Food tourism in Genoa: where to eat

Not sure which restaurant to pick in Genoa? After living for 5 years in this northern Italian city, here are my 28 recommendations.

These are the spots where we took our visitors,
where we went to celebrate special occasions,
and where we gathered with friends every Friday.

Most of them serve homemade food and classic Italian dishes, but not all.

Variety is the spice of life, don't you think?

The order doesn't really matter. It depended more on what we were craving that day (and where we could manage to get a reservation):

Pasta, pizza, and other 100% Italian dishes in Genoa

Rosso Carne

Feeling carnivorous?

This is the only restaurant where I always (always, always) ordered one of their varieties of beef tartare.

I never order tartare. I like my meat rare, but not completely raw... Except at this restaurant.

Every single version is delicious (you'll have a hard time picking one).

By the way, the chocolate cake at Rosso Carne could easily be considered a sin. 😉

Locanda Tortuga

Specializing in Ligurian focaccia.

You can't leave Genoa and its surroundings without eating a focaccia.

This restaurant is a great spot to try them for a fair price. I recommend the cacio e pepe (a type of cheese and black pepper) or any of the ones with gorgonzola.

My mouth still waters just thinking about them...

The desserts don't quite hit the mark, but coffee is always great in Italy. 😉

Trattoria Rosmarino

A higher-end restaurant specializing in seafood.

This was my favorite place to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries.

And honestly, even if it was just once or twice a year, it was hard to resist the dishes at this trattoria—especially the cod "Brandacujun" (mind-blowing) and the 3 tuna variations they sometimes have on offer.

I always ordered the same thing, but there are also great meat, pasta, and some vegetarian options.

Vittorio al Mare

A restaurant specializing in fish and seafood with views over Boccadasse beach.

The food is good, but the location is definitely the cherry on top here.

Cavour 21

This restaurant won an award years ago for the best Genoese pesto, and its fame hasn't faded since.

They don't take reservations for small groups, so you either show up well before they open, or you'll be waiting a long time to get a table.

For groups of 8–9 or more they do take reservations, but they require you to get a group set menu where you'll definitely end up with leftovers (that's actually how I managed to try it).

It's true that the food is fantastic (I loved the pastas, both the pesto one and the other included with the menu), but the service is a bit chaotic (way too many customers to manage).

And even with a reservation, we had to wait over 30 minutes at the door.

Bottom line?

I recommend it if you're going as a couple or a tiny group and manage to get in early just by walking past (without a reservation).

Trattoria Ugo

Classic Genoese food centered on pasta, fish, and seafood.

It's a very busy (and somewhat noisy) spot offering great-value lunch menus with generous portions.

Plus, the ingredients they use are top-notch and the recipes are homemade.

Just like eating at a Genoese mamma's house. 🙂

Trattoria da Gianna

Delicious Genoese dishes, specializing in pasta.

I used to love having dinner at this restaurant.

My recommendation?

Order a «Tris di Pesce»: you pick three seafood or fish pastas of your choice (they're all incredible, but the homemade sea bass ravioli was my absolute favorite) and they bring out three platters gradually so the whole table can try all the pasta varieties while they're still hot.

Portion sizes depend on the number of guests, but it's usually plenty for dinner.

That being said, you can always top things off with a tiramisu. 😉

La Forchetta Curiosa

This cozy little restaurant also serves Italian pasta and seafood dishes, honoring the fishing village vibe that flows through Genoa's historic center.

It's mid-to-high range in price, but the quality of the food is outstanding.

Plus, it's located right next to a pedestrian square, so if the weather is nice, I definitely recommend booking a table outside.

Ombre Rosse

Italian food with a unique twist.

At this spot, you'll find a few dishes that are a bit different from other Italian restaurants, especially the vegetarian options.

In particular, the vegetable pies they serve as antipasti are delicious. Highly recommended!

If the weather is good, their outdoor patio is the perfect little oasis for a charming lunch or dinner.

Eataly Genova

This famous Italian chain of gourmet delicatessen supermarkets is packed with local, farm-to-table, and traditional Italian products.

While its specialty products can be pricey, it has an in-house restaurant where you can try seasonal dishes and set menus at a very reasonable price.

Keep in mind, it gets super busy (mainly thanks to its prime location right in the Port of Genoa), so don't expect a super quiet or peaceful meal.

Halloween

Don't let the name fool you.

This restaurant, right in the heart of Nervi's fishing port, serves up some truly delicious pizzas.

You'll have a hard time getting a table without a reservation, but once you sit down, you won't be able to stop eating: focaccia di Recco, pizzas, parmigiana, tiramisu…

I recommend taking a stroll along the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi right after to help walk off the feast. 😉

Montallegro Restaurant

Traveling with a big, hungry group?

This is the only restaurant I know where you can order a full meter of pizza.

Yup, that's right: a one-meter pizza with 4 or 5 different toppings.

The best part about this place? The views—so make sure you try to book a table on the terrace! 😉

The easiest way to get there is to take the Zecca-Righi funicular at the end of Via Garibaldi (I've marked the spot on the map at the bottom of the page) and hop off at the last stop.

La Sosta degli Artisti

Another great pizza spot tucked away among Genoa's «vicoli» (the narrow, atmospheric alleyways).

It gets pretty packed, but you might just snag a spot on the terrace.

Pinsotto

Can't get a table at Halloween?

No worries at all.

Try your luck at Pinsotto (I'd recommend booking here too, though).

The pizzas are just as delicious (if not better!), and if you're a fan of craft beer, this is definitely your spot.

Il Fabbro

Italian food with a creative touch.

I'll admit this wasn't one of my personal favorites, but most of my friends loved heading to Il Fabbro for dinner on Saturday nights.

There must have been a good reason for it! 🙂

Bella Blue

A charming place with mouthwatering dishes.

Prices might be a tad higher than at other restaurants, but the quality of the food totally lives up to it.

Dinner or an aperitivo in Genoa—the choice is yours

Exultate

Delicious, budget-friendly pizzas in a charming square.

What more could you ask for?

Enough room for you and all your friends to sit down for an aperitivo. 😉

They serve half a Margherita pizza per person for free from 7:00 to 8:30 PM with your drink (as an aperitivo), so if you want, you can enjoy an early dinner for just over €10.

Les Rouges

While the food here is super tasty, Les Rouges really stands out for its cocktails and location.

It’s located on the first floor of a Genoese palazzo and still preserves the traditional ceiling frescoes typical of these palaces, giving it a retro vibe that pairs perfectly with its polished yet relaxed style.

I used to love grabbing an aperitivo there (from about 7:00 to 8:00 PM) with a Sottoripa Margarita. Mmmm…

Scurreria Beer and Bagel

If you’re looking for a craft beer bar where you can grab a homemade burger, this is your place.

They’ve got varieties for all tastes, but it tends to get pretty packed. I’d recommend getting there early if you want to snag a table for dinner. 🙂

Blue Marlin

If only all sunsets were like this.

If you’re enjoying the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi in Nervi from April to October (give or take, depending on the weather), make the most of it by wrapping up the day with a cocktail and aperitivo at Blue Marlin.

Judging by how packed it got in high season, lunchtime food must be delicious.

However, we preferred going in the evening, after work, to wrap up the day with a cold beer, focaccia di Recco, fried anchovies, and the sunset.

Bagni Medusa

The aperitivos at Bagni Medusa are fantastic thanks to its location, also in Nervi.

But what’s truly worth it at this restaurant is the fried fish. Spectacular!

Just remember to book ahead, or you’ll find it impossible to stay for more than one beer at this charming Genoese “lido” restaurant.

Bakeries in Genoa

Focaccia e Dintorni

If you fancy a cheap bite sitting on a bench along the steps of Genoa Cathedral, grab your focaccia from this bakery.

My absolute favorites: the Recco-style and the onion (cipolla) one.

Focacceria Buon Appetito

Another fantastic option is picking up your focaccias at Buon Appetito and spending the afternoon having a picnic in Nervi’s massive park.

My favorite gelato spots in Genoa

La Cremeria delle Erbe

One of the best gelato shops in Genoa. And that's saying something, because it’s hard to find bad gelato in Italy.

This one stands out especially for its unique flavor selection.

Antica Gelateria Amedeo

This gelato shop in Boccadasse serves up delicious gelato.

The best part? Once you finally manage to pick a flavor, you can enjoy it right by the water in this charming cove.

Gelateria Chicco

The BEST gelato shop in Genoa.

Alright, maybe "the best" is subjective. But if you head to Nervi, you simply have to drop by. 😉

My top recommendations after 5 years of taste testing:

Regular chocolate (milk chocolate).
Pine nut.
Pistachio.
Coffee.
Coffee semifreddo.

International restaurants in Genoa

Have you been in Italy for a while and fancy trying a different type of food?

Here are my suggestions:

Soraya

Persian food.

Our favorite dishes were the Speciale Soraya (saffron rice with nuts, beef, and marinated chicken) and the Adas Polo (rice with lentils, raisins, and delicious beef-style meatballs).

In autumn, winter, and spring they make a Baklava that will blow your mind—I totally recommend it. 😉

Jay Restaurant

Chinese-Japanese food.

I don't know if it's the best Japanese/Chinese spot in all of Genoa, but Jay's value for money is top-notch, especially considering they offer "All you can eat" menus without skimping on dish quality.

Veracruz

Mexican food.

A spacious, lovely spot to satisfy your Mexican "cravings" with quality dishes.

Useful links

Accommodation and flights:

Hotels and apartments in Genoa.
Flight deal search engines: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.

Are you road-tripping through Italy? Check out the rest of the trips I took over 5 years:

Map

Do you know any other Genoa restaurants worth mentioning?

Tell me in the comments! 🙂