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Hiking in Castelluccio di Norcia

May 1, 2016 by Celi

Piano Grande, near Castelluccio de Norcia, Italy

Castelluccio de Norcia is famous in Italy for its blooming season. Located near Mount Vettore, it is a perfect starting point for exploring the Sibillini Mountains.

The Sibillini Mountains Natural Park is a relatively unknown destination in Italy, compared to other regions of the country. It is located between the Marche region to the east and Umbria to the west.

Castelluccio di Norcia and the so-called Piano Grande and Piano Piccolo, at its feet, are the park’s most famous landmarks. These valleys were once glacial lakes and are now home to the cultivation of the famous Castelluccio lentil, among other legumes.

For just a few weeks each year, known as la fioritura, an explosion of color floods these fields thanks to the blooming of their crops.

But there is so much more to admire in this mountain range, which is perfect for hiking enthusiasts and lovers of unspoiled nature. It will leave a lasting impression on you.

When to go

Path E13 of the Sibylline Mountains

The blooming season, which takes place in June and July, transforms the landscape with stunning colors in an already beautiful natural setting, attracting hordes of tourists.

At this time of year, the landscape takes on beautiful floral hues; however, the crowds can be a nuisance. The roads are packed with cars and RVs, local accommodations become more expensive, and, worse still, they sell out well in advance.

The views are wonderful; but are you willing to pay the price?

On the other hand, during the rest of the year, the number of pilgrims declines, and the Sibillini Mountains National Park attracts a different kind of visitor: hikers and mountain bikers.

In winter, many of the trails are covered in snow, as parts of the park are located at altitudes of over 2,000 meters.

Later on, as spring begins, wildflowers start to bloom, and more trails become accessible to hikers.

We visited Castelluccio in early April 2016 . There was still snow on Mount Vettore and the surrounding peaks, as you can see in the photos. However, the weather was perfect for hiking.

Despite everything, we're looking forward to coming back in the summer to see the flowers bloom.

Directions

The piccolo piano in the Sibillini Mountains, Italy

The best way to get to this area and get around is by car— whether your own or a rental—since public transportation is limited.

If you're a mountain biking enthusiast and in great shape, you can also explore this natural park by bike.

What to bring

If you're going hiking, I recommend wearing hiking boots or comfortable walking shoes (preferably waterproof ones), a windbreaker, and a fleece jacket to keep you warm, since it gets quite windy at the top of the mountains—especially if the snow hasn't melted yet during the time of year you're visiting.

Remember to bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and a cap or hat.

Hiking and more

The nature park is full of hiking trails, most of which are well-marked. You can See more on the park's website.

Specifically, there are three types of trails:

Castelluccio di Norcia and Mount Vettore on the Piano Grande, Sibillini Mountains
  • The Great Loop of the Sibillini Mountains. This route spans 124 kilometers and is divided into 9 distinct stages. Before setting out, check the trail conditions and the availability of open mountain huts on the official website.
  • Hiking trails. These trails can be completed in a day and are mostly loop trails. We hiked the 22-kilometer E13 trail. I'll tell you all about it right now.
  • Nature trails. These trails are shorter and more accessible for casual hikers, those who are less experienced, or those with limited time.
Views from the E13 trail in the Sibillini Mountains, Italy

If you plan to hike one or more of these trails, I recommend downloading the park map —which you can find here —and the map for the specific trail you're interested in onto your phone.

You can also buy a paperback copy for a small price in the village of Castelluccio.

And if you like mountain biking, check out the many MTB trails.

Our experience with the E13

I recommend setting aside a full dayfor this loop hike (22 km) and making several stops along the way (if you have a photographer in your group, as I did, this will be a must… every five minutes!).

It starts with an ascent that begins in Castelluccio and covers an elevation gain of about 300 meters over 4 kilometers.

Throughout the journey, you’ll be able to enjoy spectacular views of Mount Vettore overlooking Castelluccio di Norcia and the Piano Grande.

The trail continues uphill until, once you reach the other side of the valley, it descends along a less well-marked (though still recognizable) path to the base of the large plateau. From there, you can go all the way around the plateau, as indicated in the original itinerary, or take a shortcut via alternative routes.

It’s hard to get lost at this point, since there’s nothing blocking the view from where you are to Castelluccio, where the route ends.

However, I recommend heading to one of the small ponds (marked on the map at the bottom of the page) if you want to see the majestic Vettore reflected in the water.

And get ready for the final climb up to the village… not bad after covering more than 20 kilometers.

In short, it’s a beautiful but challenging hike that I highly recommend. The views are breathtaking, and I imagine it must be even more spectacular during the blooming season, if that’s even possible.

Where to stay

There are many accommodation options near the park, including hotels, hostels, agritourism farms, B&Bs, campgrounds, and even free camping in designated areas. You can see where and under what conditions you can camp on this map.

We managed to stay for two nights in the village of Castellucio di Norcia itself, which turned out to be the perfect base camp for hiking the E13 trail.

Specifically, we spent two nights at the Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte, in the Belvedere room, with views of Mount Vettore.

This is a newly renovated hotel with all the amenities you could want, its own parking lot, and a fantastic restaurant. The breakfast buffet was very extensive, and the staff were attentive and friendly.

In the late afternoon, they served complimentary tea and pastries to their guests in the common lounge. They even provided free use of bicycles.

We paid €114 per couple per night for half-board (drinks not included), and I have to say that the dinners were delicious.

Nighttime photo of Castelluccio silhouetted against Mount Vettore

But this price goes up during the high season, especially during the famous flowering season.

Where to eat

For hikes, the easiest thing to do is to bring your own food, along with plenty of water. Along the E13 trail, there are a couple of drinking fountains, though I’m not sure if the same is true for the other trails.

We bought a freshly made sandwich at the small grocery store next to the parking lot in Castelluccio. The bread, as is typical throughout Umbria, was unsalted. This might seem strange to those of us who are used to salted bread; however, I assure you it pairs perfectly with the delicious cured meats produced in the region. I encourage you to give it a try!

Besides, after climbing mountains for more than 10 kilometers, what could possibly go wrong?

Reflection of Mount Vettore and Castelluccio de Norcia on a pond at Piano Grande, Italy

Our accommodation, Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte, had a restaurant, so we had dinner there both nights.

The menu included with the half-board rate was excellent, though the selection was more limited than the full menu. We tried the river trout, wild boar, and pork, as well as several soups made with local grains and legumes (the lentils are particularly famous). Everything was delicious, and once again, the service was exceptional.

Budget

  • Accommodation: €228 total, €57 per person per night (half-board).
  • Meals (other than breakfast): €34, €8.50 per person per day.
  • Activities: Hiking is free, and the bikes were provided for free. 🙂

In total, we spent €262 over two full days, which works out to €65.50 per person per day.

If you enjoy mountaineering or have the chance to visit this area in June and July, don't hesitate.

Castelluccio di Norcia and the Sibillini Mountains Natural Park will captivate you with their majestic mountains and vibrant flowers.

Useful Links

  • The park's website.
  • Trail map.
  • Agriturismo Antica Cascina Brandimarte.
  • Hotels.
  • Flight offers to Italy: Trabber, eDreams, Momondo and Vueling.
  • 5% discount on IATI insurance.

Planning a trip through Umbria and Tuscany? Then I'm sure you'll be interested in this:

  • A week's tour of Umbria.
  • Orvieto and the dying city: hypnotic beauties.
  • Perugia, the romantic capital of Umbria.
  • Assisi, much more than a city of pilgrimage.
  • Medieval times, gastronomy and cycling on Lake Trasimeno.
  • A stroll through Florence.
  • Tour of Tuscany: Siena and Val d'Orcia.
  • The roofless abbey of San Galgano.
  • The natural park of Maremma: the unspoiled beaches of Tuscany.

And if you want to see more of Italy's essentials:

  • A weekend in Rome.
  • Venice in low season.
  • Driving along Lake Como.
  • Bologna, the city of arcades.
  • The wonders of the Amalfi Coast.

And remember, if you need more information about this area, feel free to contact me—I’d be happy to help in any way I can.

Map

Posted in: Travel Tagged as: 2016, Europe, Italy, Italian Villages, Umbria, Umbria

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