Beach hopping from Santa Margherita to Portofino

The coastline connecting Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino is dotted with yachts, sailboats, and dreamy little coves tucked away between rocks and pine groves.

Are you coming along to discover them one by one?

It's a really lovely walk, you'll see! 😉

Technical details

• Difficulty: easy.
• Length: 5.2 km (one way).
• Elevation gain:  0 m (coastal route).
• Walking time: 1 hour.
• Start: Santa Margherita (train station).
• Finish: Portofino.
• Date completed (photos): August, 2017.

A coastal walk from Santa Margherita to Portofino

Although you can do the route in either direction, I'm going to assume you got off at the Santa Margherita-Portofino train station (in the town of Santa Margherita) and are getting ready to walk to Portofino.

Shall we begin?

Beach and harbor of Santa Margherita Ligure

You can take your very first dip right at Santa Margherita's beach, although being so close to the marina puts it pretty far down on the ranking of the prettiest spots in the area.

My advice? Keep walking.

You're about to come across way more tempting swim spots. 😉

Minaglia Beach

Right after leaving the port of Santa Margherita behind, you'll spot several beaches where you can choose between renting a sunbed and umbrella at a «lido» or looking for the free area (always with less room than the paid sections).

On the map at the bottom of the page, I've marked Minaglia beach, which definitely has free access. Still, I seem to remember there were a few other public spots before reaching it.

To get to them, all you have to do is follow the pedestrian path on foot that separates the road from the coast.

So you can completely forget about traffic for a good while and focus all your attention on spotting how many shades of blue you can see on the horizon—from the turquoise right by the shore to the deepest blue in the distance.

Shall we keep going?

Giò e Rino, Bau Bau Beach, and Pedale beach

A few meters further along, you'll find a couple of small free beaches: Giò e Rino and Bau Bau Beach.

There's a parking lot nearby (always paid, and always packed to the brim).

Right after that, you'll see a longer lido-beach, Pedale beach.

I'm not sure if that's where the name comes from, but here they rent out «pedalos», «paddle boats», «water bikes», or «pedal boats» (if you have another name for them, let me know in the comments—I'd love to learn a new one!).

Why should you care?

Because when the beaches are swarming with people, renting a paddle boat and heading away from the shore to jump into the water on your own terms and catch a breath of quiet might be just what you need.

Take it from me! 😉

Bay of Paraggi

Want to have your jaw drop?

Then keep going until you hit the Bay of Paraggi.

You might have forgotten what the true shade of turquoise looks like, but here you'll remember it in a single glance (especially if the sun is shining).

Right as you catch sight of the bay in all its glory, coming from Santa Margherita, you'll notice a sort of concrete platform by the sea from which you can access the rocks.

This is one of the two free access points to the bay. It's not the coziest spot to lie down, but it gets great sun exposure.

Of course, if you want to enjoy Paraggi beach in style, you'll have to pay for one of the “lidos” (beach clubs with sun loungers) that take up its main beach.

Another way to enjoy it for free?

If you keep walking a bit further (now without a sidewalk, so watch out for cars), you'll reach the next bus stop. Right next to it is a sign that reads 'Outdoor Portofino' with an arrow pointing down some stairs.

Right there you have a tiny sliver of free beach and kayaks ready to rent in Niasca Bay. 🙂

Cannone Bay

This little cove is located halfway between Paraggi and Portofino.

The catch is that to reach it, you need to keep walking along the road without any sidewalk or shoulder, so you'll need to pay close attention to the traffic.

Right below the Hotel Piccolo Portofino, you'll spot a tiny, picture-perfect rocky cove.

Keep going just a bit further and, right after the curve, you'll see the path down next to a “Spiaggia Libera” sign (free public beach).

Portofino

You're just a few steps away along the shoulderless road from reaching Portofino.

As soon as you see the church, take the street to the left and you'll find yourself right in its main square overlooking the luxury yachts.

If you'd like, once here you can keep going up to the castle, dell’Olivetta beach (it gets little sun, is very shallow, and is pretty uncomfortable due to the pebbles), or even head all the way to the lighthouse.

Passeggiata dei Baci: the alternative route from Paraggi to Portofino

Do you prefer sticking to a pedestrian path the whole way?

So, when you're right in front of Le Carillon restaurant in Paraggi and reach the end of the sidewalk, cross the pedestrian crossing and head up the stairs where the Passeggiata dei Baci (the Walk of Kisses) begins.

It's a lush green trail, set slightly higher up than the road below, offering gorgeous coastal views.

It ends right in front of the Church of San Martino, next to Portofino's main square.

When to go

If what you're after is swimming in the sea and sunbathing, the best time to visit is from mid-June to mid-September—basically in summer.

However, besides being quite hot, you'll also run into lots (and lots, and lots) of tourists.

So, if you can skip swimming (or if you don't mind a chilly dip!), any other time of year will be much quieter and far more pleasant for walking.

What to bring

• Food: pack whatever you feel like eating during the trek in your backpack, especially if you plan to spend a sunny day at the beach. Need some inspo?: sandwiches, focaccia, juicy seasonal fruit, nuts…
• Water: unless you prefer buying drinks at the beach bars along the way, I recommend carrying at least 1 liter per person (in summer, make it 2!). 😉
• Sun protection: Is the sun shining? Then don't forget to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat...
• What to wear: lightweight clothes, sneakers, and a swimsuit, of course. For the ladies: just a heads up that going topless isn't really welcomed in Italy (it might seem silly or surprising, but it's best to respect local culture when traveling rather than challenge it just because things are different back home).
• Travel insurance: If you don't have a European Health Insurance Card and want to travel worry-free, book your IATI travel insurance through this link and get a 5% discount. They offer customizable coverage tailored to your needs and pay all medical expenses upfront if you notify them first.

Where to sleep

Since I lived in Genoa for 5 years—just a short 30-minute train ride from Santa Margherita Ligure—I never had to look for accommodation in this area.

What I can tell you, though, is that hotels in Santa Margherita are way more budget-friendly than places to stay in Portofino (by far!).

Take a look for yourself, you'll see. 😉

Where to Eat

Above all, definitely NOT in Portofino.

Unless, of course, you're looking to splurge big time. 😉

In Santa Margherita you'll find plenty of osterias, pizzerias, or, if you want something to go, “focaccerias” (bakeries selling slices of focaccia topped with cheese, veggies, or cured meats—a local specialty!) that are as delicious as they are affordable.

My favorite kinds were the focaccia di Recco (with a typical local cheese) and the cipolla (onion) one. Yummm...

Useful links

• Official website of Portofino Natural Park (in Italian).
• Accommodation deals in Santa Margherita.
• Hotels in Portofino.
• Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
• 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.

Traveling around Liguria? Then you might also love these destinations:

• Hiking route from San Fruttuoso to Portofino.
• Hiking route from Camogli to Punta Chiappa.
• Exploring the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre.
• Where to eat in Genoa.
• Hiking between Monterosso and Vernazza.
• Hiking between Vernazza and Corniglia.

And not too far away…

• Photo road trip through Tuscany.
• Florence in a weekend.
• What to do in Rome.
• Venice in low season.
• Road trip through Umbria, have you heard of it?
• Thermal baths in Lake Garda.
• Romantic getaway to Lake Como.
• Amalfi Coast itinerary.

Map

Got any questions about this beach-hopping walk from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino?

Drop me a line in the comments! 😉