Hiking route from San Fruttuoso to Portofino

In the Portofino Natural Park, there's a tiny, secluded abbey tucked into a turquoise cove that you can only reach on foot or by boat.

Have you heard of San Fruttuoso?

Trail facts & figures

Difficulty: medium.
Distance: 6.3 km (one way).
Elevation gain: 330 m (with steep sections).
Duration: 3 hours.
Starting point: San Fruttuoso.
Finish: Portofino.
Date completed (photos): August, 2017.

Trekking from San Fruttuoso to Portofino

From Camogli to San Fruttuoso by boat

Although you can hike it in either direction, let's assume you're starting from gorgeous Camogli, deal?

You can hike the entire trail from Camogli to Portofino via San Rocco and San Fruttuoso on foot, but you'll need to wake up early and be ready to give your legs a serious workout. 😉

The best option if you don't feel like testing your fitness levels (and just as stunning) is to hop on one of the boats running from Camogli to San Fruttuoso (stopping at Punta Chiappa, €9/one way).

In the useful links section at the bottom of this page, I've left a link to the ferry company with their updated timetables (which change quite a bit depending on the season).

As soon as you leave the harbor, keep your eyes peeled.

The views of Camogli are just as gorgeous from the sea as they are wandering its streets.

San Fruttuoso

I don't really need to say much more because, as soon as you catch a glimpse of San Fruttuoso Abbey set in a tiny cove with crystal-clear turquoise waters, no extra tips will be needed.

It's pretty much impossible to resist going for a swim if the weather's warm, don't you think?

Before moving on, you might want to:

Take a quick dip (definitely).
Soak up some sun on its small beach.
Grab a bite at one of the three beach bars/restaurants.
Visit the inside of the abbey.

Turquoise water beach in San Fruttuoso, Italy

Oh! And if you're into scuba diving, this might catch your eye:

There's a submerged statue of Christ with open arms reaching toward the sky just a few meters off the San Fruttuoso beach: the famous Christ of the Abyss.

Several local outfitters organize dive trips; although, if you've got strong lungs and some experience with freediving, you can spot it with just a snorkel mask.

Climb up to the viewpoint

Had your fill of San Fruttuoso?

Time to hit the trail.

Near the upper part of the abbey, you'll spot a trail marker toward Portofino passing behind the watchtower and the smaller second cove, followed by an uphill climb that keeps going and going in the shade of a pine forest that feels never-ending.

Even though the dirt trail zigzags to ease the slope, this is the most demanding stretch of the hike, so take it easy and catch your breath whenever you need to.

The plateau

After about 2-3 km, you'll reach one of the highest points.

You'll recognize it right away by a set of wooden picnic tables and benches.

Here, the path splits in three:

A very short path leading to a rocky viewpoint.
A trail heading deeper into the mountains in the opposite direction.
And the path continuing in a (nearly) straight line toward Portofino. That's the one you want!

From here on out, an easygoing stretch of about 3 km awaits you: mostly flat, with dappled shade and lovely coastal views along the way.

Heading down to Portofino

After passing several vineyards and local crops, you'll catch a bird's-eye view of Portofino.

Zoom-in on the town and port of Portofino

This is, without a doubt, my favorite perspective.

From here on, it's all a gentle downhill walk along slightly wider paths, sometimes even paved or with some stairs depending on the section.

And that's how you reach the upper part of Portofino.

Once you've strolled around the town square, you'll need to head back here if you want to catch the local bus to Santa Margherita to connect with the train back to Camogli or wherever you're staying.

Another option is to continue on foot along the Passeggiata dei Baci.

Highly recommended if you want to take another dip in the sea before wrapping up the day. 🙂

Portofino

You'll know you're in Portofino when you find yourself in the middle of its main square, surrounded by charming colorful houses stacked like Tetris blocks around a harbor that looks like a toy next to the luxury yachts usually anchored there.

Once you're there, you can continue up to the castle or even make it all the way to the lighthouse if you feel like it.

It all depends on your legs. 😉

When to go

If what you're after is swimming in the sea and sunbathing, the best time to visit is from mid-June to mid-September—basically in summer.

However, besides being quite hot, you'll also run into lots (and lots, and lots) of tourists.

So, if you can skip the swim (or don't mind cold water), any other time of year will be much quieter and way more pleasant for hiking around Portofino Natural Park.

Buildings on the main square of Portofino

What to bring

Food: pack whatever you feel like eating during the trek in your backpack, especially if you plan to spend a sunny day at the beach. Need some inspo?: sandwiches, focaccia, juicy seasonal fruit, nuts…
Water: unless you'd rather buy drinks in San Fruttuoso or Portofino, I recommend bringing at least 1.5 liters per person (in summer, 2 is even better). 😉
Sun protection: Is the sun shining? Then don't forget to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat...
Clothing: Light clothes, comfortable sneakers or hiking boots, and a swimsuit. For the ladies, just a heads-up that going topless isn't really common or well-received in Italy (it might seem silly or surprising to you—it definitely shocked me—but it's much better to respect the local culture, especially as a visitor, rather than challenge it just because things are different back home).
Travel insurance: If you don't have a European Health Insurance Card and want to travel worry-free, book your IATI travel insurance through this link and get a 5% discount. They offer customizable coverage tailored to your needs and pay all medical expenses upfront if you notify them first.

Where to sleep

Since I lived in Genoa for 5 years, just a short 30-minute train ride from Camogli, I never had to look for accommodation in this area.

However, what I can tell you is that prices for hotels in Camogli are much more affordable than places to stay in Portofino (by far).

Take a look for yourself, you'll see. 😉

Where to Eat

Detail of the buildings in Camogli from the sea

Above all, definitely NOT in Portofino.

Unless, of course, you're looking to splurge big time. 😉

In Camogli you'll find plenty of osterias, pizzerias, or, if you prefer takeout, "focaccerias" (bakeries selling slices of focaccia, a local bread topped with cheese, veggies, or meat) that are as cheap as they are delicious.

My favorite kinds were the focaccia di Recco (with a typical local cheese) and the cipolla (onion) one. Yummm...