Lake Como route, seasonal romance… high or low season?

Picture yourself by the shores of Lake Como, between gardens and pastel-colored Renaissance palaces reflected in the water.

Like what you see?

Lake Como, located north of Milan, is one of Italy's most romantic and exclusive summer destinations.

And for good reason!

No matter where you look, every single scene is gorgeous.

• A narrow road that hugs the perimeter as it passes through villages frozen in time.
• A church bell tower standing out between the water and the mountains.
• Hundreds of palatial estates surrounded by gardens right by the lake.
• Trompe-l'œil facades: paintings that multiply windows, terraces, and ornaments, putting your observation skills to the test.
• Snowy peaks doubling their beauty in the lake's reflection.
• Swans swimming in pairs next to a pebble beach.
• The bird's-eye views from the mountain hiking trails.

If you were looking for an excuse to fall in love all over again, you've just found it.

When to go

Lake Como is among the most famous travel destinations in Italy. Thanks to its location and terrain, summer temperatures are mild and pleasant. Add to this an unbeatable landscape and stunning historic palazzos, and it becomes a total object of desire for both locals and travelers.

So much so that as soon as the good weather hits, the winding roads tracing its contours get jam-packed with cars. At the same time, hotels sell out or skyrocket in price.

So, if you visit in summer, get ready for the crowds.

Prefer to enjoy this spot without the rush?

I can't promise you'll have it all to yourself, but if you head here in early spring or fall, your chances of discovering Lake Como at a calmer pace are much higher. Mind you, keep in mind that many palazzos close during the low season and there's a greater chance of rain.

We spent 4 days here, two of them gray and rainy, in early March 2017. Though I have to say, there's also something truly magical about seeing the mist floating over the lake, giving the whole scenery that ghostly vibe, don't you think?

Villages and Villas of Lake Como

One of the area's biggest charms is the gorgeous villages dotting the lakeshore.

Historic houses, cobblestone alleys, fishermen out on their boats, pointed bell towers, pastel-colored palaces, and gardens filled with exotic trees.

Como

This is the main town on Lake Como. The name kind of gives it away, right? 🙂

It's considered one of the largest silk producers in Europe. Even so, we didn't notice any over-the-top boasting about it while we were there. Only the presence of the silk museum gave them away.

What is completely unmistakable when you visit is that it's the birthplace of Volta. Yep! The father of the electric battery.

What did we love most about Como?

• The food, mmm… I'll tell you all about that in a bit.
• Strolling along the lakeshore to the Voltiano Museum.
• Wandering the pedestrian streets of its historic center, each one more picturesque than the last.
• Visiting the Duomo for free.
• The panoramic views of the city from the end platform of the breakwater pier.
• The stunning Villa Olmo reflected in the water from the opposite side of town.
• The funicular to Brunate (€5.50 round-trip per person).

Brunate

This small town usually doesn't make the list of the lake's top highlights. However, I loved visiting it.

And not just because of the views it offers over Como's red rooftops, which, by the way, are magnificent. But also because it's the starting point for numerous walks, ranging from easy to moderate, to other scenic viewpoints over the lake.

In our case, we walked from the funicular station to the Faro Voltiano: about a 30-minute uphill stroll through woods and charming houses, with hardly any traffic.

If the sky is clear, I recommend going all the way up to the lighthouse gates and enjoying the view.

Bellagio

This little town is located right at the vertex of the inverted Y formed by Lake Como.

It's one of the most visited spots in the area, and for good reason.

Here you can visit Villa Melzi, enjoy the gardens, watch the boats arrive and depart from the dock, admire historic palazzos, and savor a fish dish caught right in the lake.

Varenna

It is located on the eastern shore of Lake Como, the least touristy and sunniest, not necessarily in that order.

I must say that this was the town I liked the most out of all the ones I visited.

I don't know exactly what made me fall in love with Varenna:

Its melancholic vibe, the lakeside promenade, the stone houses, its steep and narrow alleys, the gnarled trees next to the fishermen's dock, a couple of swans at the door of a restaurant closed for the season, opening the umbrella when it started to rain, or the lovely coffee with homemade pastries and lake views we had at Caffe Varenna.

It is also home to the only famous villa open to the public almost year-round that I was able to find: Villa Monastero.

So, if like me, you visit Lake Como in the low season and can't pass up the chance to see the inside of a historic residence, make note of this address (marked on the map at the end of this page). Its garden is considered one of the most beautiful in the area, along with that of Villa Carlotta. Full admission is 8€ (5€ for gardens only).

Cadenabbia/Griante

More than the town itself, I had a blast with the panoramic lake views you get as a reward at the end of the trail leading up to the church of San Martino.

Trust me, this trek, whose only difficulty is that the way up is all uphill, is so worth it…

If you don't believe me, take a look at the post I wrote about the hiking route to San Martino, and be amazed by the photos… What a spectacle.

Other towns

Of course, in four days I wasn't able to discover everything I would have liked around Lake Como. And, if you already know me, you know that I'm all about slow travel… no rushing from one place to another.

It's much better to enjoy a few things well than to get overwhelmed with too many. I've proven that to myself.

In any case, you might have more time, different interests, or a travel pace distinct from mine. So, here are the destinations that stayed on my wish list:

• Nesso. It must be spectacular to see from the boat.
• Lenno. Here you'll find another famous residence, the Villa Balbianello, whose gardens were used as filming locations for Casino Royale and Star Wars (Episode II). Yes, I know, the latter isn't considered very good. Even the scene filmed at this villa is one of the movie's worst (the most “cheesy” and least believable, at least). But, you can't deny that the gardens were gorgeous.

  

  I won't say more to avoid giving spoilers.
• Tremezzo. This destination is one of the most visited in the area, thanks to Villa Carlotta, the most celebrated villa on Lake Como. It takes its name from a Prussian princess who received this palace as a wedding gift. Both the residence itself and the wonderful surrounding woods and gardens are truly stunning. If you get the chance, don't miss it.

How to get around

This largely depends on your tastes and the time of year you visit Lake Como.

Here are some simple guidelines. But remember, this is your adventure, so enjoy it however you like.

By car

The great thing about driving around the perimeter of the lake in your own vehicle is that:

Traveling by car lets you stop wherever and whenever you feel like it to snap photos, explore the town you've arrived at, or step into a restaurant that just caught your eye.

The downside of this method of transport:

In high season, the roads around the lake get endlessly congested.

Therefore, using your own car to discover every corner of Lake Como in the middle of summer is not a good idea.

An alternative for you:

How does renting a scooter sound to you?

By boat

If you use the ferry to get from one place to another cruising across the lake:

You'll need to stick to its schedules and pay the fare for the trip.

However, with this option,

Not only will you skip high-season road traffic, but you'll also get a unique perspective of the towns you visit, both when arriving and departing the dock.

In my opinion, this is a fantastic alternative during the summer. If you opt for this transport method to explore the lake, I recommend using Bellagio as your base camp.

Where to sleep

The Lake Como area is packed with hotels, historic residences, bed & breakfasts, and summer apartments. In general, prices are quite high, though they drop a bit in winter.

If you feel like staying in Como, one of the most convenient cities for getting around both shores of the lake by car, I've got the perfect place for you: Apartamento Cesare Cantù.

• It has a more than reasonable price for the usual range in the area. We paid 195€ for three nights (32.5€/night/person)
• Its location, on one of the main streets in the historic center of Como , is perfect for wandering the city at any time of day. One of the great perks of this area is that motorized traffic is restricted to residents only.
• They offer very convenient private parking included in the price, in the unrestricted traffic zone, less than 200 meters from the house.
• The apartment is spacious, bright, and super comfortable; suitable for spending anything from a weekend to a whole month's vacation, if you wished.

If you want to spend the night in Como, I highly recommend it.

Where to Eat

For dinner, I encourage you to try the restaurant Natta Café.

It's a charming spot, perfect for organizing a romantic dinner.

Their cured meats are well-known, and I can attest that they have truly earned their fame.

Do you know what lardo is?

Heads up: If you are vegetarian, vegan, or on a diet, forgive me for what's coming next.

Lardo is a typical cured meat from northern Italy, based on a simple slice of pork fatback with pepper, cut very thinly. In general, I'm not a huge fan of eating fat on its own, without any meat. And, even though I had tried it several times, it had never caught my attention.

Until I discovered the lardo they serve in this restaurant… what a delight!

Imagine the highest quality Iberian ham you have ever tasted. Now raise it to the tenth power, leave only the fat, but with a very subtle slice.

That's what you'll be tasting, authentic top-notch lardo. If you get the chance and you usually enjoy cured meats, try it, trust me. It will blow your mind…

During our stay, we also tried Hosteria del Platano, near Varenna. They have delicious fresh pasta dishes, although with somewhat high prices, in my opinion. However, this is quite common in the Lake Como area.

And to put the cherry on top, if you wake up to a gray, cold, and rainy day in Como, there's nothing better than enjoying a hot chocolate in one of the chocolate shops most frequented by the locals of Como: CioccolatItaliani.

Budget

• Accommodation: 195€ (32.5€/night/person).
• Food: 161.5€ (20.5€/person/day).
• Transport: 11€ (funicular) + 80€ (gas and toll).

In total, over the 4 days we spent at Lake Como, we spent a total of 447.5€ (56€/person/day).

Conclusion

If you are looking for a romantic destination, visit Lake Como.

Whatever the time of year, you'll fall in love with it. And don't forget to hike up the trail that leads to the San Martino church to enjoy unique views of the area.

Coming soon, I plan to tell you about the other northern Italian lakes: Garda and Maggiore , specifically. So, if you are planning a route through this area, do two things:

• Let me know by email or in the comments at the end of this article that you're interested in these destinations, so I can push these articles up as much as possible.
• Sign up for my newsletter so I can notify you when I publish them, so you won't have to keep checking back.

Simple as that!

Useful links

• Boat transportation on Lake Como.
• Villa Erba.
• Villa Monastero.
• Villa del Balbianello.
• Villa Carlotta.
• Villa Melzi.
• Apartment Cesare Cantù.
• Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
• 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

And if you are on a road trip across Italy, you might also want to check out the articles dedicated to the region of Tuscany, Umbria, the Amalfi Coast, or iconic capitals like Rome, Florence, or Venice.

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