Perugia, in central Italy, is an example of a medieval city full of life, romantic walks, good food and secret corners.
A walled city on top of a hill, you will fall in love with its cobblestone streets and walls that exude history.
If you've been around Umbria a bit, it won't surprise you at all that its capital is a perfect example of a medieval village, but in a big way.
I invite you to walk around it and look for its limits, because the views of the region offered by its viewpoints will take your breath away.
When to go
As in the rest of Umbria, during the summer it is too hot and in winter the rains are abundant; not in vain, this region is the green heart of Italy.
The best time to visit the area is in spring, when temperatures are milder and rainfall is less frequent.
We toured it in early April 2016 and the weather was quite good, although clouds were always present.
Directions
Perugia is easy to reach by train, as it is the capital of Umbria.
You will find fast connections to cities such as Rome, Florence or Milan, among others. This form of public transport is a good option in Italy (despite its occasional delays).
However, if you are touring Italy, the most comfortable way to visit the country, and its hidden corners, is by car, either your own or a rental car.
In general, all the parking you will find within Perugia is paid parking. Some hotels do offer parking, but they charge quite a bit for it.
The most economical option is to park on the outskirts of the wall. There are some areas where parking is free, although also limited. I have marked the ones I know of on the map at the bottom of this page.
Lacking surveillance, if you are going to leave your car in these esplanades overnight, I recommend that you do not forget anything of value inside. In spite of that, I parked my car there overnight and there was no problem.
What to see
Perugia is a charming place, full of beautiful streets and spectacular views over the green fields of Umbria. Thanks to its position on an irregular hill, it is possible to see parts of it from some viewpoints that are located inside.
I invite you to walk through it and discover the charm of its corners.
On the map at the bottom of this page I have marked some of the routes we liked the most.
The cathedral, although it looks rather mediocre on the outside, compared to other temples that you may have seen in Italy (such as, for example, those in Venice), has a very nice and elegant appearance. Venice, Florence o Siena), it is worth to be seen inside (free entrance).
First of all, be sure to visit the Rocca Paolina (also free): the well-preserved structure of a subway settlement on which was built the Perugia you see today.
The escalators that connect the lower and upper part of the city pass through it, you can't miss it.
Where to stay
Hotels in the area have average prices by Italian standards, but parking is rarely included, which makes the stay much more expensive.
As I have already mentioned, we opted to park for free outside the wall (at our own risk), and walk to the B&B Break and Bedvery close to the center.
I can assure you that it was a success. For 50€ we enjoyed a private bathroom (although outside the room), a spacious room, good internet connection and a very comfortable bed.
Charlene welcomed us in a charming way long before check-in time and provided us with a map with all the details and a wide range of recommendations to enjoy Perugia according to each one's preferences (music, sweets, restaurants, bars, routes through the city, emblematic buildings... and much more).
It also prepares a delicious breakfast, with French toast, biscuits and homemade bread.
The only downside of the place is that the doors of the rooms and bathrooms make some noise, so during the night it is possible that someone wakes you up going to the bathroom or getting up early.
However, in my opinion, it is difficult to find a place in the center with this great quality/price ratio. Don't hesitate!
Where to eat
In Perugia, as in all of Umbria, the food is delicious.
If you like good sausages, you can enjoy them with the typical unsalted bread of the area. Don't worry, as long as you eat it with something tasty, you will like it. Just avoid eating it alone!
I highly recommend the Osteria a Priori.
It has a great wine list and its dishes are delicious, at a more than fair price (we paid 37€ for two glasses of wine, 3 courses and a dessert).
We were lucky enough to get a table at noon and liked it so much that we tried to make a reservation for the same night. Unfortunately, it was already full. So, if you can, call ahead.
However, if you prefer to opt for something more economical, you can visit a bar that offers snacks in the afternoon/evening, approximately from 6.30 to 9.00 a.m., also known as apericena.
This is a good option to save money on your dinners if you are traveling in Italy, as long as you are not extremely hungry. Just don't expect the food to be exquisite, far from it, but simply acceptable.
A good choice in Perugia is the bar Umbròwhere, for 7€, you can have a glass of wine or Spritz while eating whatever you like from the free buffet.
The place is actually a combination bar and supermarket selling mostly local products.
You must buy your drink near the entrance and then cross the tent to get to the buffet area. By the way, haven't you tried the Spritz, a famous Italian cocktail of Venetian origin? Don't take much longer!
Budget
- Accommodation: 50€, 25€ per person per night (breakfast included).
- Meal: 51€, 25,5€ per person.
- Falling in love with Perugia: completely free.
In total, we spent 101€ in one day, 50.5€ per head.
Useful Links
- Our accommodation, B&B Break and Bed.
- Flight offers to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo and Vueling.
- Get 5% off your IATI travel insurance.
On route in Umbria and Tuscany? Then I'm sure this will interest you:
- A week's tour of Umbria.
- Orvieto and the dying city: hypnotic beauties.
- Medieval times, gastronomy and cycling on Lake Trasimeno.
- Assisi, much more than a city of pilgrimage.
- Trekking in Castelluccio di Norcia.
- A stroll through Florence.
- Tour of Tuscany: Siena and Val d'Orcia.
- The roofless abbey of San Galgano.
- The natural park of Maremma: the unspoiled beaches of Tuscany.
And if you want to see more of Italy's essentials:
- A weekend in Rome.
- Venice in low season.
- Driving along Lake Como.
- Bologna, the city of arcades.
- The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.
- Discover the 5 Terre village by village.
I hope I have convinced you that Perugia is worth a visit if you are in central Italy. Its medieval streets and the landscapes of its surroundings are unparalleled.
Also, if you are driving around the area, do not miss the rest of Umbria, I assure you that you will not be disappointed.
And remember, if you need more information about this or any other destination, feel free to leave a comment below. I will be happy to help you in any way I can.