majestic cathedral will leave you speechless the moment you step into Piazza del Duomo. It is built with pink, green, and white marble, boasting a gorgeous façade, and surrounded by the Baptistery, Giotto's Bell Tower (both matching the Duomo), and the Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore.

The Cathedral is much more beautiful on the outside than on the inside, since its interior—aside from the dome—is very austere. That's probably why admission is free, though seeing its famous dome from below is definitely worth it.

You can climb this dome for a fee, just like the bell tower.

It's true that the views inside the dome and the panoramic vistas it offers over the surroundings are stunning, but the climb up is very tight. I wouldn't recommend anyone with even a hint of claustrophobia to try it.

The bell tower, which is nearly as tall as the dome, also offers great views of the city, the cathedral itself, and the rolling hills nearby. Plus, while its stairs are narrow, they aren't nearly as claustrophobic as the climb up the dome.

Admission to both is included in a combined ticket that also covers the Baptistery and the museum. In the museum, you'll find an impressive Pietà by Michelangelo and the original Baptistery doors.

Piazza della Signoria

This square is packed with statues, including one of the replicas of Michelangelo's David (the original is in the Galleria dell’Accademia), right in front of the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio.

Inside Palazzo Vecchio you'll find the Torre d'Arnolfo, which is slightly taller than the Duomo's bell tower, and which you can also climb (with a paid ticket) to enjoy Florence from above. I'd definitely suggest heading up one of the two, since the views are totally worth it.

Palazzo Vecchio-Florence

Ponte Vecchio

This bridge is an iconic symbol of Florence, lined with jewelry shops on both sides.

From the bridge, you get a lovely view of the Arno River and the historic palaces flanking it.

Take a stroll along the adjacent bridges to really appreciate its full charm.

Ponte Vecchio Florence

Palazzo Pitti

This grand palace houses several art galleries—some of them temporary—along with the Boboli Gardens. The gardens are the perfect spot to escape the crowds of tourists that flood Florence throughout the year.

Personally, I missed having a café or bar outside where I could sit back and enjoy the peaceful beauty of the grounds (though there is one inside the palace).

Lake in Boboli Gardens - Florence

Galleria degli Uffizi

One of the largest art galleries in Florence. It's so massive that you could easily spend hours upon hours here and never finish seeing it all.

I only recommend it for true Renaissance art enthusiasts.

Piazza di Santa Maria Novella

The Basilica of the same name, sitting at one end, makes for a gorgeous backdrop to the buskers trying their luck in this sunny square; it's a great spot to rest your feet with a cool drink.

Nearby, you'll find the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, one of the few places you can check out for free. The scent inside is absolutely delightful. If you're nearby, definitely pop in.

Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazzale Michelangelo-Florence

Even though it's quite a walk from the historic center, making your way up to this square is absolutely worth it, as the views over the city—with its iconic landmarks set against the sky and the Tuscan hills—are truly unforgettable.

It's even more magical if you can get there just before sunset, when Florence looks simply stunning in the golden light.

Here you'll find one of the two replicas of Michelangelo's David. You can get there on foot (get ready for plenty of stairs and an uphill climb), by bus, or by car.

Where to sleep

Accommodation in Florence is very expensive, and the closer you get to the historic center, the worse it gets.

My tip is to look for a place in Oltrarno, the neighborhood where real Florentines actually live. In fact, locals say this area holds the true spirit of Florence. Room rates here are a bit lower, and it's just a short stroll across the river to the center.

If you're traveling by car, the city center is a headache since parking is steep and access is restricted. However, in Oltrarno you'll find cheaper parking and fewer driving restrictions, at least in the parts further from the river. Either way, keep an eye out for signs marking restricted zones, as enforcement is very strict.

On one trip, we stayed at B&B Monte Oliveto, which was lovely with comfortable, clean rooms. It's located on a quiet street with relatively cheap parking.

We had a bit of bad luck during the night with some rather noisy fellow guests at the B&B, but it didn't seem like a common issue. The owners are a charming couple who will give you all sorts of tips to make the most of Florence. The breakfast is delicious!

You can also find some pretty great deals on Airbnb.

Our experience at the ‘House tour’ apartment was fantastic. It's a newly renovated flat, spotlessly clean, and equipped with everything you could need.

Although it only has one bedroom, it can sleep up to 5 people thanks to a small extra bed and a sofa bed in perfect condition. The location is ideal, just two minutes from the river in a charming, quiet little street.

Whatever you decide, my advice is to book as far in advance as possible. The best value-for-money places sell out fast!

Where to Eat

Vegetable stall-Florence

Central Market

The Central Market is a huge glass building near the Basilica di San Lorenzo, packed with tons of stalls selling typical Tuscan products and food counters, each specializing in a different type of cuisine.

It's totally worth popping in for a look. The food isn't too pricey, and if your travel group can't agree on what to eat, it's the perfect spot for everyone to grab whatever they fancy without compromising.

That said, the place is always buzzing, so expect a fairly high level of background noise.

I’Tuscani

For red meat lovers, trying the Fiorentina steak should definitely be high on your Tuscany bucket list.

I highly recommend the one served at this little restaurant in Oltrarno—it's delicious, reasonably priced, and won't let you down.

When we saw the platter for two arrive, we thought we'd never finish it, but we actually ended up fighting (playfully, of course!) over the last delicious bits stuck to the bone!

I’ Pizzacchiere

Incredible and cheap pizza in a cozy little spot near Piazzale Michelangelo.

Da’ Vinattieri

Despite its great reputation, I didn't actually try the wine. However, I absolutely loved the schiacciata (a type of flatbread) with finocchiona (pork salami with fennel seeds).

Everything is very well priced because it's all to-go—there are no tables or anything like that in this tiny shop.

However, it's just a few steps from Piazza della Signoria, making it the perfect spot to sit on a step and savor your food while watching the crowds of tourists go by.

Palle D’Oro

This restaurant serves budget-friendly set lunch menus featuring plenty of traditional Tuscan dishes.

It's a great pick for eating well without breaking the bank.

It's quite spacious, so you won't need to book ahead.

Bistro del Mare

Fancy a special treat? Been in Italy for a while and had your fill of pasta? Not the biggest fan of red meat?

Well, if you love seafood and don't mind spending a bit more, this restaurant serves up mouthwatering dishes prepared with care, style, and flair. It's worth every penny.

Gelateria La Carraia

There are thousands of gelato shops in Florence, and of course, I haven't tried them all (I wish!). Still, I can promise you that the gelato here is exceptional. Don't miss it!

Useful links

  • B&B Monte Oliveto.
  • Other hotels in Florence.
  • Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
  • 5% discount on IATI insurance.

And if you're touring Italy, make sure to check out these blog posts:

  • Venice in low season.
  • Weekend in Rome.
  • Road trip through Siena and the Val d’Orcia.
  • San Galgano Abbey in Tuscany.
  • Lake Como itinerary.
  • Maremma Natural Park and its pristine beaches.
  • Bologna, the city of porticoes.
  • Road trip through Umbria, Tuscany's secret neighbor.
  • The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.

If you have any questions or need extra details on anything I haven't covered, feel free to leave a comment below. I'll be more than happy to help you out!

Map

Posted in: Travel Tagged as: 2013, 2015, Europe, Italy, Tuscany

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Reader interactions

Comments

  1. Inmaculada Mata says

    03/23/2019 at 12:33

    In July, I'm heading out for six full days to explore Tuscany, staying the whole time in Cortona. What daily routes would you recommend covering around 150 km a day?

    • Celi says

      03/26/2019 at 10:13

      Hi Inma!
      Take a look at this article about Tuscany; it might give you some great ideas for the days you'll be spending in Cortona: https://www.losmundosdeceli.com/ruta-por-la-toscana-siena-y-val-dorcia/

      Best regards,

  2. Francisco Jose Miranda Azurmendi says

    05/11/2018 at 0:59

    Congratulations on your blog and your lovely writing style.

    Your approach to travel is exactly what a traveler needs.

    You've got a new follower!

    • Celi says

      05/12/2018 at 12:10

      Hi Francisco!
      Thank you so much for your comment—it's feedback like this that makes writing such a joy! Sending you a big hug and thanks for following along. 🙂

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