Perugia, in central Italy, is a prime example of a medieval city full of life, romantic strolls, great gastronomy, and secret corners.
A walled hilltop city that will make you fall in love with its cobblestone streets and walls steeped in history.
If you've traveled a bit around Umbria, it won't surprise you at all that its capital is a textbook medieval town, but on a grand scale.
I invite you to explore it on foot and wander to its edges—the views of the region from its viewpoints will leave you breathless.
When to go
Like the rest of Umbria, summer gets way too hot and winter brings plenty of rain; after all, this region makes up the green heart of Italy.
The best time to visit the area is in spring, when temperatures are milder and rain is less frequent.
We visited in early April 2016 and the weather was quite good, although the clouds were always lingering around.
How to get there
Getting to Perugia is easy by train, since it's the capital of Umbria.
You'll find quick connections to cities like Rome, Florence, or Milan, among others. This mode of public transport is a great option in Italy (despite occasional delays).
However, if you're on a road trip through Italy, the most convenient way to visit the country and its most hidden corners is by car, whether your own or a rental.
Generally, all parking you'll find within Perugia is paid. Some hotels offer parking, but they charge quite a bit for it.
The most budget-friendly option is to park outside the city walls. There are a few areas where parking is free, though spots are limited. I've marked the ones I know on the map at the bottom of this page.
Since these lots are unguarded, if you leave your car there overnight, I recommend not leaving anything valuable inside. That said, I parked my car there all night and had zero issues.
What to see
Perugia is a charming place, packed with gorgeous streets and spectacular views over the green fields of Umbria. Thanks to its hilltop setting on uneven ground, you can catch glimpses of different parts of the city from various viewpoints scattered throughout.
I invite you to stroll around and discover the charm of its hidden corners.
On the map at the bottom of this page, I've marked some of the routes we loved most.
The cathedral, even if it looks pretty modest from the outside compared to other temples you might have seen in Italy (like those in Venice, Florence, or Siena), is definitely worth checking out inside (free admission).
Above all, make sure not to miss the Rocca Paolina (also free): the well-preserved underground fortress over which the Perugia you see today was built.
The escalators connecting the lower and upper parts of the city run right through it, so you can't miss it.
Where to sleep
Hotels in the area have average prices by Italian standards, but parking is rarely included, which drives up the cost of your stay significantly.
As I mentioned, we chose to park for free outside the city walls (at our own risk) and walk to the B&B Break and Bed, very close to the center.
I can tell you it was a total hit. For €50, we got a private bathroom (though outside the room), a spacious bedroom, good Wi-Fi, and a super comfy bed.
Charlene gave us a lovely welcome well before check-in time and gave us a super detailed map with tons of recommendations to enjoy Perugia according to your tastes (music, sweets, restaurants, bars, city routes, iconic landmarks… and much more).
Plus, she whips up a delicious breakfast with French toast, cakes, and homemade bread.
The only downside is that the room and bathroom doors are a bit noisy, so during the night someone might wake you up on their way to the bathroom or when getting up early.
Still, in my opinion, it's hard to find a spot in the city center with this fantastic value for money. Don't think twice!
Where to Eat
In Perugia, like all over Umbria, the food is delicious.
If you love good cured meats, you can enjoy them with the region's typical unsalted bread. Don't worry—as long as you pair it with something flavorful, you'll love it. Just avoid eating it plain!
I highly recommend Osteria a Priori.
It has an extensive wine list and their dishes are delicious, at a very fair price (we paid €37 for two glasses of wine, 3 dishes, and a dessert).
We were lucky enough to grab a table at lunchtime and liked it so much we tried to book for that same night. Unfortunately, they were fully booked. So, if you can, call ahead!
However, if you prefer a more budget-friendly option, you can visit a bar that offers late afternoon/evening appetizers, roughly from 6:30 to 9:00 PM, also known as apericena.
This is a great way to save on dinners while traveling in Italy, as long as you're not starving. Just don't expect the food to be gourmet—it's simply decent.
A great pick in Perugia is the bar Umbrò, where for €7 you can get a glass of wine or a Spritz while eating whatever you like from the all-you-can-eat buffet.
The place is actually a mix of a bar and a local grocery market.
You get your drink near the entrance and then walk through the shop to reach the buffet area. By the way, haven't you tried a Spritz yet—the famous Italian cocktail originally from Venice? Don't wait any longer!
Budget
- Accommodation: €50, €25 per person per night (breakfast included).
- Food: €51, €25.50 per person.
- Falling in love with Perugia: completely free.
In total, we spent €101 for one day, €50.50 per person.
Useful links
- Our accommodation, B&B Break and Bed.
- Flight deals to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo, and Vueling.
- 5% discount on your IATI travel insurance.
Road tripping through Umbria and Tuscany? Then I'm sure you'll love this:
- A one-week road trip through Umbria.
- Orvieto and the dying city: hypnotic beauties.
- Medieval charm, great food, and cycling around Lake Trasimeno.
- Assisi, much more than a pilgrimage town.
- Trekking in Castelluccio di Norcia.
- A stroll through Florence.
- Tuscany road trip: Siena and Val d'Orcia.
- The roofless abbey of San Galgano.
- Maremma Natural Park: Tuscany's pristine beaches.
And if you want to check out more Italy essentials:
- A weekend in Rome.
- Venice in the low season.
- Lake Como road trip.
- Bologna, the city of porticoes.
- The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.
- Discover the Cinque Terre village by village.
I hope I’ve convinced you that Perugia is well worth a visit if you find yourself in central Italy. Its medieval streets and the surrounding views are truly unbeatable.
Plus, if you're on a road trip in the area, don't miss the chance to explore the rest of Umbria—I promise it won't disappoint!
And remember, if you need more info on this or any other destination, feel free to drop a comment below. I'd love to help you out however I can!