The beach or the mountains? Who said you had to choose?
In the Portofino Natural Park, you can end each hike with a dip in the sea.
The most iconic towns in the natural park
Portofino
The town that gives the natural park its name is one of the most exclusive on the Italian coast, despite its small size.
It features a central square surrounded by colorful little houses, palaces nestled in the mountains, and a harbor that looks like a toy when compared to the luxury yachts that often anchor there.
It's worth coming here, even if it's just to see this strange spectacle of contrasts.
Santa Margherita Ligure
Thanks to its location east of the park, this coastal town connects the train station to Portofino via a narrow, winding seaside promenade that you can explore on foot—to enjoy the views and beaches—or by car or bus.
It's a good place to stay if you want to spend the night near Portofino without paying sky-high prices.
Camogli
At the western end, Camogli is one of the best strategic access points to the Portofino Nature Reserve.
Not only does it have a train station and walking access to some of its best hiking trails, but it also has a regular ferry service to San Fruttuoso and Punta Chiappa.
And I'll admit it— Camogli has always been my favorite town in the park.
Saint Rocco
This town is located within the natural park.
You can get there on foot from Camogli, or take a bus or drive to the trailhead at San Rocco.
Numerous trails lead from here to:
- Punta Chiappa.
- San Fruttuoso.
- Portofino.
- …
San Fruttuoso
If you're coming from the sea, the sight of the Abbey of Saint Fruttuoso perched above a small cove with turquoise-blue water will leave you speechless.
This isn't a town, but rather a small, isolated coastal settlement in the middle of the Portofino Natural Park, which you can reach by boat or on foot (from Portofino or San Rocco).
In addition to enjoying its small beach and touring the interior of the abbey, you might also be interested in going scuba diving in the surrounding area to see the famous Christ of the Abyss, a statue of Christ with his arms outstretched toward the sky, submerged just a few meters off the beach at San Fruttuoso.
Hiking Trails
Based on the visits I made to the Portofino Nature Reserve during the five years I lived in Genoa, here are the details and directions for the trails I enjoyed the most (and even revisited):
- From Camogli to San Rocco and Punta Chiappa.
- From San Fruttuoso to Portofino.
- From Portofino to Santa Margherita Ligure.
- From San Rocco to San Fruttuoso and/or Portofino.
What to bring
- Food: pack whatever you feel like eating during the trek in your backpack, especially if you plan to spend a sunny day at the beach. Need some inspo?: sandwiches, focaccia, juicy seasonal fruit, nuts…
- Water: If you go hiking, you’ll find water in the villages and at a few spots along the marked trails, but I recommend bringing at least 1 liter of water per person (in the summer, 1.5 or 2 liters is better). 😉
- Sun protection: Is the sun shining? Then don't forget to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat...
- Clothing: Light clothes, comfortable sneakers or hiking boots, and a swimsuit. For the ladies, just a heads-up that going topless isn't really common or well-received in Italy (it might seem silly or surprising to you—it definitely shocked me—but it's much better to respect the local culture, especially as a visitor, rather than challenge it just because things are different back home).
- Travel insurance: If you don't have a European Health Insurance Card and want to travel worry-free, book your IATI travel insurance through this link and get a 5% discount. They offer customizable coverage tailored to your needs and pay all medical expenses upfront if you notify them first.
When to go
If what you're after is swimming in the sea and sunbathing, the best time to visit is from mid-June to mid-September—basically in summer.
However, in addition to the heat, you'll also find crowds of tourists in the towns and on the beaches.
So, if you can skip the swim (or don't mind cold water), any other time of year will be much quieter and way more pleasant for hiking around Portofino Natural Park.
Where to sleep
Since I lived in Genoa for five years—just a 30-minute train ride from Camogli—I never had to look for a place to stay in that area.
However, what I can tell you is that prices for hotels in Camogli are much more affordable than places to stay in Portofino (by far).
Check it out—you'll see. 😉
Useful links
- National train network – Trenitalia.
- Boats Camogli – San Fruttuoso.
- Official website of Portofino Natural Park (in Italian).
- Accommodation deals in Camogli.
- Flights to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount when booking your travel insurance with IATI.
Traveling around Liguria? Then you might also love these destinations:
- Discover the charms of Camogli.
- Hiking route from San Fruttuoso to Portofino.
- Hiking route from Camogli to Punta Chiappa.
- Beach hopping from Santa Margherita to Portofino.
- Exploring the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre.
- Where to eat in Genoa.
- Hiking between Monterosso and Vernazza.
- Hiking between Vernazza and Corniglia.
And not too far away…
- Photo road trip through Tuscany.
- Florence in a weekend.
- What to do in Rome.
- Venice in low season.
- Road trip through Umbria, have you been?
- Thermal baths in Lake Garda.
- Romantic getaway to Lake Como.
- Amalfi Coast itinerary.
Map
Do you know of any other hiking trails in the Portofino Natural Park that you would recommend?
Leave it in the comments. Thanks!