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Beaches and hiking in the Portofino Natural Park

04/13/2020 by Celi

Turquoise water beach in San Fruttuoso, Italy

Sea or mountains? Who said you had to choose?

In the Portofino Natural Park you can end every hike with a dip in the sea.

The most iconic villages in the natural park

Portofino

Zoom-in on the town and port of Portofino

The village that gives the natural park its name is one of the most exclusive on the Italian coast, despite its small size.

It features a central square surrounded by colorful houses, secluded mountain estates, and a harbor that looks like a toy next to the luxury yachts that usually drop anchor there.

It's well worth making your way here, if only to see this quirky spectacle of contrasts.

Santa Margherita Ligure

Free cove next to Paraggi beach

Thanks to its location on the eastern edge of the park, this coastal town connects the train station with Portofino via a narrow, winding promenade that you can walk along to enjoy the views and beaches, or take by car or bus.

It's a great base camp if you want to stay overnight near Portofino without paying sky-high prices.

Camogli

Camogli Harbor on a very bright day

On the western edge, Camogli is one of the best strategic access points to the Portofino Natural Park.

Not only does it have a train station and walking access to some of its best hiking trails, but it also offers a regular ferry service to San Fruttuoso and Punta Chiappa.

And I'll admit it, Camogli was always my favorite village in the park.

San Rocco

View of Camogli at sunset from Punta Chiappa

This village is located in the heart of the natural park.

You can reach it on foot by walking from Camogli, or take a bus or drive to the beginning of San Rocco.

Several trails start from here heading towards:

  • Punta Chiappa.
  • San Fruttuoso.
  • Portofino.
  • …

San Fruttuoso

Cove with turquoise waters, San Fruttuoso

If you arrive by sea, the sight of San Fruttuoso Abbey set against a small cove with turquoise blue water will leave you speechless.

This isn't a village, but a tiny coastal settlement secluded right in the middle of the Portofino Natural Park, which you can reach by boat or on foot (from Portofino or San Rocco).

Besides enjoying its small beach and touring inside the abbey, you might also want to go scuba diving nearby to see the famous Christ of the Abyss, a submerged statue of Christ with open arms reaching toward the sky, just a few meters off San Fruttuoso beach.

Hiking trails

Trail from San Fruttuoso to Portofino

From all the trips I took around the Portofino Natural Park during the 5 years I lived in Genoa, here are the details and directions for the routes I enjoyed the most (and even repeated):

  • From Camogli to San Rocco and Punta Chiappa.
  • From San Fruttuoso to Portofino.
  • From Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure.
  • From San Rocco to San Fruttuoso and/or Portofino.

What to bring

Walk from Santa Margherita to Portofino
  • Food: pack whatever you feel like eating during the trek in your backpack, especially if you plan to spend a sunny day at the beach. Need some inspo?: sandwiches, focaccia, juicy seasonal fruit, nuts…
  • Water: if you go hiking you'll find water in the villages and at a few spots along the marked trails, but I recommend bringing at least 1 liter of water per person (in summer, make it 1.5 or 2). 😉
  • Sun protection: Is the sun shining? Then don't forget to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat...
  • Clothing: Light clothes, comfortable sneakers or hiking boots, and a swimsuit. For the ladies, just a heads-up that going topless isn't really common or well-received in Italy (it might seem silly or surprising to you—it definitely shocked me—but it's much better to respect the local culture, especially as a visitor, rather than challenge it just because things are different back home).
  • Travel insurance: If you don't have a European Health Insurance Card and want to travel worry-free, book your IATI travel insurance through this link and get a 5% discount. They offer customizable coverage tailored to your needs and pay all medical expenses upfront if you notify them first.

When to go

Church and Tower of Camogli, Italy

If what you're after is swimming in the sea and sunbathing, the best time to visit is from mid-June to mid-September—basically in summer.

However, besides being quite hot, you'll also run into crowds of tourists in the villages and beaches.

So, if you can skip the swim (or don't mind cold water), any other time of year will be much quieter and way more pleasant for hiking around Portofino Natural Park.

Where to sleep

Pastel-colored facades on the Camogli promenade, Italy

Living in Genoa for 5 years, just a short 30-minute train ride from Camogli, I never had to look for accommodation in this area.

However, what I can tell you is that prices for hotels in Camogli are much more affordable than places to stay in Portofino (by far).

Take a look, you'll see. 😉

Useful links

  • National train network – Trenitalia.
  • Boats Camogli – San Fruttuoso.
  • Official website of Portofino Natural Park (in Italian).
  • Accommodation deals in Camogli.
  • Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
  • 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
Panoramic view of the port of Camogli, Portofino, Italy

Traveling around Liguria? Then you might also love these destinations:

  • Discover the charms of Camogli.
  • Hiking route from San Fruttuoso to Portofino.
  • Hiking route from Camogli to Punta Chiappa.
  • Beach hopping from Santa Margherita to Portofino.
  • Exploring the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre.
  • Where to eat in Genoa.
  • Hiking between Monterosso and Vernazza.
  • Hiking between Vernazza and Corniglia.

And not too far away…

  • Photo road trip through Tuscany.
  • Florence in a weekend.
  • What to do in Rome.
  • Venice in low season.
  • Road trip through Umbria, have you been?
  • Thermal baths in Lake Garda.
  • Romantic getaway to Lake Como.
  • Amalfi Coast itinerary.

Map

Do you know of any other hiking trails in the Portofino Natural Park that you would recommend?

Leave it in the comments. Thanks!

Published in: Travel Tagged as: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, Europe, Italy, Portofino, Italian Villages, Trekking

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